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Just checking.. So the whole floor is currently P5 chipboard over wooden joists. To which you want to add UFH and then half will be tiled and the other half will have a wood finish? Tiles need a near rigid substrate because any flexing can cause problems such as cracked tiles or cracked grout. It's commonly recommended to overboard existing floors with plywood or cement board screwed down at 150mm intervals to improve the rigidity. On really old floors with undersized joists more work might be required. Especially if you plan to tile then put a heavy kitchen on top. The foam UFH overlay board foam boards dont provide much/any extra rigidity themselves so the existing floor must provide the rigidity needed for tiles. I would ply the lot or put ply where the tiles will go and a cheaper board of the same thickness where the wood floor will go. How much insulation is under the chipboard? Ideally you need at least 120mm and many will recommed 200mm. We only have 80mm and wish we had more.

24 meters? That's going to take some finding I reckon.

Aside/OT.. I would change the layout of the doors to the master bedroom and ensuite to eliminate that little corridor as it's a waste of space? Think there are several options but perhaps..

Discuss with your BCO. I note there isn't a door between the kitchen and the hall/escape route. The BCO might have an issue with that if the window can't be used.

There is a VAT forum which appears to have some HMRC staff on it.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

You could either buy a strip of land or buy an agreement/permission for the encroachment. I'd discuss the situation with your solicitor. If the wall was entirely on your side of the boundary the neighbour would have no right to build their own extension off your wall as it wouldn't be a party wall. Eg They would have to build their own cavity wall entirely on their side taking up at perhaps 300mm of space. So there is some room for negotiation if they want to build their own. For example if they give you permission for the encroachment you could agree it's a party wall allowing them to build off, saving them probably 150mm.

My builder said you can build anything given enough money. What's the construction? If its block and block with outside rendered it might be possible. I'm thinking build a new inner leaf (on a beam if the foundations aren't wide enough?), demolish the existing outer leaf and render what is now the new outer leaf. Make sure to sort out the thermal bridge at corners.

Are they on this boundary? Do the neighbours want to build a matching extension? You could allow them to build off the leaf that's on their side.

Over the years I've made 4 or 5 complaints to the advertising standards authority (not about Octapus!) and they have taken action each time. They anonymise complaints so the company doesn't get to see your name and they do eventually tell you the outcome.

If the breather membrane is vapour permeable the (normally 50mm) ventilated gap isn't so critical...at least not on a tiled roof. Might be more so on a sheet metal roof.

This page on slurry bonding from the Paving Experts also worth a read.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/bond_bridge_01

Mortar just doesn't seem to stick to some stone very well without it. Not a great example but..

Plus one for the real thing but bear in mind they aren't suitable for sitting/playing on as they can leach tar and oil.

I've started using Ultra Scape Pro Prime to repair loose india stone originally stuck with unknown slurry.

I suspect the professional companies that do insulation removal have figured out a way.

Not sure about Ireland but in England the water co own the bit from the main to your property boundary so they get to do the connection for you.

@TonyT See the OP. This thread is about preserving PP from the "must start within 3 years" condition. The stuff you mention will be relevant once the OP starts building in several years time but now they need the BCO to confirm work has started for the Planners.

It only applies to ground floor windows where there is a height difference of more than 600mm between inside and outside. See table 3.1.

From what I can see... ADK (Protection from Falling) - Min height of windows 800mm. ADB (Escape from Fire) - Max height 1.1m of escape windows. ADO (Overheating) - No max/min but to count towards your overheating mitigation strategy any window that opens more than 100mm must have guarding to 1.1m and meet other rules in para 3.9. So you can still have 800mm high openers if you fit 100mm restrictors.

So was it empty for more than 10 years?

I might be wrong but I think you can only reclaim the vat on items you purchase yourself under the >10 year scheme.

The government have two different schemes to encourage empty houses to be refurbished. Depends how long they have been empty/unoccupied: https://www.no-use-empty.org.uk/advice-and-guidance/property-tax-and-vat/reduced-vat-schemes/ So if your place has been empty >2 years any trades you hire to do renovation work should only charge you 5% not 20%. Make this clear to them when they come to quote and get them to amend any quotes that say +20% vat. If they question it refer them to VAT 708. Make sure they are VAT registered. There are also reduced rate VAT for energy saving things. These apply even if its not been empty >2 years..

I can't quite work out which direction you want the new driveway to run but best try and keep it away from the corner as much as possible and "conventional" in orientation. Perhaps have it aligned with your front door? You will need to make a Dropped Kerb Application. This doesn't just get permission for a dropped kerb but also the permission needed to drive over the footpath.

Why is it non-dischargable?

I asked on Quora and someone replied that the 15m distance came from BS 6297 which I've not seen. Apparently its to do with the risk of a flooded drainage field getting into the building causing a health hazard. So on that basis I would suggest you don't need to consider overhanging parts of the building. The responder also reminded me that the Approved Documents aren't the law but represent one way of demonstrating compliance with the Building Regulations Act. So it's upto the BCO to determine if an alternative proposal also meets the Act. I would try explaining to the BCO that your drainage field will be 15m from any part of the building that could be affected by the drainage area flooding which you understand to be the intent of this part of Approved Document H and BS 6297. Ideally a drainage field would also be down slope from the building?