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See.. Https://www.Pavingexpert.com There index is here.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex Has loads of information and specifications you can give trades to work to. Whatever you choose the absolute must is to get the sub base done right. Anyone can lay tarmac or blocks but if the sub base isn't don right it wont last and will break up and sink. These days you need planning permission for anything that's not permeable (eg standard Tarmac) unless you use linear drains etc to stop water running off site.

Perhaps take a look at the websites for insulation manufacturers. Some have guides on how to use their product on a garage conversion (which are frequently single brick).

120mm Rockwool is probably going to have similar insulating properties to 75mm PIR but will be easier to fit between studs with fewer gaps. So possibly a better result unless you do a good job of fitting the PIR without gaps.

You might get lucky with old maps and aerial photos.

Is the fall ok? Looks a bit flat in the photo?

Have you considered adding a whole new floor or using it to bargain with the planners.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/additional-storeys-extending-upwards/planning-permission

My understanding is that the accumulator can be before or after the pump... If its before the pump it's purpose is to reduce the peak flow rate required from the mains. It fills slowly and the pump empties it quickly. It needs to be large enough to cope with showers. Used when the flow rate from the mains is inadequate. A flow sensor is used to trigger the pump so it runs as soon as you turn on a tap. Can be used if more than one house is at the end of a long/narrow supply pipe. A large cold water vented tank in the loft feeding a pump is an example. If its after the pump it's normally to reduce cycling of the pump. Pump only runs when the pressure in the tank falls. So you can run a tap for a short period and the pump won't need to start. Can be used when the mains pressure is low but the flow rate is OK. Shouldn't be used if more than one house on a long/narrow supply pipe as it can rob the other house.

You won't need Building Control Approval as it's "constructed substantially of non-combustible materials". If you changed to a timber construction then you woukd require Building Control Approval.

Im going to say both. The perimeter insulation acts as a thermal break on outside walls and as an expansion gap/buffer on all walls. Without it if the slab expands there is a risk the wall can be pushed sideways. Not much but enough to crack mortar joints or the blocks.

Just checking.. So the whole floor is currently P5 chipboard over wooden joists. To which you want to add UFH and then half will be tiled and the other half will have a wood finish? Tiles need a near rigid substrate because any flexing can cause problems such as cracked tiles or cracked grout. It's commonly recommended to overboard existing floors with plywood or cement board screwed down at 150mm intervals to improve the rigidity. On really old floors with undersized joists more work might be required. Especially if you plan to tile then put a heavy kitchen on top. The foam UFH overlay board foam boards dont provide much/any extra rigidity themselves so the existing floor must provide the rigidity needed for tiles. I would ply the lot or put ply where the tiles will go and a cheaper board of the same thickness where the wood floor will go. How much insulation is under the chipboard? Ideally you need at least 120mm and many will recommed 200mm. We only have 80mm and wish we had more.

24 meters? That's going to take some finding I reckon.

Aside/OT.. I would change the layout of the doors to the master bedroom and ensuite to eliminate that little corridor as it's a waste of space? Think there are several options but perhaps..

Discuss with your BCO. I note there isn't a door between the kitchen and the hall/escape route. The BCO might have an issue with that if the window can't be used.

There is a VAT forum which appears to have some HMRC staff on it.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

You could either buy a strip of land or buy an agreement/permission for the encroachment. I'd discuss the situation with your solicitor. If the wall was entirely on your side of the boundary the neighbour would have no right to build their own extension off your wall as it wouldn't be a party wall. Eg They would have to build their own cavity wall entirely on their side taking up at perhaps 300mm of space. So there is some room for negotiation if they want to build their own. For example if they give you permission for the encroachment you could agree it's a party wall allowing them to build off, saving them probably 150mm.

My builder said you can build anything given enough money. What's the construction? If its block and block with outside rendered it might be possible. I'm thinking build a new inner leaf (on a beam if the foundations aren't wide enough?), demolish the existing outer leaf and render what is now the new outer leaf. Make sure to sort out the thermal bridge at corners.

Are they on this boundary? Do the neighbours want to build a matching extension? You could allow them to build off the leaf that's on their side.

Over the years I've made 4 or 5 complaints to the advertising standards authority (not about Octapus!) and they have taken action each time. They anonymise complaints so the company doesn't get to see your name and they do eventually tell you the outcome.

If the breather membrane is vapour permeable the (normally 50mm) ventilated gap isn't so critical...at least not on a tiled roof. Might be more so on a sheet metal roof.

This page on slurry bonding from the Paving Experts also worth a read.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/bond_bridge_01

Mortar just doesn't seem to stick to some stone very well without it. Not a great example but..

Plus one for the real thing but bear in mind they aren't suitable for sitting/playing on as they can leach tar and oil.

I've started using Ultra Scape Pro Prime to repair loose india stone originally stuck with unknown slurry.

I suspect the professional companies that do insulation removal have figured out a way.

Not sure about Ireland but in England the water co own the bit from the main to your property boundary so they get to do the connection for you.