Temp

+1 Should be zero rated to you. (eg not charged to you and then reclaimed). It comes under .. VAT 708 https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction 3.3.4 Work closely connected to the construction of the building (b) produces works that allow the building to be used, such as works in connection with:

Whatever you install you should installed a wired CAT 6 network as well. That's what the conduit is for in that datalight system you linked to. Their face plates have two wired and two fiber ports. My guess is you will never use the fibre ports as everything these days is either wired or wifi. There are so few people with fibre in their house that I doubt anyone is making TV with a fibre port on it.

If it's a new build check their address including number is offered when you type their postcode into one of the websites that does address lookups. If not then they need to get that sorted by the council or they may also have issues with other utilities. Looks like about 6 weeks since they first contacted BT. They seem to be in the same state we were after that time. Might still have four weeks to go if our experience is typical. Next time you speak to BT make sure they know the line is for a vunerable person with medical issues and they can't even make emergency voice calls. Broadband is very unlikely to work until voice is working so keep stressing they can't make voice calls so that they keep the right department working on the problem. You could also try reporting it as a faulty line. However I think they want £125(?) deposit to get an engineer to look at it. If no fault found you loose the money.

Just make sure your finger isn't in the recessed handle as the door goes into the pocket.

I think this is a bit of a grey area and a bit of a balls up on the part of the planners not removing permitted development rights. I know your situation is different but had it been a new house... http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/New-houses-and-PD.php Selected quotes.. "The property does not enjoy any PD rights until the approved scheme has been implemented. Therefore you cannot really submit a Planning application or a Certificate of Lawful Development until such time a physical property exists on the site and you have legally implemented the previous Planning Approval." "Many Councils have formulated their own interpretation of when this point is (i.e. when the dwelling actually exists and is capable of receiving further applications for PD or Planning). I have heard cases from one extreme to another. One Local Planning Authority insisted to a client that it should be finished and occupied for 2 years whilst another felt that the installation of the foundations was enough to have implemented the approval & physical dwelling. " "Our interpretation of the formal 'birth point' of a new dwelling for adding Permitted Development extensions (and a certificate of lawful development application) is when the 'majority' of the framework of the building has been installed (i.e. - all of its volume). " "I would also go further & suggest that you make sure that it is water tight and most importantly you have discharged ALL of the Planning Conditions required prior to development taking place on the site. If you do not do this you leave yourself wide open to the Council suggesting that the scheme has not yet been fully implemented due to the non-compliance of the Conditions and, as such, you have illegal building works until such times the Conditions are complied with - trust me - it has happened before!"

No worries. Loft aerials can work fine. I'm using one as not too far from sandy heath. Had to remove some foil from the loft insulation though.

That link is to a trap. So no extra trap needed Google Top access shower traps.

+1 Only things detailed on a landscaping plan can be reclaimed.

First find out which transmitter you should point at and how far away it is. That info is used to workout what type and size of aerial you need. Also how high it needs to be. Boosters are the devil's work. If you are in a poor signal area you need a big aerial as high as possible. If that's still not getting a signal the answer might be a mast head amp. If you want to feed several TV sets you need a distribution amplifier which doesn't really need to boost the signal massively.

Might have to copy and paste that link.

More from google.. https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/12007/master_Mal%E9n_Joni_2013.pdf?sequence=1 Which suggests relocating the inverter or perhaps even mounting it to the wall in a different way can effect the noise produced.

Many power supplies including those in a PC or laptop use high frequency switching. Usually it's above 20kHz to try and prevent it being audible. Explains why only kids might hear it. You might be able to google the make and model to find out what your uses. Sometimes it's more audible on one example than another so switching the inverter might help, but could conceivably make it worse. Occasionally manufacturers have an issue with a component like a capacitor vibrating and will use some hot melt glue to stick it to another component or the pcb to try and prevent it. I don't recommend doing this yourself for a bunch of safety reasons. eg could cause overheating, fire etc PS: Sometimes the switching frequency is modulated by the load and that can make it even more annoying (You could conceivably make it play tunes not that this helps any).

I read that DiseqC switches are normally backwards compatible with older LNB - but it suggests there can be compatibility issues.

Using www.Fast.com I get 49Mbps to a reasonably modern PC over wire and 44-46 Mbps to an old Android Tablet over wire and Wifi , 38-40Mbps to a moto G5 over wire and wifi. Perhaps not the greatest test but that's about the limit of our fibre and wire connection.

There are mushroom vents but you don't really want those cluttering up the deck. I would switch to a "warm roof" (insulation above the structural elements) if possible but the increased thickness might be an issue?

