Temp

Here you go... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/60/consent_types/14

I think a "notification of tree works" is required for all trees in a conservation area (if the trunk diameter is over 75mm).

BBC report that a combination thought to be ok has failed test in Dubai... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-44748514

You could mesh and render right over the lead on the face but I wasn't sure how to do the corner where you have that small flap/triangle of lead. With a stop bead that bit of lead comes out from under the bead. If you render down to that triangle of lead and the lead moves I thought the render might crack in that area.

Just a check but... Are there soakers under the lead and slate?

I'm thinking put the bottom of the stop bead about here...

+1 I think in this case you could find a stop bead with a wide mesh (or separate mesh) and fit that lower down so the mesh covers the lead. Would need to use stainless steel screws and SS or lead washers to fix the mesh through the flashing into the brick before rendering. Google found photos of something similar.. https://www.yelp.co.uk/biz_photos/ben-hockey-roofing-chalvington?select=_LLkfuZwwPUKDobw-N4RiQ

Black circles work same way as Asda and similar prices. Sometimes one is cheaper depending on make. I usually compare both because sometimes one of them will have an additional discount on 4 tyres.

+1 to it being vapour permeable/breathable. Check if the membrane is allowed to be installed in contact with the insulation. Not all manufacturers allow this. If they do then I'd put it under the counter battens in contact with the PIR. Otherwise put it above the counter battens with a gap below. This gap does NOT need to be ventilated like a cold roof construction. The membrane should be allowed to drape between the counter battens so it's not in contact with the underside of the tile battens. This is done to allow water blown under the tiles to drain down the membrane. If there is no drape water can pool above the horizontal tile battens causing them to rot. Vapour barrier on the warm/inside of the insulation. Fit as much insulation as you can. It will help keep the rooms in the roof cooler in summer.

Perhaps put some gravel around the water pipe so the water from the spring follows it off site.

Welcome to the forum. Thought a heads up on VAT might be in order... If building three houses you won't be able to use the self build VAT reclaim scheme for all of them because it's only available to people building their own house to live in themselves. The houses will still qualify for zero rating but you would have to use a VAT registered builder and get him to by all the materials. You couldn't use subcontractors and buy materials yourself unless you have another mean of reclaiming the VAT on the materials.

You've got some nice looking young trees in the background, will you be able to keep them?

This is the sort of pump I've used. Got it in Belgium when we lived over there. Some come with plastic parts rather than stainless steel. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-pressure-best-brand-stainless-steel_60488160410.html

Your pump will need to be capable of a "negative head" of at least a few meters (height of bank + bit). Some care is needed to get the right pressure and flow rate if you plan to connect the pump directly to the sprinkler. Personally I would go for a pump with a bladder tank built in but they are a bit more expensive. They switch on an off automatically as the pressure in the tank varies. Typically they have the pump mounted on the metal casing of the bladder tank and it's easy to mount a filter to the input. Hoselock do one (without a bladder tank?) but I've never used one.. .

Perhaps worth pointing out that if you get it wrong your hob might produce a lot of carbon monoxide.

This explains what the numbers mean but i think you need to look up the numbers your appliance needs for lpg. https://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/How-to-choose-Jet-Nozzle-for-your-gas-appliance-/10000000202400690/g.html There is a post here... https://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19031.0 That says the number for lpg should be 65-70% of that for natural gas.

The doors on most caravans I've seen are on the sides rather than the ends :-)

PS: Think our turf cost us £2500 and the water was about £10-15 a day for nearly two weeks.

Not sure of the pressure but I'd say it's a bit above average. We can get >40L/min in the main bathroom with everything open. We have a 25mm main to the house, and from there to the outside tap we have a run of about 15ft in 15mm copper. We also had an underground rainwater tank available that holds a few thousand liters but that only lasted 1 day watering the turf. The combination of sun and wind meant the turf started to shrink if left unwatered for more than an hour so it was a constant battle to move the sprinklers around fast enough.

We tried connecting three Hoselock sprinklers to one tap but was limited by the flow rate we could get out of it. The third one didn't really increase the area being watered as the pressure dropped on the first two. Very nearly lost a lot of turf simply because we couldn't water it fast enough.

As I understand it repairs (for example after a flood or storm that rips off the roof) are generally liable for VAT that can't be reclaimed by anyone. The only way VAT could be reclaimed is if the house was so badly damaged it had to be demolished and rebuilt.

About 30 mins.

The sheds have given up on the quality/custom end of the market. They just want to shift easy to sell stuff like homewares, surprised they sell kitchens at all these days. Got our latest washing machine from AO. They delivered it next day which was a Sunday. They would have unpacked it and installed it had we wanted. They took away the old one. There aren't many built in microwave ovens (according to our kitchen supplier) and they are more expensive. Ours is a Neff. Our Bosch dishwasher has given good services. Currently 11 years old. Had to replace a heater last year but Bosch parts are easy to get.

You don't necessarily need a motorized cutter for wall tiles but maybe for thicker floor tiles. Iv done a bathroom just using a hand score and snap type cutter. Much less mess. I have a water lubricated cutter now and it has to be used outdoors and you get soaked.

Find out if what you want needs planning permission (PP). It's not always obvious. You could do your own rough sketch plan and post it on this forum for comment. Even if PP is needed you may not need an architect. With care it's possible to make your own scale drawings and do your own planning application. If you can't make scale drawings then an Architectural Technician might be cheaper than an Architect. For a simple box extension on side or back a good builder could work from the planning drawings. Building Control would definitely need to be involved but they may agree to do it on a "Building Notice" rather than require "Full Plans Approval". A builder should be able to estimate the total cost from a back of the envelope sketch with dimensions and a site visit to check for any issues (like manholes to move or build over). Get him to do a proper quote when you have planning permission or better drawings.