Temp

Was trying to google some nails for you but found... http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips14.htm "Since September 1997 it has been recommended that all battens used for roof tiles and slates should be a minimum of 25mm thick to allow the tile nail to get a full 25mm of grip." Makes me wonder why they still sell 19mm battens?

Google for Makita circular saw depth gauge. They seem to be cheap. Perhaps buy one marked in mm.

+1 How did you do the waste? On the few I've done its easier if the waste can move around a bit so it can be pulled to the underside of the tray when you screw the top part into it. So I left a channel for the pipe and trap to move around in rather than encasing it in the sand and cement. I just put a small block of wood under the trap so it wouldn't drop down so far the threaded top part couldn't reach.

I recommend checking what flow rate is available from the cold main. Perhaps its the pipe layout around the house causing the issue not the mains flow rate. Partially blocked filter on the inlet to the Baxi? Or would that give error codes?

Did you tell the last two you would provide a site survey? Perhaps the tree surveyor was expecting to have to make his own?

Perhaps a fire escape staircase out back would make an open staircase inside acceptable?

HMRC will tell you there is no fixed time limit that you have to live in a house before it becomes your Principle Private Residence BUT that your intention at the outset can be taken into account. So moving house for work reasons after just a few weeks might be enough to avoid tax. However telling the bank you want a short term loan because you intend moving soon after completion might be enough for the tax man to decide you were building for profit all along. I reckon you should live in the bungalow while building the house. Move into the house and do up the bungalow quickly. Sell bungalow. Wait three years until you are exempt from the CIL and move house. I would avoid returning to the bungalow unless you can find a good reason - such as not being able to afford the house or a medical reason for avoiding stairs? Avoid renting out the new house before you live in it as leases are exempt from VAT rather than zero rated. This means you can't reclaim the VAT paid during its construction as you normally can. If the bungalow has been empty for more than 2 years don't move in until after work starts on its repair. That way the builder you employ to do the work can reduce rate VAT to you. Move in first and he can't. If HMRC decide you are doing all this to make money it can be taxed as Income Tax rather than CGT so the tax bill might be higher than expected.

In my experience the planners will only take an interest if the neighbours complain about a breech.

Induction type for power locks.. https://doorentrydirect.com/securitron-icpt-powerjump-inductive-coupling-power-transfer?ppc_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxNT8BRD9ARIsAJ8S5xaUfFJXskhmzCNRRnLRuT9lisxoJLZVqbxTaamj6DcEI91DTsTLLBsaAkcEEALw_wcB Time for bed.

Hinge type but expensive.. https://accesshardware.com/product/command-access-eth4w-4-5-x-4-5-605-energy-transfer-hinge/ 24v dc only. Google electric transfer hinge.

Here is one in black.. https://smart-home-group.co.uk/products/asec-concealed-door-loop?variant=35868023980190&dfw_tracker=89646-35868023980190&utm_campaign=gs-2020-09-07&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxNT8BRD9ARIsAJ8S5xZgrOO1YP4SYDbo05kUMI74q13ez7XxthRwiT2mqmtsR_Bsvd8mP2EaAkyUEALw_wcB Same one here i think.. https://www.randrsecurity.com/Concealed-Door-Loop

Here's a thought.. You can get black surface mount versions.. https://www.hunters-wholesalers.co.uk/sewosy-dln7-black-door-loop-diameter-p-93130.html Perhaps the flexible tube is the same diameter as the concealed type? If so peehaps you could strip down and paint the ends of a steel finish concealed unit swapping over the hose from a surface mount type. I suggest this because painting the hose part yourself may not work/last.

For me the plastic top seal seems to leave the metal of the waste a bit high. With silicon you can get it nearer flush.

I use cheap diluted Tesco bleach in my shower. I'd try that before expensive mould killers which are probably similar stuff.

And https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://cdn.buildresources.co.uk/sites/967/docs/Specification/WPA_FR/WPA_FR5.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiNubL0-s_sAhXMiFwKHQyNA4cQFjABegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw2vqil7kXtdyEaWCPy-E-Ko&cshid=1603636566093 "Below 18 metres For any building where the upper floor level is less than 18m above external ground level:• The faces less than 1000mm from boundary must meet class Euroclass B-s3, d2 or better.• Where faces are more than 1000mm from boundary there is no requirement for flame retardant treatment, except for assembly or recreation buildings of more than one storey...continues."

Summary here appears to agree with interpretations above.. https://www.woodcampus.co.uk/approved-doc-b-fire-safety-2019/ "For any building other than a recreation or assembly building of 18m in height or lower: No provision Unless any wall is less than 1000 mm from a boundary, when the cladding must be FR treated as a minimum to Euroclass B-s3, d2"

+1 What wall construction are you wanting? SIP with battens/cavity and timber cladding? I guess similar to many barn conversions?

I've also seen dire warnings from conservation groups about problems with doing this to roofs.

That would require the rooflights to be raised up above the deck. They say the upstand should be 150mm. Might be possible to have a "trench" around the roof light but it would need draining.

Worth thinking about how you would find leaks or dry out the roof if its all encased in foam.

The surface of MDF takes paint ok but I reckon cut edges might be different? Might need a lot of sealing and sanding? What do others think?

https://www.prestigedevelopments.com/cavity-wall/ Celotex - breather - Millipore XS....but then render not timber cladding.

On their website they have this doc which summarises some of the combinations they have evaluated... https://hanson-plywood.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Fire-Test-Summary-Sheet_FEB2017.pdf

And (although I think this is for the USA) it looks like spray foam might be the way to go after all... I'd still put a good VCL below the joists before plasterboard.

This doc is interesting. I've just picked out one point below... It recommends putting insulation above the waterproofing layer which is a new one to me. https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-051-decks-roofs-you-can-walk-on