Temp

I had Ryobi Expand-It (petrol) range for 8 years. Broke several of their hedge trimmer attachments and third party metal versions but my hedge is a natural hedge with branches as thick as your thumb so I was abusing it somewhat. Eventually had issues with loss of compression and hard starting. Not sure if I didn't let it warm up (micro sieze) or if carbon build up broke off and scored the bore. Apparently this is common with many makes. If they get hard to start buy a compression tester 😞 Replaced with a Stihl 4 stroke petrol unit a few years ago. Horribly expensive but its a beast. I started with just a motor unit as the Ryobi attachments fit and I still had a working Ryobi pole saw, strimmer etc. Then got the Stihl hedge trimmer attachment. The result is quite a long and heavy hedge trimmer. I think I even fitted a shorter shaft and it's still quite long. Gives you a good work out. A multi tool hedge trimmers might be too big and unwieldy for a small hedge? If you need a strimmer attachment I strongly recommend the Echo Speed Feed head as its so easy to reload the line compared to some other makes. They do a universal model that comes with adaptors to fit most makes of strimmer. So my strimmer set up is now a Stihl motor, Ryobi strimmer attachment fitted with an Echo head. Works very well. Trigger would be proud.

https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation-boards/insulation-technical-hub/articles-and-advice/what-is-the-difference-between-a-warm-pitched-roof

If building a house with a low pitch roof (so no prospect of a room up there) then you could consider a cold loft/cold roof design. This has the insulation at joist level not rafter level.

Assuming there is a room in the roof or might be in future.. Warm roof has the insulation above the rafters (eg rafters are on the warm side). Cold roof has the insulation between or below rafters (eg rafters are on, or partly on, the cold side of insulation). By that definition a warm roof is usually deeper overall. Cold roof has options... a) Ventilated void - if the membrane is NOT vapour permeable there must be a 50mm ventilated void below it. Typically the membrane drapes/sags 25mm into this void to prevent water being trapped above tile battens. b) No void and counter battens - if the membrane is vapour permeable you can reduce or eliminate the void. If you eliminate the void by fully filling between rafters you should add counter battens on the outside to raise the tile battens off the flat membrane and allow water to run down. If the membrane is in contact with insulation (eg Cold roof with no void/drape) then you should use a membrane approved for that as not all are. A room in the roof design (aka warm loft) can have any of the roof types above. I would go with cold roof b) as the counter battens add 25mm but you avoid the 50mm void. So overall this saves you 25mm for a given thickness of insulation. If height isn't a problem I would build a warm roof with as much of the insulation above the rafters as possible. If you want to build a hybrid (some above and some between) then you must get an Interstitial condensation risk analysis done. I believe the recommended ratio 2/3rds above and 1/3 between. If you put more between the rafters that "moves" the top of the rafters nearer the cold side increasing condensation risk.

They will be changing the name soon to Rubble.

Started planning the tile layout in Fusion360. After some hours the best arrangement I've come up with puts some holes fairly close to the edges of one or two tiles. The big vertical slot is for the mixer valve. The smaller circles are 25mm holes for body jets and shower hose. Tried moving tiles around but that doesn't look good elsewhere. Think I best get some nice new holes saws 🙂

Might be worth taking if apart to see if the 230V version is just a 24V model with a 230V to 24V power supply circuit.

I think I agree in the situation here.

For electrics we waited untill the house was up then I marked up a set of plans. It's easier when you can walk around it pretending to turn light switches on and off etc.

Duplicate post deleted.

