Temp

Seems a shame to cut off the nicely pressure treated edge.

Hard to know what the BCO would accept as a minimum for a full plans application. Normally there is enough detail to show how walls are constructed. Cross sections through key areas such as where the new wall will meet the window and the new door. Won't need details of the electrics where the door is going.

1m adjacent to a highway unless you get PP. 2m elsewhere.

Presumably anyone cutting a hedge on behalf of the PC or authorized by the PC should be covered by the PC's Public Liability Insurance policy? And suitably qualified to prune trees? Be careful if you raise this issue as they may decide to stop you cutting it as well for same reason.

Perhaps put out on the grape vine you are considering replacing it with a fence because a prowler was seen leaving through a gap and crossing the road.

They aren't 1m out...they are on the wrong planet.

If you need Building Control Approval there are two methods to get it... 1) Full Plans Application: You or someone like an Architectural Technician or Plan Drawer makes drawings and you submit them with an application and fee. Then wait for the plans to be approved before starting work. 2) Building Notice: You notify the BCO that you are starting work and pay a fee. Then you just start work. In both cases you should ask the BCO at what stage(s) does he want to make inspections and call him to request an inspection when you reach that stage. There is also a final inspection after which if all is well you get a certificate you can give to a future buyer or lender etc. The difference is risk. If you go option 2 the BCO might turn up for the first inspection and spot something wrong. You might have to make major changes or demolish work done and start over. That said most builders are familiar with the regs and would probably do this on a Building Notice. If you were going to DIY the work you might consider a Full Plans Application. I would recommend getting an electrician who can certify his own work to Part P of the building regs to do any wiring. He should provide paperwork for the Building Control Officer.

Even if you can't avoid the CIL using the self build exemption it should only be payable on any increase in floor area. If the converted dwelling has a floor area over 100sqm (very likely) the CIL is payable on any increase in floor area over that which currently exists. Eg on a garage or extension. I'm not sure how they count an extra floor. Eg If you add a floor in a tall barn does that double the floor area for the purposes of the CIL calculation? Edit: It seems it does according to.. https://clarenasharchitecture.co.uk/community-infrastructure-levy-means-self-builders-barn-conversions/

I asked my MP to find out if the exemption for self builders was intended to include conversions. I'm afraid the answer i got was vague. However see this case that almost went to court. If the council refuses an application for an exemption I would send them info on this case and ask them to reconsider.

Yes you can. See page 20 in the guide here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance

Post a photo of the door. Perhaps we can find a similar one.

If its a minor/unclassified road (not an A or B road) you may not need planning permission for a new access. For example if the use of the site is covered by permitted development. In such a case you could form the access first, use it for awhile, then apply for planning to develop the site using the existing access. The planners can still object if the new use would involve more traffic using the access making it more dangerous.

Does the lease company really want both Planning Permission and Building Control Approval? I can understand them wanting the latter.

Buying the land... You have only two options I can see... 1) Find the owner somehow and make an offer. Some ideas on how to do that from the land registry.. https://hmlandregistry.blog.gov.uk/2018/02/05/search-owner-unregistered-land/ 2) Fence it off "to the exclusion of all others", wait 12 years and claim it under adverse possession. As its not registered the land registry won't be able to contact the real owner to warn them so good chance this might succeed provided you meet the strict conditions for claiming the land.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/adverse-possession-of-1-unregistered-land-and-2-registered-land/practice-guide-5-adverse-possession-of-1-unregistered-and-2-registered-land-where-a-right-to-be-registered-was-acquired-before-13-october-2003

Council definition of sustainable has very little or nothing to do with green issues. They are mainly concerned with the availability of services like... is there space at the nearest school? bus to the GP? shops? That's all in addition to the issue of "using up green space".

Installing a wood burner requires Building Control Approval but there are two ways to do this: 1) DIY the installation and make a Building Control Application (fee payable). 2) Use a Hetas approved Installer who can self certify their work and notify Building Control. You may also need to notify your house insurance.

As for your first question about the walls and separation I think it's the following.. Perhaps I should add that the Approved Documents typically illustrate "one way" (actually several ways) of demonstrating compliance with the Building Regulations. If you can convince the BCO that another way is acceptable that's also ok.

Things would be easier if you selected a stove that "cannot cause the temperature of the upper surface of the hearth to exceed 100C" (See 2.23a on page 37). In that case the hearth can be a 12mm thick sheet of something non combustible like glass or slate directly on top of a wood floor. Shape and size as per diagram 26b...

I believe you want Diagram 25 on page 37 of Approved Document J.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468872/ADJ_LOCKED.pdf

Perhaps not as much as you might expect... 3-5000 Ton is around 4.5 million kg. If that was raised to a height of 8m it would store.. Energy = mass*height* gravity = 4,500,000 * 8 * 9.8 = 353MJ of energy. The stored energy would have to be used while the tide is going out allowing the vessel to descend turning a generator as it does so. That's 6 hours. If it was "discharged" at a continuous rate for 6 hours the max power output would be... Power = Energy/time = 353,000,000/(6*60*60) = 16kW approx. Obviously it could deliver more power for shorter periods - say 32kW for 3 hours or 64kW for 90 mins. In practice it would be a less as you can't capture and convert all the energy to electricity. If you were thinking of using a real boat for this you would have some problems. The boat would need to be supported somehow when the tide goes out and the water disappears from underneath it. It can't float down as the tide goes out because that wouldn't allow you to capture the energy. Tidal barriers like that proposed for the river seven work because the amount of water raised would be much larger. The real problem is that gravity is quite weak.

Is this the same thing for £85 or is it a different version? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F22025972786

+1 to check the pump direction. I looked at the manual but it's not clear. The drawing that shows the permitted installation orientation suggests it might be installed pumping downwards by mistake. However if that was the case I don't think the flow meters would work?

Does the ufh loop pump stop or does it keep running when the fault occurs?

Some manifolds have an "over temperature stat" that limits the floor temperature to prevent damage to some types of flooring and burnt feet. Perhaps this is set too low?

Moderator may need to allow you to post some photos as you are anew member?