Temp

Could put the insulation on the outside of the duct if you can be sure it won't flood and float. How about filling part of that void with 500-750mm mm gravel so it's effectively buried.

Don't just run the wire past where the lights are going to be. It's better to form a loop of wire as it makes ita lot easier to work on later if there are any problems.. __0_______0________0______

Example part m door threshold. Most people design out the internal ramp/"transition unit"..

Youtube just served me this. Spray foam under UFH. Not seen it done before. Think its french vid but there are limited English subtitles. They sand (grate?) the spray foam down to make it level..

You might be able to get a test kit to measure the inhibitor concentration but I think these are specific to the make of inhibitor?.. https://www.bes.co.uk/sentinel-x100-central-heating-test-kit-7583/ https://www.plumb2u.com/fernox-62514-express-inhibitor-test-c2x32812924 Next time it gets drained measure the volume of water and work out how much corrosion inhibitor is needed. Depending on how your TS works you heed quite a few bottles of the stuff.

I paper around windows. Helps to wet out the paper. If yours is still wet use a pin or sharp knife to pick the bubbles and roll it back down.

+1 We ran 110mm under the floor to the sink area but I think it's too late for the OP to do that.

Indeed, I just got a quote and it wasn't mentioned. https://octopus.energy/go/ Says.. Octopus Go is a beta product. If you're OK that some things may not work first time, that installations and processes may take longer than we'd like, and that on occasion data issues with smart meters can take significant time to fix or prevent things working at all, but that you'd like to work with us to make world-changing energy tariffs a reality, check this box so we know you're onboard. You will always be able to switch to one of our fairly priced standard tariffs at any time. I'm ok with this!

3mm is nothing. Our beam and block floor wasn't that smooth.

The angles aren't 45 degrees in that first pattern ( I mean the one with 3D cubes).

Looks better..

Just been trying that. Doesn't really work..

Looking at tiling a 3x3 bathroom in light coloured travertine stone. Would like to add something to one wall to break it up a bit. Thinking of inserting a rectangular "picture frame" using a border like the one below. Looking for ideas for how to do the corners.. Doesn't look like you can just mitre them at 45 degrees. Is there an obvious way of cutting them so they fit together neatly? Otherwise thinking I need to insert a small square tile in the corners? Anyone seen neat ideas?

We originally insured through Halifax. I don't think they asked us anything about a 10 year warranty. I recall questions asking if construction was complete.

+1 Unless they specified a particular Inspection chamber you might be able to combine the two into one unit. May also depend on the depth of the red pipe. Google Bottle Trap Gully.. https://www.jdpipes.co.uk/knowledge/underground-sewer/what-are-gullies-and-where-do-you-need-them.html

. If you haven't already done so see pages 26-27 for Permitted Development rules on wrap around extensions.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance If you are applying for planning permission then yes in theory you can ignore the permitted development rules. The planners should judge your proposal on its merits not compare them with the PDR rules. However the planners do sometimes use the PDR rules as a guide if they think the end result will be too big/over bearing/over development/just plain ugly. In general its always best to go apply (or pay for pre application advice) for what you want or even a bit more and be prepared to compromise if necessary.

Indeed, he popped uo in news feeds only last year working on solid state battery tech at age 98... https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/nobel-prize-winning-inventor-of-the-lithium-ion-battery-has-his-eyes-set-on-the-next-big-breakthrough-in-energy-storage-301132645.html

Well the crack was expanding:-)

We have a mix of stone and tile over UFH in screed. Used flexible adhesive without a decoupling mat. Only issue we had was where we screeded and tiled through a doorway from one room into the next. The two areas of screed shrank towards their centres causing a curved crack at the doorway. This propagated through the tiles. Should have made a deliberate straight crack in the screed (aka expansion gap) and arranged for it to be under a sill or on a grout line. Or perhaps used decoupling mat in that area.

You will need to talk to the supplier. Some recommend using dittra mat. Guide here on what trowel to use to end up with good % coverage and required thickness. Eg 6mm x 6mm square notch or 10mm U notch should end up with a 3mm bed when properly compressed. They say the U notch is easier to compress.. https://www.rubi.com/en/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-tile-trowel-size-step-by-step/ PS I'm not contradicting @nod. Thicker adhesive is normally used on floors.

I doubt you would notice an extra 0.5mm from the ground.

Best thing our architect did was show me his barn conversion and propose a slightly unusual layout. Our front door opens into a small square hallway but to get to the living room and kitchen you through a door and across the end of the dining room which has the stairs in it and a full height window/gallery landing. On the negative side our house had to be a 1.5 storey with quite a few triangular dormers/gables which added complexity and cost to the roof.

Think ours are like this.In theory whole floor is same temperature..

I wrote to three with details of our plot and what we were looking to build (eg 5 bed with double garage) asking for quotes. One of them went to the trouble of going to the plot and sent us some pen and water colour sketches of his thoughts on the house. He got the job.

My inclination would be to go with the larger collector to give the thing access to as much heat as possible.