Temp

Perhaps try a fine brass wire brush on the pencil marks? Not a steel one.

+1 bring them out under the eaves/overhang or through wall if you can.

In my experience if you buy wood that has warped in store it will keep warping. Best trick I've found is to run it through the table saw and glue the bits with the curve back to back. Not ideal though.

+1 It's only really food storage cupboards, fridges and freezers that should not have wet UFH underneath.

+1 Either a phased development or two separate planning applications. The former would be cheaper but you must spell out in the application that it is to be a phased development for the purposes of the CIL. You can spell out these will be self build plots. The planners may tell you the plots are exempt from the CIL but even so you must formally apply for it after PP is granted and before you start any work.

Hacksaw with smallest teeth you can get. Turn it so the blade is always at the correct angle when you transition from one face to the next. Possibly put a wood block inside so it can be clamped. Take your time.

They are issued by your local planning department. Unlike PP a certificate is determined only on the law. (Eg has or hasn't development started) where as planning permission is a more subjective process.

Architects are great for specifying things that are hard to find. Where did he get his drawing from? I've seen stuff like this.. https://www.roofinglines.co.uk/product/cedral-cladding-insect-mesh-50mm-x-30mm-x-25m https://www.southern-timber.co.uk/product/cladding-timbers/james-hardie-hardieplank/buying-hardieplank-products/hardieplank-starter-vent/

At the moment it appears difficult to find trades so a price contractor that employs one or two full time staff might be worth considering.

+1 The soakers do all the work. The stepped flashing really just stops water getting behind the upstand of the soaker. So form a soaker with its upstand and put it in place temporarily at several positions up and down the roof and mark a line on the wall with chalk. Then you can see which mortar lines can be cut without going into the area where soaker upstand will be and mark them Some typical dimensions on righthand side below.. 85+65 = 150mm

https://www.bal-adhesives.com/blog/fail-safe-tiling-onto-anhydrite-screeds/

That sounds fine to me although I think 50mm screed might be a bit thin. Think 65mm is more standard. However i have heard some BCO insist on hardcore, concrete, insulation, screed. Compact the ground before laying hardcore. Perhaps Compact the hardcore in two layers?

Might be worth drilling some holes in scrap to see if the marks form without nails in the holes?

+1 Just seen this which says you can only put alerts on registered properties.. https://propertyalert.landregistry.gov.uk/

Don't forget the soakers..

Outside and there are rules on how near an opening it can be. We have two 47kg cylinders in a metal cabinet hidden behind our garage. Depending on how many rings you have you may need 47kg Cylinders as they have a higher flow rate than smaller cylinders. Our 2 cylinders are on a combined auto change over/regulator device that tells you when a switch over has occurred. Not sure this is essential but I wouldn't want my wife to run out in the middle of cooking Christmas lunch. For some reason most cabinets are a crazy price (£400-£1,000) so shop around. Ours was just over £200 but that was back in 2007ish. Full 47kg bottles are heavy and really need two people to load in and out of a car so perhaps see if you can get them delivered. Plan a route for how they will be moved from driveway to into cabinet. I discovered you can get quick fit connectors that don't need a spanner to dissconnect/reconnect a cylinder. Our regulator is 13 years old. not had any issues.

We use 47kg LPG cylinders for a 6 burner gas hob as no mains gas in our village. Works very well. Cylinder gas is expensive per kWH but a hob uses so little that the absolute cost is low. Even when we had kids at home and were cooking a lot a cylinder lasted more than 18 months. Say about £50 a year.

Thanks. Reason I asked is our oil boiler, TS and UFH all use same water that is vented. Not looking to replace the oil boiler yet just interested to learn.

Does NHBC also do Building Control these days?

Just curious.. can you run ASHP into a directly heated tank (eg one that doesn't have a coil on the input). I can't think of a reason why not. Edit: Does the loop between ASHP and a TS have to be pressurised?

Problem is council budgets have been squeezed for years. If you think planning departments are under resourced try mental health or social care both of which we've had contact with in the last 5 years. I'm afraid Berxit and the pandemic aren't going to make things easier as a lot of cheap european labor also worked in these sectors. We had issues in 2005-7 getting hold of planning department. I think the only way now is to hold them to the timescale rules on non- determination. I believe they apply to things like discharging conditions as well.

Sorry if obvious but you do need to make sure the bit/half you want to claim can't be accessed other ways (eg fence the ends as well). It should only be accessible via your garden. Do some research as well because the Land Registry have refused claims for lack of evidence or gaps in fences, possibly even not using the land? I'm not familiar with all the reasons they have given but I'm sure there are guides on the web. Look for latest editions as the rules changed not many years ago. You should also do a Map Search via the LR to double check it's not registered as it's almost impossible now to claim registered land. Perhaps also see if you can put a marker on the file so you get notified if anyone else tries to claim it. Not sure if that's possible?

Yup, Google suggests they have to be members of SELECT, NICEIC or NAPIT in Scotland.

Good catch. Think they call them Registered Installers in Scotland.

I believe the only way is to play by the rules... File a planning application. Do not agree to a time extension. (They will write saying they will assume you agree unless you respond). When the 8 weeks are up file an Appeal for non-determination. With luck that will concentrate minds at the planners. You might find they approve it rather than go to appeal or ask for changes. They may even wait until just before the Appeal Date. The appeal will take a long time to be heard but it will eventually happen. Perhaps make it clear to the Appeal Inspector you are willing to consider some changes but the planning department didn't have the resources to engage.