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I got about 27,000 miles out of the fronts on my Ford smax and 31,000 out of the rears. Rears would have lasted longer but was getting assymetric wear due to a tracking issue. They were Bridgestones.

As long as it's close to the conventional shape most seats will work. We have one that's slightly square but even that can be made to take a BnQ seat.

More here with a list of other schemes... https://www.dgcos.org.uk/news/competent-person-schemes

Yes. Replacement windows are "notifiable" as is some other building work that effects the insulation properties of the building. You can DIY the window and make a building control application yourself (fee payable) but a valid option is to use a member of a "competent person" scheme of which Fensa is one example. They will ensure the work meets the regs and notify the Building Control Office at the council (also for a fee but some may hide the fee in the bill). Something similar applies to some but not all electrical work.

This web site... https://www.wte-ltd.co.uk/septic_tank_general_binding_rules_2020.html ..suggests it might only be septic tanks that discharge directly to a water course that have to be replaced by a sewerage treatment plant. Check out the title deeds for all properties concerned to see if there is anything mentioned about a right to discharge. These can be obtained from the (real) Land Registry web site for a few £ each. You may have to set up an account but they send them by email in a few mins usually. Make sure you visit the real one as some of the fakes look better than the real one!

We went for a freestanding Boat Bath from BC Designs. They have this built in double ended bath but I've no idea if its the same quality as the freestanding bath we have. It's a lot cheaper. https://bcdesigns.co.uk/baths/lambert-double-ended-bath/

I would consider something like a false ceiling. Eg don't fix the plasterboard to the underside of the floor joists, instead use separate joists to support it. Perhaps two layers of plasterboard. No lights penetrating the plasterboard?

We have a glass shower screen that sits in an aluminium channel stuck to the tray with silicone. I was expecting the builder to drill and screw the channel to the stone tray but he said silicone would be strong enough and he was right. 11-12 years later its still stuck down well despite people grabbing the edge of the glass to support themselves. If it can do this I think it would easily stop a hob moving about.

That _might_ be sufficient to count as having started but, as others have suggested, ask the council if they consider work has started and therefore the PP is still valid. What do the houses either side look like? Planers like to maintain uniformity where it exists. If all other houses are massive places of similar design then they may not like the idea of one much smaller house.

While I was getting my tyres fitted the phone rang several time with people who had a Groupon code. The receptionist kept telling them they must bring some sort of security number with them. I havent investigated but it must be a significant discount as there were at least three callers asking about it in the short time I was waiting.

What @ProDave said. If someone "supplies and fits" (eg provides materials and labour) both must be supplied at the lower of the two rates. If it's a new house labour is zero rated so the materials must be zero rated to you as well. This is in VAT 708. If the brickie charges you VAT on materials and you pay it in error you cannot reclaim the VAT from HMRC. If the brickie is VAT registered he can reclaim the VAT from HMRC so won't be out of pocket. If your builder is not VAT registered you should buy the materials yourself from the builders merchant and in that case you can reclaim the VAT. You need a VAT invoice in your name.

Our first mortgage was £37,000 but nearly ruined us when interest rates peaked over 15% in the late 1980s. When rates came down we didn't reduce our repayments by the full amount to try and build up a safety margin.

Check if they left an expansion gap around the edge? Was the oak just laid on the screed of has glue failed?

Am I right in thinking the Combinate just passes water over the balls? If so you might be able to make one from a water filter and refill balls for a less than they charge for the device.

Section 2E of Approved Doc A also has guidance on the minimum depth (eg how deep the bottom of the foundation should be) in section 2E4 and the thickness in 2E2. In practice you dig down to the depth recommended in 2E4 and fill it up with concrete to a depth that is a convenient multiple of brick or block courses below the required DPC/FFL level (Checking that the resulting thickness is greater than needed to meet 2E2). That way you don't need to cut blocks to make thinner courses. Some people use more concrete and fewer courses of blocks than needed to meet 2E2. This is sometimes called fully filled foundations but that doesn't mean they are always filled right to the very top just close. It can make sense especially if building in winter/wet weather as your trenches are less likely to fill with water or collapse. You still want to be a convenient multiple below DPC. I think the NHBC also require there to be a cavitiy 225 mm deep below DPC. So that may also limit how high you fill your trench.

Ideally you need to know the load bearing capability of the ground (in Newtons per square meter) and the load (in Newtons). Then it should be easy to divide one by the other to give the required area (in square metres). The issue is what safety factor should be included as well as other precautions (particularly for soft ground or clay). Table 10 in Approved Documents A give some guidance on the width of strip foundations required for different soil types and load. The issues and maths are similar. I'm not an SE though.

@JSHarris has pretty much covered the options. Beware there are numerous gadgets on the market, some for very high prices that are best avoided. The Advertising Standards Authority has ruled many times on the claims made for clip on magnetic, electronic or fairy crystal based gadgets that claim to be able to soften water and remove limescale. The general rule appears to be that in the UK such gadgets cannot claim to soften water unless they remove the calcium/magnesium. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_water_treatment "Magnetic water treatment is regarded as unproven and unscientific".

It might be possible to ask the supplier for a "Performance Bond" but they will pass on the cost to you. You also need evidence they have paid and continue to pay the premium. I'm not very familiar with these and you might need legal advice to ensure the wording of the bond covers everything you need it to. https://www.thebalancesmb.com/builders-guide-to-performance-bonds-844795 It says typical costs are 1-2%. That might mean the premium is too low to be of interest to providers on low value projects?

+1 to that. Just make sure you know the rules. The >£100 amount must be a deposit for the windows. If necessary pay another >£100 by CC for installation so both are covered by same CC company. Some companies hide in small print that the windows and installation are separate contracts. It may say they act as agents for the installer and your contract for installation may turn out to be with another company or even a subsidiary of the same company. Subtle differences like this can invalidate a claim against the CC card co if the company that goes bust isn't the one you actually paid. If there is anyone "in the middle" of the transaction the card co may have a get out.

The key feature of that system is that the UFH system is on top of the structural floor deck. So important to set joists 50mm lower than would otherwise. Especially important if using a mix of different systems in the house.

I accidentally "liked" this post above. I'm not keen/convinced about their "turning boards" that seem to need a thin layer of levelling compound. Would they be as strong/stiff as the cement boards?

I would ask them if the cement boards can be laid direct on joists and tiled. I doubt they will say yes but if they do then laying on battens should work. The problem is tiles need a quite rigid floor. Any flex when teenagers dance on them will cause trouble.

Thanks for that. Will have a look. Someone also suggested white glass might be an option. I can imagine polished glass would show scratches though.

Done.

So from their point of view they have only had a valid application for three weeks. I wouldn't go stirring them up just yet. If you are confident the foundation design is correct you could write to them and let them know it is your intention to start work on <date> unless they have identified any issues with the plans by <a few days before date>. Add a line that says something like "We anticipate you will wish to inspect the foundation trenches before they are filled and will contact them when we reach that stage". Try and keep a good relationship with the BCO because they can bend the rules to help you out when you need it. Ours spotted a problem with a window that didn't comply with the regs and which would have been very expensive to fix. He allowed it provided we made a minor change to a door elsewhere. Saved us about £5k. I know it's frustrating but if you start insisting they stick to the letter of the rules don't be surprised if they expect you to do the same later.