Temp

Last i heard house building is back to precovid levels so perhaps suppliers have been caught short of stock?.

That's unfortunate. Means the bco may want a 50mm deep ventilated void between membrane and insulation to avoid interstitial condensation.

Definitly reclaimable (Brexit changes allowing). Many of us have reclaimed vat on purchases from Europe, Belgium in my case.

Possible insulated roof panels.. https://www.panelsell.co.uk/insulated-roof-panels?source=google&medium=adwords&campaign=1614494041&adgroup=62109888958&keyword=insulated roof panels&matchtype=e&adposition=&device=t&network=g&gclid=CjwKCAjwlID8BRAFEiwAnUoK1bB9upYPK1cPN1_smpBo1Oyz_koIJikm6xUO6Dz63dWeO66Hd_rhWRoC--cQAvD_BwE Add more insulation below.

Trivia: Balsa wood is technically a hardwood. We went with Oak and despite protecting it managed to get some dings during construction.

Although stepped flashing does look good when done right.

Just curious but are they mains powered with a battery backup that's meant to last 10 years or does the battery power them all the time?

What span are the rafters? Is the membrane under the tiles vapour permeable? If it is then you can save 50mm by not needing a ventilated void between it and the insulation. Aerogel is the best insulation in the world (last I heard) but at best it's only twice as good as PIR and very expensive if you can get it. Most aerogel insulation isn't in its pure form because it's too fragile so the insulation properties aren't twice as good as PIR.

I think it might help to know what sort of temper you run the existing store at and the UFH flow temperatures needed to keep those rooms warm?

Yes we have about 80mm of PIR then beam and block floor. If building again I would go for much more.

Which you can reclaim at the end as its a conversion.

That would be a bodge. The flat roof almost certainly has a vertical upstand hidden by the bottom row of slates that stops water running under the slates from getting into the house. The correct thing to do would be to temporarily remove a row or two of slates and redo the flat roof and upstand properly before replacing the slates.

How about dual pitch roof each 2.5m... some rough calculations.. 2.5 * tan(8) = 0.35cm 3m max height at ridge works out at 2.65 at the walls. Less thickness of roof say 300mm gives 2.2m high walls? With such a short span of each pitch perhaps no need to overlap metal sheets so less pitch might be allowed? Just thinking aloud.

Not just BC. The planners would also start rubbing their hands together.

Others may disagree but I would have a rethink. If you put down 18mm osb then 18mm engineered Wood you end up with 36mm overall. We have 21mm in a house built to Building regs standards as they were in 2005-7. We have found we need quite high flow temperatures to push enough heat into the rooms. In addition the return temperatures can be quite high sometimes. There are other threads on here where I suspect having too much wood above the ufh might be the reason they are seeing long warm up times.

Pretty awful brick laying in my opinion.

I wonder if anyone has successfully argued that you can get groceries delivered now ? In my area they also look at access to schools and doctors though.

Got ours from Woods of Wales. 21mm Oak pretreated with hardwax oil.

You can get a waste outlet that has a clever extra tube that provides an overflow without needing overflow hole in the sink... This vid shows how it works. The only issue is you may need a channel in the wall to hide the vertical pipe on the left depending on the design of the basin.

I would question why you want to use solid wood? If you use decent quality engineered Wood you cannot tell the difference once its down. It can also be resanded as many times as solid before the T&G fails. You can also have wider boards without risk of cupping and I think wider boards look better. Ours is about 200mm wide. The only advantage of solid is that its slightly cheaper than the best engineered wood!

Last one I did I could barely move on my own. After mortaring the floor I put two battens down at 1/3 and 2/3 of the width like | | . Then stood tray on edge on the battens and got it so it was leaning up against far wall. Lowered it down onto the battens. Then put a crowbar under a corner and raised it enough to pull a batten out. Repeated for other corner and battern. Worked a treat. The battens werent much thicker than the mortar.

Do we know who's running the show? Due to family issues I've been dealing with quite a few agencies, companies and gov departments recently and just about everywhere seems to be running with backlogs many weeks longer than normal.

Have you purchased the 18mm engineered wood flooring yet? If not then 21mm can go direct onto the joists.

I think it would be useful to know the flow an return temperatures on the problem loops after they have been trying to heat the room for an hour or two. If there is too much wood above the pipes the return temperatures will be high. If you know the flow rate and the flow an return temperatures you can calculate the power going into the floor (although working out where it's going after that I'd harder).

Are you saying the room might have..floorboards, ply, underlay and laminate?