Temp

Google suggested.. Interference, fast roaming, or possibly inadequate power suppy.. https://community.ui.com/questions/Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-keeps-disconnecting/5c6ec594-8f19-42e8-9802-dcea68289863 Possible work around.. reboot or just restart network.. https://weworkweplay.com/play/rebooting-the-raspberry-pi-when-it-loses-wireless-connection-wifi/

I think they expect you to use the power supply and cable provided with the TV. The User Manuals here.. https://www.bathroomtv.co.uk/43-inch-bathroom-tv ..give some figures for the current draw. Looks like you should allow up to 10A. Heads up.. check if the TV has built in speakers as not all do.

Made to order. Finished only? https://www.safelincs.co.uk/custom-30-and-60-minute-fire-doors-fd30-fd60/?rating=2&set=5&finish=41&fGB=true&gclid=CjwKCAiAgvKQBhBbEiwAaPQw3MB3a_IA04fdO-8trbb-r-V49NybyQjJqmw4b8MT4KKLidF9aWVuUBoCJeQQAvD_BwE Cheaper. FD30. Not sure if solid core.. https://www.doordeals.co.uk/product/oak-flush-fire-door-fd30

Perhaps I'm being slow but what do you mean by a blank door? A piece of oak that wide wouldn't normally be used as it would warp, so traditionally Oak doors have never been "plain", they have always been made from narrow boards or framed panels. Edit: Ah you mean a flat veneered solid core door. Got it.

WiFi with directional aerials both ends should work. If not companies make dedicated point to point links for 1km, 3km etc. Think they would be around £150. I don't think ethernet over the mains will go that far but might be worth trying if you already had the kit.

One slightly different system here.. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/11498-first-floor-clay-block-and-beam-heating-slab/

Not me but we saw a lot of different systems used in Belgium when we lived there. One I remember used thin concrete beams about 30mm deep with rebar pyramids sticking out of the top. These were laid side by side touching each other like the metal sheets of Metfloor. Then mesh was laid on top and concrete poured to complete the slab. Their big self buildshow called Batibouw had companies selling systems which I think were intended to be erected by hand without a crane. We ended up using beam & block for our first floor. The beam company provided metal clips for attaching battens to the underside of the beams. Plasterboard was fixed to the battens. This gives a void deep enough for wires in any direction but waste pipes can only be run parallel with the beams. If you need to run pipes the other direction you need to drop the plasterboard lower somehow. Wouldn't be hard. On top we have insulation and screed with UFH. We love the solid feel a concrete floor gives the house. Never had to yell at my kids to stop jumping about upstairs.

+1 Google suggests there are several companies selling solar powered gate systems for farm entrances.

No worries about instalation. I have concealed frames and cisterns elsewhere and have had to replace one before. The frame and cistern in this room were installed a few years ago and I'm only just getting around to buying tiles and the pan for it.

I've reconditioned bunch of oak with just a 30/40 grit sanding disc in a drill. Lots of work (and the divits) add "character" but possible.

Discussion here from 2014 says https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/4979685/lpg-tank-removal-who-is-responsible "Flogas site say £120 for above ground and £400 for below ground" Perhaps cheaper to switch supplier and ask new supplier to remove tank ? Or perhaps you can just decommission it without removing it? Convert to rainwater recycling tank?

I also get more stringing with PETG. You can try.. Lowering nozzle temperatures Increasing retraction distance Increasing retraction speed (or reducing it if too fast) Increasing travel speed (eg less time to ooze between printing) Enable wiping (not all slicers?) Enable combing if not already on.

Considering buying a Grohe Bau rimless wall hung WC for use with a Geberit frame and cistern... https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/grohe-bau-rimless-wall-hung-toilet-with-soft-close-seat Are there any disadvantages of rimless WC? Do they only work well with matching cistern?

So you're trying to use seperate latch and lock on same door? Can you switch the handle onto a combined unit?

You could try submitting calculations based on the BRE Design methodology. Rework the examples with your data.. https://geosmartinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/BRE_DIGEST_SoakawaysDesign.pdf

Can you post a site plan? Or mark up a screen shot from Google maps? How close are you wanting to go to neighbours windows?

As its load bearing/structural it should be designed by someone like an SE. Bit surprised the BCO didn't insist. It's not uncommon to have something like OSB or WBP in load bearing TF structures to prevent racking. I used 12mm WBP on an outbuilding with a tiled roof.

If I've understood correctly you want one with a 60mm backset (backset is measured from edge of door to centre of keyhole/spindle). Dimension "B"... https://www.locksonline.co.uk/community/how-to-measure-door-locks-the-complete-guide.html

+1 What's the other wire in the wall? On a ring you would expect to see two cables (two live, two neutral, two earths) going to the socket. But perhaps this is a spur and that other wire is something else?

Welcome to the forum. I think the cost difference is pretty small.

Welcome to the forum @KateLD +1 to what others have said. I believe it's quite rare for an extension to make a neighbours room so dark that they have a claim under the right to light act. It's more likely to happen if they have a window facing your proposed extension or if the window is already shaded on the other sides so that your extension blocks the last remaining light. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_to_light See the table for what 10 lux is like... https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/light-level-rooms-d_708.html

I wouldn't rush to fit smaller jets. That was last resort for us before fitting a bigger thermal store or smaller boiler. Try turning up the boiler stat and possibly experiment with the pump speed first.

When it's in that state try turning up the boiler stat. If it fires up you know that the boiler stat is limiting.

The stat on an oil boiler is like a limiter. The flame runs flat out until the flow temperature reaches the limit set by the boiler stat. With a small load the flow temperature can hit the limit very quickly causing cycling. The buffer tank is meant to stop this by acting as an extra load so the flow temperature stays below the boiler stat limit, or at least helps it stay below the limit for more of the time. For this to work a lot of things have to be right... The boiler stat must be set high enough or it gets in the way and causes cycling. The pump speed must also be fast enough to suck the heat out of the boiler and put it in the buffer. The buffer must also be big enough and the stats on the buffer must be set up to so that the capacity is used (having a big fuel tank on a car is a waste if you always fill it up when it drops below 90% full). It took me awhile to tune up our system. When first installed it cycled so much the average output was too low to heat the house when it was very cold outside. I ended up fitting a bigger pump and smaller jets in the boiler. That pretty much eliminated cycling.

I have 80mm under our UFH and would go for more next time.