Temp

Think I would dig a bit deeper in those areas to see how deep they go. Be careful you don't fall down a mine shaft or old well. Tie a bowline around your waste if you go in the trench.

Just write to the planning department quoting the planning reference number and stating you wish to withdraw your previous objection. It will need to be your other half that sends the letter.

So we are 21st out of 195 countries?

Google found this co that get quotes for you from timber frame companies. They get paid 3% by the frame co so that is probably added/hidden in the quotes they get you. They recommend using an escrow account so perhaps they know frame companies that will use escrow? I couldnt Google any. I don't know how much using escrow would add but there is probably a fee for that as well as the 3% for going through this outfit. https://timberframeexpert.co.uk/how-it-works/

Or cast a base for sun umbrella? Bucket with a pipe in the middle.

In case not obvious...the lap is determined by the batten spacing as well.

Quite interesting to read these differing opinions on the 30th aniversary of privatisation.. https://www.ciwem.org/the-environment/how-should-water-and-environmental-management-firms-tap,-retain-and-promote-female-talent#:~:text=Since privatisation%2C investment of nearly,customers world-class drinking water.

Ping @ToughButterCup see above.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-cambridgeshire-65965718 This doesn't appear to be a local supply issue but an area wide shortage of water issue. Will make it hard to meet building targets in the area.

I think the window also counts as an escape route if its not higher than the first floor.

Yes that exactly what I mean.

Perhaps when you turn off the kitchen sink cold tap a shock wave travels back through the cold main to the boiler and through the flow sensor. Does it do it if you turn off the tap really slowly? If that's OK perhaps fit an anti thump device on pipe to the tap?

What density are the blocks? Our SE wanted denser blocks used where the walls were more highly loaded.

If your name and address is on the VAT invoice its not a problem.

+1 Normally there are holes and pathways built into tracks that route water down and out. Here is an example from another manufacturer... https://www.iqglassuk.com/technical-advice/how-to-prevent-water-ingress-on-sliding-doors/s88710/

The eaves and gutter cannot overhang the boundary without permission so the wall normally has to be on your side a bit to allow for that. Many times builders just assume you have permission and start building the wall on the boundary. Would be a shame to have to take it down and rebuild if the neighbours object later, decided to take you to court for trespass or kept removing your gutters.

Internal walls don't need heat insulation so I guess you meant existing wall as distinct from new walls of the extension. Cavity wall insulation is well worth considering but i would only recommend the grey/platinum coated bead system not a loose fibre fill system. The company should also check that your bricks and the location (not exposed) won't lead to water crossing the cavity. It sounds like you are doing a renovation project? Are you living in the house? If not has it been empty for more than 2 years? If so you should only be paying 5% VAT. If you have already moved in then its too late to get 5% rating.

A typical cavity wall with no insulation has a u-value of about 1.5 W/m^2k. With 25mm of PIR insulation on the inside that improves to about 0.57 W/m^2k which isn't great but it's still a significant improvement if its your only option. I calculated 50mm instead of 25 mm would improve it to about 0.35 W/m^2k. Earlier you mentioned the walls were block-cavity-block? So presumably the outside is rendered? If the render is in good condition that reduces the risk associated with injected cavity wall insulation (water bridging the cavity). I think that would get you to about 0.25 W/m^2k perhaps a bit better.

+1 Much easier than visiting lots of bank and building societies web sites and form filling. Been a customer of HL for many years. They have good customer support as well. Either by secure messaging or on the phone.

@SteamyTea In case it helps... I discovered some but not all care home chains will allow the person to stay after the money runs out. For example Guild Care require you to show you can afford the first 3 years but you can stay after that funded by the council. Make sure to claim Attendance Allowance. Especially if she needs care at night as that's a better rate.

Ah ok. In that case many manufacturers have u-value calculators. You enter details of the wall construction and thickness of insulation and it works out a u-value for the whole wall as that's what matters for building regs... Kingspan.. https://u-valuecalculator.com/gb Celotex... https://insulation-uk.com/technical-services/tools/online-u-value-calculator This one might include aerogel blanket but I haven't tried it.. https://www.proctorgroup.com/u-value-calculator If you have a particular wall make up in mind post the details and I'm sure one of us can run the numbers for you.

Very approximately... The thermal conductivity of a material is the U-Value of a 1 meter thick layer of the insulation. So you can work out the U-Value of any thickness using.. U Value = Thermal Conductivity * 1000 / Thickness (in mm) Manufactures data sheets give more accurate data because they take into account surface effects such as that due to foil covering on PIR. In some cases manufacturers include the effect of air gaps one or both sides specified in the installation instructions!

Might work but check pipe sizes as 40mm waste isn't 40mm in diameter... https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Reducing-Coupling-Connector/dp/B07KZBDMFV/ref=asc_df_B07KZBDMFV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=372163213199&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8201592123698109016&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046819&hvtargid=pla-825949270060&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=83288553744&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=372163213199&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8201592123698109016&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046819&hvtargid=pla-825949270060 Edit: actually that says 20mm pipe not 22mm so probably won't work.

You will need planning permission for a "knock down and rebuild". Don't demolish before getting that. Likewise formally claim and be granted the CIL exemption if that exists in your area.

Perhaps something like these interlocking blocks. Once the foundations are done you don't use mortar except perhaps for the top layer.. https://www.marshalls.co.uk/commercial/product/retaining-wall-series https://www.marshalls.co.uk/commercial/product/freestanding-wall-series