Temp

£66 a bottle. Might be worth it though.

Not yet ! Have tried white spirt though.

In areas that have got the issue sorted you have to buy "credits". This money goes to setting up wetlands to mitigate the effects of your poo etc. Not sure what the going rate is? £6,000? If you do a knock down and rebuild I guess you might not have to pay? Oh and if the CIL is a thing in your area make sure you formally claim the self build exemption after getting PP or you loose it and become liable to pay it. In some cases you might even want life insurance because if you drop down dead you can't live in the house for the 3 years needed to keep the exemption. Have we put you off yet 🙂

In case others read this in the future.. It's important not to move in until you have started work on the renovation. My understanding is the moment you move in the reduced rating is lost. However you can move in after work has started. It sounds like you are OK because you've already had a builder do work before you move in. If they are VAT registered their labour and material should be 5% rated to you exactly as per your builder. You have to persuade them that's correct by referring them to VAT 708. In some cases giving them a homemade "certificate" may help. This is essentially a letter formally certifying that their work is on a qualifying dwelling under VAT 708. If they aren't VAT registered they won't be charging you VAT whatever it actually says on their invoice. So there is no VAT to be reduced to 5%. I don't think it matters much who buys materials because neither you or the trade can reclaim the 20% VAT paid. I think VAT431C only covers the 10 year 0% scheme not the 2 year 5% scheme. In practice both may quote you about the same so you really want VAT registered trades and get them to 5% rate it.

OK so in Volume 2 it says.. So it's clear ! The Building Regulations say its not a Dwelling or a Room for Residential Purpose. Volume 1 only applies to Dwellings. Volume 2 only applies to Rooms for Residential Purpose (or buildings containing Rooms for Residential Purpose). So neither volume 1 or 2 applies to a garage or workshop. Sorry for all the edits.

On the other hand... https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/2214/regulation/2/made So it's not even a room for residential purposes.

With reference to my post above about the Application of Volume 1... I think what you need to meet is Table 4.1 in Volume 2 "Buildings other than dwellings" (not Table 4.2 in Volume 1) https://www.planningportal.co.uk/applications/building-control-applications/building-control/approved-documents/part-l-conservation-of-fuel-and-power/approved-document-l-conservation-of-fuel-and-power-volume-2-buildings-other-than-dwellings That says new walls should have a u-value of 0.26 W/(m^2.k).

Not even that. The 15 and 30sqm limits are BC only. For Planning/permitted development you are PDR until half the original land is built on.

My bold.

So way back in 2006 our builder fitted sealed units into our wood window frames. They used a low modulus sealer of some sort to seal the glass into the frame, did a neat job and wiped off any squeeze out. However the sealer left a residue on the wood that is still haunting us today. No matter how many times I sand and wipe down with meths I can't stop getting fish eye when using Sadolins. Im repainting a windows at the moment and had sanded and wiped one area three times and still it's like painting a wax candle in a few spots. So if you are about to fit windows I strongly recommend using a paintable sealer or mask off the wood until its fully dry to prevent issues with squeeze out forever contaminating the wood. If anyone knows of a clear primer or similar that solves this let me know!

Presumably the BCO wants 150mm cavity so it can have 100mm insulation and 50mm cavity. If the outside is rendered you could probably fully fill your 100mm cavity and keep the BCO happy. Just a thought.

What I would do... Slope the top of the post 1 so rain runs off. Fix 2 to 1 with screws, but recess the heads and fill with dowel to simulate pegs. Notch 3 to fit 2. Screw 3 to 1. Don't screw down through 3 into 2 to avoids holes in horizontal surfaces. Ideally slope/bevel all top edges but that needs a table saw.

We've got a slider but only because it was the best solution to a space issue. Avoid if possible, especially on any door that is frequently used like a kitchen door. They are far more awkward to use quickly, harder to accelerate the door, then harder to slow it down to a stop without crashing into the buffer. You will end up leaving them open. The door must also be wider for the same opening width because not all of the door can go into the pocket. Door handles need to be tall rather than wide or they also make the door even bigger. Need to be chosen when the door is installed and adjusted, possibly before plasterboarding the frame.

To my eye.. the planners would consider that the front garden. If you just look at the house without taking into account its surroundings.. which elevation looks like the front? If it wasn't obvious would you really go looking for the front door behind the garage?

Presumably since ASHP are on the list of ESM it might be possible for one company to sell an ASHP and Battery to a customer that already has solar.

https://solarenergyuk.org/resource/vat-on-solar-and-battery-storage/

I suspect its more common than you think. Our house is on a slope so the inside is on three levels. I just realised one of our windows that looks down the slope is caught by this. Good job the BCO didn't spot it when built in 2007.

I would measure from existing floor level upstairs to the underside of your soffit. Then subtract 388 to 400mm for the following.. 150mm - upstand for flashing the flat roof to the wall. 25mm - Waterproof layer and 18mm OSB. 50mm - Ventilated air gap 150mm - PIR Insulation between rafters. 1mm - Vapour barrier 12mm - Plasterboard. Total 388mm See what that gives you. If its less than about 2.25m you might need to look at trading off headroom downstairs by lowering the first floor so there would be a step down from the bedroom into the ensuite.

The vast majority of velux like windows will work on your roof pitch. Some can go in roofs from 10 to 90 degrees. Most are designed around a rectangular wood frame fixed to the roof. They are measured to the outside edge of this wood frame (not the inside dimensions). The height of this frame above the outer face of the tile batten may matter. The gap between the outer edge of the frame and the tiles may matter.

Some modern rads have central connections but I'm not sure if they work the way you describe... https://www.bestheating.com/milano-skye-white-horizontal-aluminium-designer-radiator-single-panel-600mm-tall-choice-of-width-92488?gclid=CjwKCAjwh8mlBhB_EiwAsztdBKQbrMZWfgsMORV6aN6c_j-vIT81XcjPEsi1ckIw7rMbOGPebLJvtBoCQ4UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.merriottuk.com/product/centre-tap/

Fix the bit of wood to the back of the small door so it hinges up with it?

We put gravel over stone and the bigger stones migrates up through it.

Yeah I realise that but I think a flat roof extension at the front would look horrible. And the ceiling height upstairs too low? Would have to be below existing eaves?

Im thinking you might get PP for something like this but not sure if the dimensions work.. Perhaps a double width window instead of the single Ive shown?

I'm afraid I think it would look horrible, especially with a flat roof. I think a single storey with pitch roof sloping from the back down to the front might just look ok but would block part of the window to your stairs.