Temp

My electrician did exactly the same in our bathroom.

Ok that sounds like Wedi Board. I have used that to make a wash stand. Nice to use for that because it cuts easily. Mine is hung with travertine stone and has been fine. However I did insert wooden blocks to provide anchor points for towel rails etc. I don't think it would survive if we wanted to remove the stone and retile with something else later. This fire rating relates to just the board not a stud wall clad with board.. https://materialdistrict.com/material/wedi-panel/ For the rest of our room we used Hardi Backer Board. That's a solid cement board that is virtually bomb proof. Quite hard to cut but no problem fixing things to it (if you can't find a stud in the right place). We used the 12mm thickness straight over studs. Hardi Backer Board doesn't burn but it can conduct heat to other flammable materials. So I'm not sure exactly what fire rating a stud wall clad with Hardi Backer Board has. Our BCO didn't question it (if he noticed). Best ask yours. https://www.jameshardie.com/product-support/resource-center/technical-documents/fire-prevention-faq This fire rating relates to just the board not a stud wall clad with board but compare with above.. https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/import/Documents/HardieBacker Multi Fuel Installation Guide.pdf

You also need to think about the battery and wiring carefully. 7000W at 24V = 290A.

I used the Protect VP400 on an out building. Was exposed on both walls and roof for many months with no problems.

Pine can be rather soft. https://www.antiquewoodenfloors.co.uk/original-pine-floorboards.htm

350mm might be wide enough for the services but not sure I could dig a trench in such a confined space. I think i would use it to bargain a better price from the owner of the yellow land.

It means.. "If its NOT one of these two things... 1) a hip to gable 2) Junction between roof on an extension and existing house Then the following applies.." So for example a dormer window is neither of these two so must be set back from the eaves by 0.2 meters.

Not sure about balustrading but I've used Go Glass in Cherry Hinton for other things - 8mm frameless showers, mirror and a few sealed units. https://goglass.co.uk/

I guess you tried the computerised footpath maps maintained by the county council footpath officer? The neighbours may have fenced off the footpath but its not that easy to make a right of way dissappear legally. In addition I don't think they can claim ownership under the rules on adverse possession if the footpath still exists legally. It might be possible to persuade them to let you run services in return for not creating a fuss about the footpath? I'm not recommending this but... Only a land owner can evict someone from a piece of land. So if you were able to somehow occupy the land you need then the neighbours that did the same some years ago would not be able to evict you unless they legally own it. You can check who owns small pieces of land by doing a "map search" at the land registry. The exact boundary cant be determined that way but they should be able to identify if there is a strip between you and them owned by the council or third party.

https://www.cse.org.uk/advice/advice-and-support/how-much-electricity-am-i-using Says.. Washing machine is 1200-3000W Electric ovens 2000-2200 Freezer 200-400 Fridge 40-120 Computer 80-100 Call it 3500W to 6000W total Without more info on the actual appliances I'd be looking for something that can do over 6000W continuously. I suspect "Peak" figures are usually only guaranteed for a few seconds, eg to allow for motor start up.

You can still get hand saws and chisels sharpened for you for a price but there is a certain satisfaction in doing it yourself. I've bought a few second hand wood planes off ebay in the past and there are good youtube videos showing how to tune them up. Not tried this co but google found they do sharpening.. https://www.prosharp.co.uk/services.asp?c=s Hand & Tennon saws Sharpen set & recut as required from £20.00 Wood chisels - Bevelled edge/Firmer/sash Up to and including 1" from £4.00 Above 1" from £5.00

What is your overall floor thickness? We opted for a beam and block first floor.

Got our last appliance from AO. They even delivered on a Sunday.

One other thing to check.. When previous extensions were built the planners may have removed permitted development rights by adding a condition. Should be possible to check that with the planning department.

Unfortunately HMRC can be reluctant to give any tax advice before the fact. I had to call their IHT help line recently and it even mentioned this in the recorded message you get.

I agree. Normally permitted development provided not more than half the original garden has been built on nor would it be within 7 meters of the rear boundary.

Its 5% but you can reclaim that (so 0%) but its not relevant here as already residential. I think anything but option 4 is risky. The rules I've seen are pretty clear about the demolishing all buildings on site and/or only retaining a front wall if required by planning.

Other possible adhesive would be a PU adhesive like Tiger seal or Puraflex. Sticks plastic and metal well. Someone here recommended it for sticking plastic trim back on cars and i've used it for that a few times now. Think there are black and white versions. Gets everywhere if not careful.

I can see a jubilee clip where the wc connects to the stack. I wonder if that joint is gas tight? Pressure testing the drain would tell you if there was a leak but not where it was. The kit to do a pressure test is about £40.

+1 Without ventilation water rushing down waste pipes can suck water out of traps leaving them empty enough to let gas back in when the water stops running. That could be happening anywhere there is a trap - basin, bath, shower or even the WC. Ideally there should be an AAV on that WC stack but if i understand the photos correctly it was difficult for him to connect the WC to the stack in the available space. If you can trace the smell to a basin or bath it might be possible to add a small AAV to the waste pipe near the trap being affected but I think they are meant to be located above the height of the WC pan. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-af32w-air-admittance-valve/42968?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtZH7BRDzARIsAGjbK2ZEICwkuS-RCIxTkjp8GPoo1URMcKhDx2zoXfiMi6z9IcABgSPJF6QaAltvEALw_wcB

I think your 2.6 x 7.4m would need full planning permission because the 7.4m part is more than half the width of the original house. Edit: Actually I think we need to know the exact outline of the original house before ANY extensions were made and if any were added after getting planning permission or were they all done under permitted development.

The two main ways of supporting a chimney after removal are 1) Gallows brackets - these look like large shelf brackets. 2) RSJ/UB - steel beam. I think you may need to expose more to see whats been done.

I'm not totally convinced by the explanation. If the mains voltage shoots up there should be sufficient isolation in the router power supply that its not transferred to the telephone line.

Just cut some 40mm thick timber and screw to the shuttering. Would take me 30mins.

If that's really what happened I'd check every electrical device that was plugged in at the time.