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Presumably since ASHP are on the list of ESM it might be possible for one company to sell an ASHP and Battery to a customer that already has solar.

https://solarenergyuk.org/resource/vat-on-solar-and-battery-storage/

I suspect its more common than you think. Our house is on a slope so the inside is on three levels. I just realised one of our windows that looks down the slope is caught by this. Good job the BCO didn't spot it when built in 2007.

I would measure from existing floor level upstairs to the underside of your soffit. Then subtract 388 to 400mm for the following.. 150mm - upstand for flashing the flat roof to the wall. 25mm - Waterproof layer and 18mm OSB. 50mm - Ventilated air gap 150mm - PIR Insulation between rafters. 1mm - Vapour barrier 12mm - Plasterboard. Total 388mm See what that gives you. If its less than about 2.25m you might need to look at trading off headroom downstairs by lowering the first floor so there would be a step down from the bedroom into the ensuite.

The vast majority of velux like windows will work on your roof pitch. Some can go in roofs from 10 to 90 degrees. Most are designed around a rectangular wood frame fixed to the roof. They are measured to the outside edge of this wood frame (not the inside dimensions). The height of this frame above the outer face of the tile batten may matter. The gap between the outer edge of the frame and the tiles may matter.

Some modern rads have central connections but I'm not sure if they work the way you describe... https://www.bestheating.com/milano-skye-white-horizontal-aluminium-designer-radiator-single-panel-600mm-tall-choice-of-width-92488?gclid=CjwKCAjwh8mlBhB_EiwAsztdBKQbrMZWfgsMORV6aN6c_j-vIT81XcjPEsi1ckIw7rMbOGPebLJvtBoCQ4UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.merriottuk.com/product/centre-tap/

Fix the bit of wood to the back of the small door so it hinges up with it?

We put gravel over stone and the bigger stones migrates up through it.

Yeah I realise that but I think a flat roof extension at the front would look horrible. And the ceiling height upstairs too low? Would have to be below existing eaves?

Im thinking you might get PP for something like this but not sure if the dimensions work.. Perhaps a double width window instead of the single Ive shown?

I'm afraid I think it would look horrible, especially with a flat roof. I think a single storey with pitch roof sloping from the back down to the front might just look ok but would block part of the window to your stairs.

Can you fit a strip of wood on the inside to change the gap from black to wood colour? Then it will match the other gaps.

See.. Https://www.Pavingexpert.com There index is here.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex Has loads of information and specifications you can give trades to work to. Whatever you choose the absolute must is to get the sub base done right. Anyone can lay tarmac or blocks but if the sub base isn't don right it wont last and will break up and sink. These days you need planning permission for anything that's not permeable (eg standard Tarmac) unless you use linear drains etc to stop water running off site.

Perhaps take a look at the websites for insulation manufacturers. Some have guides on how to use their product on a garage conversion (which are frequently single brick).

120mm Rockwool is probably going to have similar insulating properties to 75mm PIR but will be easier to fit between studs with fewer gaps. So possibly a better result unless you do a good job of fitting the PIR without gaps.

You might get lucky with old maps and aerial photos.

Is the fall ok? Looks a bit flat in the photo?

Have you considered adding a whole new floor or using it to bargain with the planners.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/additional-storeys-extending-upwards/planning-permission

My understanding is that the accumulator can be before or after the pump... If its before the pump it's purpose is to reduce the peak flow rate required from the mains. It fills slowly and the pump empties it quickly. It needs to be large enough to cope with showers. Used when the flow rate from the mains is inadequate. A flow sensor is used to trigger the pump so it runs as soon as you turn on a tap. Can be used if more than one house is at the end of a long/narrow supply pipe. A large cold water vented tank in the loft feeding a pump is an example. If its after the pump it's normally to reduce cycling of the pump. Pump only runs when the pressure in the tank falls. So you can run a tap for a short period and the pump won't need to start. Can be used when the mains pressure is low but the flow rate is OK. Shouldn't be used if more than one house on a long/narrow supply pipe as it can rob the other house.

You won't need Building Control Approval as it's "constructed substantially of non-combustible materials". If you changed to a timber construction then you woukd require Building Control Approval.

Im going to say both. The perimeter insulation acts as a thermal break on outside walls and as an expansion gap/buffer on all walls. Without it if the slab expands there is a risk the wall can be pushed sideways. Not much but enough to crack mortar joints or the blocks.

Just checking.. So the whole floor is currently P5 chipboard over wooden joists. To which you want to add UFH and then half will be tiled and the other half will have a wood finish? Tiles need a near rigid substrate because any flexing can cause problems such as cracked tiles or cracked grout. It's commonly recommended to overboard existing floors with plywood or cement board screwed down at 150mm intervals to improve the rigidity. On really old floors with undersized joists more work might be required. Especially if you plan to tile then put a heavy kitchen on top. The foam UFH overlay board foam boards dont provide much/any extra rigidity themselves so the existing floor must provide the rigidity needed for tiles. I would ply the lot or put ply where the tiles will go and a cheaper board of the same thickness where the wood floor will go. How much insulation is under the chipboard? Ideally you need at least 120mm and many will recommed 200mm. We only have 80mm and wish we had more.

24 meters? That's going to take some finding I reckon.

Aside/OT.. I would change the layout of the doors to the master bedroom and ensuite to eliminate that little corridor as it's a waste of space? Think there are several options but perhaps..

Discuss with your BCO. I note there isn't a door between the kitchen and the hall/escape route. The BCO might have an issue with that if the window can't be used.