You may not need anyone to do the drainage design, at least not for planning purposes. You might be able to write it up yourself but it depends on a few things.. Is there a sewer in the road? In which case you might only need to say: "Foul drainage will be connected to the main sewer in the road, details to be agreed with Building Control". If there isn't easy access to a sewer then they will want details of the sewerage treatment plant you propose to use. There are people on this forum that can probably recommend one. What sort of soil do you have and do you know if soakaways work? On free draining soil you might get away with saying that "The ground is free draining and rainwater will be discharged to soakaways, dimensions and locations to be agreed with Building Control". If you are on clay or soil that's not free draining you might need to prove that soakaways will work. This is usually done by doing a "percolation test" which involves digging a hole and filling it with water. There are "site investigation" or "ground works" companies that will do this. If you also need a "soil condition report" to design the foundations you can save money by employing the same company to do both at once. Can also save money if you provide the digger and driver. So best case you might only need to write a short letter to satisfy the planners and more details for Building Control later.

Thanks. At the moment I have a Billion BiPack 8800NL router (with internal wifi) and a pair of DrayTek AP 800's. All connected together by wire and a Netgear switch. All same network, no subnets. All IP addresses mobile or wired are allocated by DHCP in the router. Doesn't look like any of this kit supports 802.11r but as it all works very well otherwise I guess I can live without the seamless roaming. I reverted to different SSID when I couldn't get the seamless roaming to work. Aside: The wifi in the Billion router seems good considering it doesn't have an external antenna. Better than the Draytek or Linksys stuff I've had previously.

Make bread dough and get yourself some bamboo poles. Wind strips of dough around the ends and toast over the fire. One hand for the pole, the other for a cold beer.

Never measured the humidity in our house but it only seems too dry in winter (which is when humidity is lowest outdoors I think).

I have several WiFi access points in my house. In theory it's possible to set them all up with the same SSID so that you can walk around the house while streaming music to your phone. Ive never managed to get his to work. Has anyone? Typically mobile devices will log into the strongest signal and stay logged into that one unless you manually switch or stop and restart streaming. Not really a big issue but would be nice to know if anyone has done this.

Bit of black electrical tape fixes that :-)

It would be tempting to over fill with insulation (horizontal sheets without foil) and run a hot wire down the rafters.

I once ran out of diesel and used petrol to get a bonfire going. Big mistake. The petrol trickles down through the wood evaporating as it goes. You end up with a mix of fuel and air also known as a fuel-air-bomb or Thermobaric weapon... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermobaric_weapon . The blast was quite impressive. My eyebrows have grown back so I look like Dennis Healy. I recommend waiting a few weeks after its been cut for all/any green leaf to dry out. It will burn more easily with less smoke.

That means they probably have at least outline planning permission. Worth getting that and any other documentation from the planners web site if you haven't already to see if there are any novel planning conditions. You could also consider getting things like a copy of the title deeds from the land registry web site (beware fake web sites). If the land already has an address it's only a few £ and you get it instantly by email. This would include details of any covenants. I suspect the land might not have been divided up yet so the site plan might not tell you much about the plots. If the access road is going to be adopted by the council in the future it will have to be constructed to a certain standard. In some areas it's common for councils to want to wait a year after completion before they will adopt the road. This isn't really something to get too concerned about but you might keep any eye out for it being mentioned in paperwork or get your solicitor to see if there is anything in the sales contract. For example if they are building it now then you can expect kerbs to be damaged by delivery lorries (yours or to other plots) during construction. Lots of mud on the tarmac etc. Ideally the developer should be liable for fixing all this so its in a fit state to be adopted at some point in the future. On the mortgage... If you are using a mix of cash and mortgage think about which to spend first. For example many mortgage companies release money at fixed stages. If you spend all your cash on the plot then you are tied into the payment schedule the mortgage company wants during the build. If you can use mortgage money to buy the plot and retain cash for the build then you have a great deal more flexibility. The down side is you start paying interest sooner. Some combination or middle way might be best. Sorry if this is obvious but whatever payment schedule the mortgage company insist on you want to agree a similar schedule with the builder. Ideally you want payments to the builder to lag behind the mortgage but be aware some lenders only pay in arrears. eg they only pay out for a stage once that stage is finished. I'm not sure how many lenders will lend against the plot but perhaps others can comment. Consider agreeing to retain a percentage of the build cost for up to a year after completion for snagging etc Our builder allowed us to retain a percentage of each stage payment. On the design front.. Have a think about fitting some sort of whole house vent system with heat recovery. These are becoming increasingly popular with self builders. Allows you to have good ventilation in your well sealed/insulated house without the heat loss of trickle vents.

50 page thread here on that saga.. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9305&page=1 Latest is the neighbour was ordered (?) to raise the height of their chimney but they/the court want Mikee to sign a Tomlin Order which as I understand it amounts to an acceptance of the solution. This is discussed at the end of the thread currently page 54.