Temp

I'm considering making a backlight for a fused glass art panel. Main concern is how to get a uniform level of illumination without spending a lot of time experimenting with led strips, reflective sheets and diffusers. It occurs to me I might be able to modify an LED flat panel ceiling light. I know some of you have tried them. Can you see the individual LEDs throughout the diffuser or are they pretty uniform?

The link newhome posted is the guide for builders and sub contractors that might do work on new houses... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction Tells them if they should charge you VAT (usually not). Typically... You should not pay VAT on services or labor. Should pay VAT on materials and reclaim it. If someone does both (supply materials and fit them on one invoice) then all of it should be zero rated to you.

Pretty sure electrical screws are 3.5mm. If you get stuck these are 50p each. Collection from store, shipping to me would be £9 ! https://www.ccmsupplies.co.uk/m35-x-100mm-socket-screw.html You can also get "3.5mm Socket Screw Extension studs" https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p79641

Do PV panels run hotter if you don't draw all the power they can deliver? The law of conservation of energy suggests there must be an energy balance. eg If the panels operate at a constant temperature then the power going in must equal that coming out. If you don't draw energy from them in the form of electricity it must come out as heat (unless they somehow become more reflective).

Try local hire companies. If really stuck Google found... https://www.roadplatehire.co.uk/

I'm sure it's against the law to mention Ch.....as before the beginning of December. If it isn't it should be.

Hope you aren't hungry. This popped up in my news feed. It's an article about free Dominoes Pizza from the UK Daily Fail... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-6161905/Dominos-giving-away-free-pizza-entire-WEEK.html Collect only from Australia ! Bastards ! Could have used them as pad stones.

In the manual for the E version here.. http://www.wundafloorheating.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/E02-generic-E91-touch-screen-Stat-27-4-2018.pdf It says.. "7RLE Not available on this model. Potential free output and main output synchronous/ asynchronous direction" and "Do not adjust KEEP FACTORY SETTING = 00" So the E version might not be able to do volt (aka Potential) free? Best give them a call to check you have right version. Perhaps their set up doesn't need/use volt free stats?

I couldn't find the W91-713 only the E91-713 on their web site. However I wonder if the W is for wet and E is for Electric... Elsewhere Google found.. http://www.tpsthermalcontrols.com/products/57/

Not certain but I think the boiler/ASHP, all pumps and stats etc should be powered from one fused spur near the boiler. If the FSU isn't near the boiler I think you need a plaque near the boiler stating where the FSU is located. You never want to have a situation where the service man flips off the FSU only to find the stats are still live. How many manifolds do you have? If more than one you might need to OR together the two "Boiler Enable" (BE) signals to produce one BE in a way that doesn't cause interaction. If just connected together you might find the pumps on both manifolds start when only one is calling for heat. Depends how the wiring centre is designed. I had to use relays but then my system was a different make.

Perhaps I'm wrong but... Directors are normally considered employees of the company. If the company does work on the directors house I guess that would be a benefit in kind liable to tax (and NI?). So the director would need to pay the company for their services. Would getting the money back out of the company be difficult? Taxed? Dividend tax? Income tax?

Yes and No. Others have mentioned the need for something >12mm thick under the stove to form a step. This is to discourage rugs and mats being placed too close. What you can do is run the tiles as planned then put a sheet of say 20mm granite or glass on top. I visited a local monumental mason and had a wander around his yard. Found some gloss black granite left over from a kitchen work top job. I took him a plywood template and he cut the granite to the required shape and honed off the gloss finish to leave a nice matt surface. Looks great and doesn't mark or stain like slate can. As mentioned in the link Oneoff posted... The granite must project in front of the stove around 300mm and probably to the sides as well, so it will be a T shape. See left hand side of Diagram 26 in Approved Document J. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468872/ADJ_LOCKED.pdf Beware that people will occasionally stand on the corners so make sure they are well supported by your floor to avoid it cracking. As ProDave said... Your stove must be "certified not to increase the temperature of the hearth more than 100C". If yours isn't certified you will need a constructional hearth which is something like a 225mm thick slab of concrete in the floor that you may not have/want. If you really want to DIY the stove install then you will also need to produce and fit a small ratings plaque to impress the BCO. See Diagram 16 page 28. Even then the BCO might want a HETAS man to sign it off.

It says LED bulbs but not sure if that means they are replaceable. The AliExpress price is so good I would order some complete spares.

