Temp

Our varies by room but typically 20 first thing, 18 during the day, 20 in evening, 16-18 depending on the room at night. Room stats and tank stats have hysteresis so boiler certainly doesn't run continuously.

My understanding is as follows...let's suppose the existing area is 200sqm... Simple extension...there would be no cil liability as the increase is under 100sqm of new space. Knock down and rebuild 40sqm larger... The new building is 240sqm. Since thsg is bigger than 100sqm there will be a cil liability. However it would be calculated on 240-200 = 40sqm eg the increase in area only. Not on the total area 240sqm. This is provide the new pp is granted before demolition. You sould also get the self builder exemption if you do all the claim paperwork before starting. See also.. https://www.khub.net/web/planningadvisoryservicepas/forum/-/message_boards/message/28062398 So yes you should avoid doing any work on site including demolition before you have the new pp and cil exemption paperwork done.

Covenants normally get split automatically so they apply to both parts. However I think if you get permission from the land owner that benefits from the covenant it should be possible to get it removed from the existing house after the split. Or you could just leave it as it might be unenforceable after the split so easier to remove? Speak to a solicitor.

Three years ago I would probably have agreed with you. We had several GU10 fail but the failure rate seems to have improved since. There might still be issues with some makes but less than there was overall.

You can get longer dishwasher hose from places like Screwfix. I would also get a pipe clip to support the hose reducing any string on the spigot.

What a wind farm does is build the access point and then they apply for a certificate of lawful development so they have something official in writing. CLD are legally binding where as regular letters from planners are just their opinion which can change later.

A new build would be exempt from the CIL but you would have to get pp and pay the previous owner his uplift. If a conversation isnt exempt then the CIL might outweigh some of the saving. I think it should be exempt but the Cambridge link mentions situations when it isnt.

That one is better. The battery is 32Wh so in theory should run a 10W Led for 3 hours.

The 10W model has a 2.2AH 3.7V battery = 8.4WH If it's a 10W Led it won't last an hour. The 50w version is similar.. 2.2AH at 8.4V = 19WH. If it at 50W LED it will last about 19/50 hours = 22 mins. Someone check my figures as they claim 3-4 hours lighting time.

Does your council have the CIL? It's not clear (to me) if the self build exemption applies to a convertion built under permitted development. The guidelines on my council web site are very confusing... https://www.eastcambs.gov.uk/planning/cil-frequently-asked-questions Scroll down to "What development is liable for the CIL" Edit: On second thoughts it probably is exempt. Just make sure it's been in legal use for 6 months. Get that in writing from the seller. And don't do any work on site until you have done all the paperwork needed for the exemption.

Think I saw someone on eBay doing the same recently.

If we are talking GU10s then I look for bulbs with a wide beam angle and producing 350 Lumens or more. Recently I've actually had reasonable results with Dial brand which I think are BnQ (or is it Homebase?) and quite cheap. Check you have dimmers suitable for LED. Some makes have a phosphor that glows for awhile after being turned off. If the glow persists for more than say an hour you may need to add a capacitor/snubber to some of the fitting as it's due to coupling between live and switched live.

+1 for the UFH. Might need one for the DHW if the boiler is small. Not all our floors are pipe in screed. Do check the minimum return temperature spec for your oil boiler. Grant say.. "The boiler should not be allowed to operate with return temperatures of less than 40° C when the system is up to operating temperature." The UFH return temperature could be lower so you would need a mixer to warm up the return a bit.

Yes there is a flow switch. The one fitted has a very low flow detection point but they are hard to get hold of. I took the precaution of getting a spare awhile back because others available online all seem to have a higher detection point.

I have a Grant oil boiler feeding a vented 300L thermal store. 3300sqf approx. house built 11-12 years ago. Could be better insulated. The store feeds UFH on both floors, DHW and towel rads. Thermal store was from.. http://www.heatweb.com/products/cylinders/heatbank/heatbank.htm My store, boiler, UFH and towel rails share a common water system which is vented so no PRV anywhere. I dose it with Fernox F1. For DHW it has an external heat exchanger on the side of the store. This feeds a pretty high flow rate shower (Large rain type rose and body jets etc) but copes well. Down side of this set up is the extra pump needed to circulate water from the store to the heat exchanger. That pump and the exchanger itself leak quite a lot of heat into the store room it's in. Great for drying clothes in there. Our boiler is large - 40kW - probably could have used a smaller boiler and a larger store but the system works ok. Manages to keep family of 4 in hot showers one after the other. The boiler-store loop has a thermally controlled bypass on it because Grant recommend a minimum return temperature to stop corrosion. This only kicks in when the store is heated from cold (eg after a holiday or long weekend away in summer). Oil boilers don't modulate and the store does stop it short cycling. However was quite critical to get set up. I ended up fitting smaller jets in the boiler which reduced the power and made it easier. They say the smaller jets also improve efficiency a fraction as well. If doing this again I'd go for a bigger store and smaller boiler. Edit: The towel rads are on their own output from the store (normally used for conventional rads). It has a pump and a pipe stat on the return. That way pump runs until the return pipe is hot then stays off until pipe (and rads) have cooled a bit. Then pump runs again. Idea was to avoid having the pump running all the time stirring the store.

Google suggests its something to do with a "self signed certificate" and perhaps specific to Google Chrome? https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2016/06/use-existing-ssl-certificate-linux-unifi-controller/ These also seems to point to the certificate being an issue.. https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Not-Private-Connection-warning-when-logging-into-Unifi/td-p/2087988 https://www.naschenweng.info/2017/01/06/unifi-cloud-key-ssl-configuration-rapidssl/

One trick is to cut the wires long, arrange them as per above then cut to length. If you cut to length and then arrange them some will be wrong length. Its very important they all go right to the bottom of the connector. You normally have to hold/push the cable in while you crimp or they can creep out. I believe there are also two types of connector, one for solid core and one for stranded wire. Important you have the right ones.

If I was building again I would include a level access even if it wasn't required by the regs. I wouldnt have an obvious ramp either.

I believe the expansion vessel can go anywhere on the sealed loop that it's protecting. So could even be on a different floor. Some may have to be in the right orientation?

If it's galvanised it can be tricky to paint. Bit like trying to paint a wax candle with water colours. I think I would clad it, possibly asymmetrically so it looks like it's a bit further from the wall?

Google found.. https://www.french-property.com/news/money_france/heating_costs_2017/

If they have had a survey done ask to see it as there might be something in it that has got them concerned. The main worry seems to be damp bridging the cavity due to unsuitable insulation in houses with bad pointing or similar.

I persuaded my builder to use B&B on both floors. He'd never done a first floor but said he liked it as it went down quick and no issues with weather. Made tiling our bathroom easy.

Not for whole frames but there are several places online (inc ebay) you can use to compare pricing for standard size beams. I'd always go visit the place and pick out what you want though. Says £29/cubic foot here.. https://www.somersettimber.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Green-Oak-Price-List.pdf £28/cfm here from a reclamation yard.. http://www.norfolkreclaim.co.uk/green-oak-beams-28-per-cubic-foot-vat/ Ebay seems to be nearer £35/cubic foot for a 200x200x3m beam I looked at List prices elsewhere £50-60 but haggle.

If it was a planning condition then you can't legally build the house without it so I would say yes claim it. I would mention that it was required by planning condition on the spreadsheet.