Temp

I wouldn't worry too much. Roofing felt/membrane should drape between the rafters so that it's not tight up under the tile battens. The hole doesn't look like it's at the bottom of the drape so I think it's unlikely any water will get in.

Spare a thought for Amazon delivery drivers trying to find your house in the dark... Make it illuminated and big enough to see from the road without a telescope :-)

Yes see 3.3.4 in vat 708. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section3 It allows among other things..

During our build i picked up a load of samples of engineered oak at a self build show. When I got home and put them in natural light I found a very wide difference. They all looked good at the show but some were virtually orange at home. Shop around for appearance as well as price. Perhaps even buy one pack to lay out in the room. You can buy it ready finished or unfinished for you to paint yourself. We got ours prefinished but if you do the latter I recommend Osmo hard wax oil. Also consider the orientation carefully (across or along the room).

+1 See the reclaim form... On page 13 it days..... And on page 14 it gives some examples of what can be claimed and one item on the list says.

YouTube showed me an advert for a compressor from lidl. Looks like they have a bunch of tools from Sunday. Not sure if link will work.. https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/MiddleofLidl.htm?id=1177&week=1

We have a similar mix but stone floors in some rooms. Great as its warm in winter and cool in summer. They reckon you should keep the TOG value of carpet and underlay to around 2.0-2.5 in total. There are special low TOG underlays with TOG of 0.6-0.7. Beware, some carpets come in two versions, Hessian backed and foam rubber backed. Some shops reserve the right to deliver either version in the small print. You probably want the Hessian backed as the foam rubber no doubt increases the TOG a lot. In which case get the shop to write something on the order.

As I recall there isn't much space in most waterproof switches like the BG. Its hard to tell from the video but I reckon you will need a separate junction box.

How many people/properties have rights over the area of common parts? Is it just the person/company offering to sell it to you?

Yes although what he actually has is a normal switch AND a Qinetic Receiver in the "shed" plus a Qinetic Transmitter in the house.

Here.. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Quinetic/index.html?ad_position=1t1&source=adwords&ad_id=187179140871&placement=&kw=wireless lighting&network=g&matchtype=p&ad_type=&product_id=&product_partition_id=&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAjwtuLrBRAlEiwAPVcZBuT2Wy1yNuY7DfPWjNcoEugZGHkeEbr7wOQ9uKew5qu1ReUS9nnOxRoCTYIQAvD_BwE It says they are IP67 rated so should be ok outdoors. To do the two way switching I believe you need one of these combined "Wireless Switch & Built In Receivers" on the outside of the garden room controlling the lights. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURS1W.html It says these "facilitate[e] additional wireless two way or more switches to the circuit." Then you need one of these in the kitchen.. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUWS1W.html to allow them to be controlled from there as well. Edit: Both of the above are one gang but I see they also do two gang versions of both - so the lights in the garden room could be controlled independently to the lights outside the garden room. Both lots of lights also controlled from both locations.

Some years ago the rules changed. Prior to the change there had to be two doors between WC and kitchen. After the change (eg now) you only need one door provided there is a wash basin in the same room as the WC. So you should be ok if there is a wash basin in there. I believe it will also need an opening window or extractor fan.

Sounds like you need to move the gutters outboard a bit? Sketch drawing might help.

That's unlikely to work these days if the land is registered. Previously you just had to fence it off for 10 years and then claim ownership. A few years ago the rules changed so that when you try and claim (it after 10 years) the Land Registry will write to the registered owner. That owner then has 2 years to object, otherwise its yours. Problem is most people will object when they get that letter. The land Registry have also started to enforce the rules more strictly. If you leave the right of way open they will say you haven't met the rule requiring it to be fenced off "to the exclusion of all others". They may also do that if you leave a gate unlocked or can't prove the gate was always locked.

I think an "area of common parts" is usually shared with other owners, for example the passage way in a block of flats. I think you would need permission from all the other owners to remove it from their deeds. One possibility might be to mention to them that its overgrown and needs clearing to prevent rats. Hint that they may have to share the cost of this unless they give up their right. In practice I don't think it's easy to force them to pay for maintenance so they might see through this approach.

Three small samples arrived Saturday and I gave them a torture test of ketchup, vinegar and wet copper coins for three days. They survived a lot better than our travertine would. Surprisingly the whitest "Ice" version seemed to withstand staining the best. Sure there were marks, particularly under the coins which were green around the edges, but cleaning with a bathroom cleaner removed them easily enough.

Laser?... https://www.lasermaster.co.uk See the submit a drawing link. I entered 500mm x 150mm 3mm SS and quantity of four and an oval shape and it said £84 total. Not sure what set up costs would be for a custom design.

Can you get a right angled SDS drive? And would that fit between the joists?

They refer to approved cabinets and trunking in here but they are all single supply as far as I can see. https://www.ukpowernetworks.co.uk/internet/asset/3b7f1ee6-1fc8-461a-a5d5-a4909a64895B/UKPowerNetworks_Site%2BInformation%2BPack_V2Dec2017_FINAL.pdf I think at the very least they will have to tell you if they are providing one fat cable or 6 smaller cables! Can you find someone building another block of flats and see what they are doing?

Looking here... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/general-binding-rules-small-sewage-discharge-to-the-ground and https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/397173/ssd-general-binding-rules.pdf and https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/367016/ssd-reform-further-info-201410.pdf ..it does look like an upgrade to a drainage field/mound is required even for systems built before 2014. Drainage mounds can be quite large. If you find a water course to discharge into you would also need to change to treatment plants instead of septic tanks. In the latter document it says who is responsible on page 8... So again well worth checking the title deeds. One problem I can see is that the owner of the field may not be obliged to agree to any changes. So perhaps keep him sweet. Likewise the owners of the other three houses as there could be a bill heading their way. I think you should also contact the water co to see if they have any plans to connect this group of houses to mains sewers. The village near us was done recently but that's about 25 houses.

We have a bit of a mixed system. Everything to the left of the Thermal store is downstairs. The Store and manifolds are upstairs. The manifolds are located between the two bathrooms which are close together. So I think any extra pipe due to the use of a manifold approach was minimal. It's a mix of copper and plastic. Mostly 28mm copper before the manifolds and plastic in various sizes after. The manifolds were "home made" from 28mm copper fittings. The diagram is simplified (I've not shown the boiler loop, isolating valves and the Thermal Store is much more complicated). The water softener is just a place holder with bypass as we haven't needed one. One of our showers is a high flow rate with body jets. Works well.

With some cad packages you can import an image and trace over it on another layer, then hide or delete the image. However the problem really is that this means you are scaling or measuring from the drawing and that's not recommend. You should used measured dimensions to create the drawing. One possibility is for you to measure the house and mark up dimensions onto the pdf so they can recreate the cad drawing accurately - in effect doing the survey for them - but don't expect them to accept liability for errors later.

Site workers are allowed to live on site without needing planning permission but see my reply in this thread for more. As I recall they can even live on land next door to the site.

I wouldn't worry too much about occupying before getting the certificate. The planners are unlikely to take any action if they can see you are working towards getting one.

PS: Back in the days of the Morris 1300 my dad claimed to get 47,000 miles on a set of tyres. Oh and he would tow a caravan with it. Scary.