If there is one my money would be on the switch in the motorised valve. The valves leak and water seems to get into the end of travel switch that controls the boiler. So what could happen is the stat calls for heat, the motorised valve moves and operates the switch and trips out the RCD. Thiscisnt your problem but the switches can also fail so they don't make proper contact. In that case the stat clicks but the signal doesn't get to the boiler and the boiler doesn't fire up.

Who would complain if the wire suffered accidental damage this winter?

Perhaps to do with corrosion of the rebar in the beams? Everywhere says it must be ventilated (telescopic vent every 3m typically) but I've not yet found a reason why given.

Depending on the lie of the land it might be better to have a manhole half way along the 20m run. If the fall is 2.5m over 20m then 1:40 uses up 0.5m leaving 2m. Perhaps use two 1m high drops, one near the house and one at the mid point or part way along. Lots of options if that doesn't work for some reason. Increasing the number of manholes can reduce the depth of the trench for the pipe as well as for the manhole.

Just a heads up.. Is there a public foot path across the plot? Looks like there might be one running diagonally from NW to SE according to.. https://getoutside.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/local/dunsfold-waverley This might not be an issue as footpaths can be diverted but it's another possible hurdle. May require you to provide a new route around the edge. The footpath officer should be able to provide a definitive map for you as the OS maps are sometimes wrong. There was one across our plot but the previous owner had done the paperwork to move it. We still had to level the new route and put down grass. We put down seed but then the footpath officer wouldn't agree to open the new route until it had become established. This meant we couldn't close the old one and start work on the foundations until the grass grew. So overnight we turfed it and had him back for another inspection! Some 10 years later and we have never seen anybody walk the footpath because there is another parallel to it through the church next door.

Definitely worth a shot especially with your contacts. My guess is the planners will take your pre-app fee and ask you to provide some drawings of the proposal. At least a site plan and possibly more. That way they have something to consider. So there will be other costs in addition to the planning fee. Unless you buy a plot with PP already these costs are pretty much unavoidable. We had decided to use an architect to design our house so I visited a few just to see what they were like, tell them about the plot and ask for a fee proposal. One of them actually went to my site and with the quote he sent 3 or 4 ink and water colour sketches of his ideas for the plot!! He got the job. Don't be disappointed if the planners say no for a bunch of reasons. I've noticed that when it's a marginal decision they sometimes tend to look for other factors that support their view to try and make it more clear cut. There are many people who have worked to address the issues, pressed on anyway and submitted a full application, had it rejected, and gone on to win at appeal. At each stage you will have to decide if it's worth the financial risk. You may even, as we did, end up paying out for a planning consultant to review your proposal and tell you if it's worth going to the next stage. As you go through the process make sure you keep an eye on any time limits. I had a look at google sat view and it looks like a very nice location. I would plan to retain any trees that exist and possibly offer to plant more on the boundaries to screen your house? Do your friends also own the land slightly to the south of the plot? How about access to services? Sewer in the road and electric etc? Problems with those can add a small fortune to the build cost.

It is but see "Drop Shaft or Back Drop Connection" on this page... http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain05.htm#dropshaft Allows you to keep below the max recommended falls on the pipes. Edit: Note the use of a large radius bend at the bottom of the drop in the photo. I think this is safer than the tight bend shown in the diagram.

Going back to the OP... If short of time I would just get the boat house to do a basic connection and pipe run to your boundary or manhole just inside you boundary, worry about the onsite detail later.

If you have been lurking you will probably have seen warnings and risks about plots without planning permission. They can be worth considering but don't pay plot price or even half plot price for a what is currently just a field. Likewise don't end up paying to get planning permission only for the owner to jack up the price or sell to a third party. Consider some sort of option to purchase contract while you get planning permission etc If it's already on the market then It makes no sense for someone to sell land without trying to get planning permission themselves first so got to ask why haven't they tried already? Sorry if you know all this stuff. If not try "How to find and buy a building plot" by Roy Speer.

Could depend on the layout of the settlement boundary. Would it set a precedent for adjoining land (eg stick out into virgin countryside) or is it more of an infill situation (fill in a "notch" in the settlement boundary?).

Personally I don't recommend accepting a quote "Inc VAT" and then not paying the VAT. It might be legal but it's better to point out beforehand that it should be zero rated. If they are awkward about it go elsewhere. If they get awkward after doing the work they may not be so keen to sort any problems or warranty.

Before a final decision check frost ratings. Also check possibility of salt/efflorescence (white staining) as some types of brick are more prone than others.