Not sure I follow exactly where the edge is but there are border tiles available. Just check they are the same make and colour as sometimes two companies use similar names.. https://www.tiles-direct.com/wall-tiles-c26/retro-metro-tiles-c1065/retro-metro-sage-border-5cm-x-15cm-wall-tile-p1832/s1832?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=retro-metro-sage-border-5cm-x-15cm-wall-tile&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&glCurrency=GBP&glCountry=GB&gclid=CjwKCAiAvaGRBhBlEiwAiY-yMBOKdrFL3PpHyFjiP0Hd8aGQSs5P4zS05QvSmYlKCg9fmKc01lZ3TxoCK2IQAvD_BwE https://www.dantotsu.co.uk/wall-tiles-c26/retro-metro-c1065/retro-metro-sage-border-5cm-x-15cm-wall-tile-p1832 Years ago companies sometimes made a version of a standard tile but with one rounded edge for this situation-but think they are rare now?

Oh sorry I miss read your question. For some reason I thought you were talking about pressure testing the drains. Face palm.

I think this might be relevan? May only apply to big wind farms? https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/granting-a-necessary-compulsory-electricity-wayleave-guidance-for-applicants-and-landowner-and-or-occupiers

To check if you have Permitted Development Rights you need to look at the previous planning grants and check with the planners to see if the whole area is subject to an "Article 4 direction" that removes them. Green Belt isn't Article 2(3) land so if they haven't been removed i think you just follow the Technical Guide sections on outbuildings. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance With farmhouses its not always obvious what is "garden" and what is "agricultural" land. If the garage isnt obviously in the garden then there might be an issue.

Its the other way around. AAV open to let air into the pipe and close to prevent sewer gas leaking into the room.

I don't suppose you feel like lifting their tiles and tucking lead under them.

So essentially you are trying to screw diagonally through a batten into the corner of the stud. If you use some really sharp screws that screwfix sell that shouldn't be a problem. Can be hard predrilling the batten on the diagonal. Id either bash the corner with a hammer to make a flat point for the drill or i suppose run them through the table saw to cut a corner off. Then your drill starts easily on the flat surface.

We had a holiday company go bust on us. They closed on a Friday. On Sunday the travel agent called to say they had done a deal with the credit the credit card co and could offer us an alternative immediately with nothing to pay or they could process the refund from the card Co. Just had to do a form giving the agent the authority to deal with the credit card Co on our behalf. New holiday sorted on the Monday. Anyone that paid by debit card had a much harder time.

So if your plan is to propose a massive caravan under permitted development and at the same time reapply for PP for an extension you should be careful what you call the rooms.

No that would mostly be prevented by the rules on "change of use". You can put a caravan on your driveway or back garden but it's use must be "incidental" not "ancillary" ... https://plainview.co.uk/news/ancillary-vs-incidental

As I understand it the best insulation known to man is Aerogel (fragile and expensive) followed by PIR. So I think I'd go for 100mm PIR with UFH pipe in screed. To get down to 50mm screed I think you need a liquid screed. Be careful of Anhydrite screeds as they can need more prep before tiling onto them. Here it mentions screed with UFH at 35mm. Wonder how you get the pipes flat enough. https://www.easymixconcrete.com/news/types-of-screed/

Im not sure I'd bother switching to auto balancing. I thought perhaps you already had them and one was fault or something. Last time they came up on the forum it was about problems with them.

So I have acquired some 600x400 limestone for a bathroom floor and walls. Which bond pattern do you think looks better? On walls.. straight, brick bond or 1/3rd stagger? On the floor.. parallel with walls? diagonal? Only thing I can't really do is diagonal on the walls because the ceiling slopes and its not 45 degrees. I'm up for a challenge!

Found a German site that says 5-10 day delivery so they probably don't carry stock either. https://www.vigedo.de/hausautomations-systeme/smart-home/systemgeraete/112421/salus-thb2430-stellantrieb-mit-automatischen-hydraulischen-abgleich-24v-24v If you really get stuck I suspect it would be possible to use a relay or solid state relay to control a 240V version using the 24V signal your wiring centre provides.

Its common to have a row of shorter tiles at the eaves and ridge. These are needed to waterproof the gaps between tiles. You can just make them out on the diagram. Not sure about shingles.