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If you have the headroom it might be better to work out how tall the new joists would need to be if the existing ceiling joists don't carry any of the load. Then put the new ones in 1" above the top of the plasterboard. Dont bolt them to the existing joists (except perhaps at the ends). That way there is no new load on the existing joists and fewer cracks in the plaster in rooms below

Yes. I would also show them the valuation as 22% is quite a chunk. Just remember they may decide to take it off the market for a year or two.

+1 Doesn't need to be super thick. If it's going to be hot weather you might consider getting enough to put some on top of the screed as well (as soon as it can be walked on). That will help stop water loss and slow the drying a bit to reduce possibility of cracking. Where two rooms of screed meet at a doorway consider forming a deliberate "crack" (aka expansion gap) across the door. Otherwise you may get a nice curved crack like we did !

+1 It's planning status is now "separate dwelling" so as far as the planners are concerned you are free to split the title and sell the annex as a separate house if you wish. If that's what you plan to do then remember you may need Permission from your mortgage company and they may want you to repay off a fraction of the mortgage with the proceeds of the sale. You may also need to split the utilities so the annex has its own water, electric, gas, sewerage etc After the title is split you should probably tell your insurance company about the change from detached to semi-detached.

Sorry if this is obvious but are you just pressing it briefly or are you holding it down down for several seconds to reset the boiler? The web says.. F28 means it's tried to light a few times without success and given up. F29 means the flame was on but went out for some reason. So if it is been reset and you get F29 again that suggests I did fire up but then went out. Did you turn all the cylinders fully on or just one?

I would also make sure you have some black duct and 3/8" polyprop draw rope ready for when the engineers come to lay the cable. Just ask them if there is any chance they can lay short lengths across their trench when they backfill to make it safer for you later.

Welcome to the forum. You might also be interested in The Paving Expert website as it has tons of stuff relating to hard landscaping, such as drainage, retaining walls, paving, paths, patios etc.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ There is such a lot on there I find it best to search the index. https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex

Yes normally 4 years except when the breech of planning involves a change of use (eg residential building built on agricultural land) or its a breech of a planning condition in which case it's 10 years. You would be advised to get a letter or other evidence from the seller that helps prove when the building was finished. There is no limit on Building Regulations enforcement as much of the regulations relate to safety. You could ask him to take out an insurance policy to cover you against building control turning up and insisting you make expensive changes. That wouldn't cover you if you invite building control.

You also need to think about the tax implications... https://www.guestready.com/blog/airbnb-income-tax/

https://www.jwpc.co.uk/does-my-airbnb-need-planning-permission/#:~:text=The success of temporary short,shows no sign of abating.&text=However%2C the continuous letting of,planning permission may be required.

Seems some old meters charged for export.. https://www.which.co.uk/news/2020/06/solar-panel-owner-misses-out-on-eight-years-of-electricity-savings/

Seems some old meters charged for export.. https://www.which.co.uk/news/2020/06/solar-panel-owner-misses-out-on-eight-years-of-electricity-savings/

My current 3D printing project is a 1/3rd scale version of this Greek bronze Griffon currently in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The print has been done and painted in white primer and I'm currently copper plating some test pieces to figure out how to get a decent finish. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/255367

I think it would be difficult to make it look convincing. Think i'd just go for one or the other and plant some climbing plants..

Think this is the sort of thing we have, it's a standard pressure reduction valve. https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/pressure-reducing-valves/cat3830010 They usually come preset to 3bar but there is a screw for adjustment, sometimes hidden under a warranty sticker. I find they do need adjusting to increase flow rate a bit every few years. Perhaps because filter gets scaled up? Honeywell is probably the best make.

How about this one that comes with a cover.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Waste-Pipe-32mm-35mm-to-Plastic-Adaptor-Coupling-with-Chrome-Wall-Shroud-/263217259632 Check out the photos.

Our basin is 170mm high and about 275mm from plughole to spout. Fitted a pressure regulator to hot and stop water splashing.

Welcome to the forum. How far have you got? Planning Permission? Building Regs? CIL Exemption sorted? https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para049

Well you also need to pay taxes.

Looks like there might be plastic/chrome adaptors or am I looking at the wrong thing?... https://hertsplumbingsupplies.co.uk/chrome-waste-fittings/1084-mcalpine-32mm-32mmeuro-125-adaptor-mcalpine-abs32-35g-cb-5036484061997.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoPL2BRDxARIsAEMm9y8618dKoDiune6T0C4OMoLq-AfZGhbM96zyYSswEkMi7diQlVP-b_UaAl6VEALw_wcB Found using.. https://www.google.com/search?q=euro+32mm+to+uk+chrome+plated+straight+connector+mcalpine-32g-cb&oq=euro+32mm+to+uk+chrome+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33.13891j0j8&client=tablet-android-pega&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Can you elaborate? Why is it so expensive? We were required to provide a level entry by the building regs. Love it now. So much easier when you want to get something like a washing machine in on a trolley. I reckon the mistake people make is to build a house and then worry they have to add a ramp. Just design it level in the first place.

Might want to check out what the ceiling is made of. I'm sure there must be a 30min fire barrier between a garage and habitable room (like a master bedroom). Usually that's achieved with plasterboard ceiling in the garage but you mentioned it's uPVC. Perhaps there is plasterboard or some alternative above the uPVC?

Google found this YouTube video for a simple project with visual display. Uses a library called TkInter.

https://www.cheffins.co.uk/about/news/view,landowners-to-address-abandoned-rural-property_299.htm

I've read that it's quite hard for "residential use" status to be lost. https://www.planningresource.co.uk/article/1209006/material-change-use-q---dcp-section-432