le-cerveau

That is Restricted Access and 26T!!

Panasonic Generation H (the new ones), 9kW Split

Just shows how complex all the interactions become and there is no one solution as each piece of equipment has it's own specific requirements! My split requires a minimum volume of 50L and can cope with 260L before an additional expansion tank is required!

Yes, 500L up to 2000L but the first one is available in 200 & 300 L options

As an alternative you could charge the TS via a PHE from the ASHP (no AF in the TS) , UFH from TS, it however requires an extra pump but you get the rapid recovery due to the PHE!

To summarize (I think as the SunAmp PCM34 cells aren't available, even though I have 2), you want a cylinder with 2/3 coils: Then it depends how you plumb it together. (I would consider 3 coils as at the temperatures this will operate at you need maximum surface area so run the two coils (upper and lower) in sequence. At a ΔT of 5oC (ASHP normal) you will only get about 5kW from these sort of coils so use two and/or increase the ΔT to 10oC. Option 1: (Minimises Antifreeze in a Monoblock install) DHW from the DHW coil. ASHP from the other coil(s). UFH from the tank. Option 2: (Maximises recovery rate) DHW from the DHW coil. UFH from the other coil(s). ASHP to the tank. Option 3: (Maximises DHW pre-heat flow) DHW from the tank. ASHP to the DHW coil. UFH from the other coil(s). Option 4: (Install a Split ASHP, professional installer required) only DHW coil required as ASHP and UFH can share inhibitor, no antifreeze required. DHW from coil. ASHP and UFH to tank.

I have two manifolds, each with their own pump, fed by one TMV (because I can also cool the system so that bypasses the TMV in cooling mode) I have one thermostat (2 actually heating and cooling) that operates a 3-port valve to select water from the TMV (provide heat at 26oC, I may be able to dial this down) or towards the cooling circuit (constant circulation). This does not provide cooling unless the cooling thermostat operates and then the ASHP injects cool water into the circuit. I have a 9kW ASHP that provides low grade heat to 2 x PCM34 Sunamp batteries (buffer tanks with DHW pre-heat) and a boiler for DHW top up (PCM58 cells) these may be replaced by traditional SunAmps (Electric re-heat) (in the future) as I have 10kW of PV!

Your probably best with 2 manifolds, as you will add a good length onto each run that is above/below the manifold and have a bugger of a time balancing for the different flows taking into account the flows up/down hill. Are you running the whole house at one temp (PH style) of zoning the loops with thermostats this will affect your final decision also? Are you including towel rails (I didn't and should have) you can run them of a separate manifold at a different temperature (control strategy). Unless it is a tiny house this is easily manageable with low temp UFH, we are about 4kW in 400m2 PHPP calculation and 5 human bodies and white goods are keeping the house warm.

My PV array(s) is(are) finally commissioned, they have been on the roof since November last year! Two reasons for the delay: Mains power required in the house (Available Feb), also final second fit electrical, no extensions! Internet required!!! The installers tried setting it up at the end of March but failed! They returned last week when I was there and basically I did the commissioning work!!! (Following the instructions). I have 37 x 280W Monocrystalline panels JAM6(K)-60-280-4BB (Chinese from the supplier) each coupled to an enphase micro-inverter. These are wired via 3-phase cable (house is 3-phase) into their own breaker board, then onto the main board via an import meter. Teh array is split up 10 panels SE and 27 SW, each array has it's own breaker and there is a noise suppressor in the box also. An enphase envoy is wired in next to the breaker box and communicates with micro-inverters via powerline and the world by my Wi-Fi (on an isolated subnet). The problem was that the envoy (brains) could not communicate with the micro-inverters so the system was not coming online. The installers commissioning the system were stumped so after about an hour I went up into the attic to help, First of all connecting the system to my Wi-Fi (not the temporary BT Hub from build), then I downloaded the installer app (iPhone), they logged me on, and following the instruction on my laptop set up the array details (all micro-inverters were serial numbered) and set it to work. Remarkably all micro-inverters were detected but only 2/3 communicating (powerline problems), by this time it was past support hours so they planned to come back the next day. In the meantime my electrician came in to do some odd jobs, I explained the issue to him and he suggested that they take a power feed directly off their breaker board (behind their noise suppressor) for the envoy rather than use the socket that is on the attic ring. When the installers returned the next day, I passed on the advice which they confirmed with the enphase support people and fitted the dedicated socket, unsurprisingly all bar one reported in and that one has since done so. My array is now up and running: It can be viewed here: https://enlighten.enphaseenergy.com/pv/public_systems/yYpm1387793/overview?preview=1 I have managed over 8kW in the current garbage weather and over 40kWh on one day! As an aside I had to have an interim EPC produced before the array was commissioned to enable full FIT rate claim, the EPC will be subsequently re-assessed (with Solar) to give a final realistic figure. It is a quirk of the system (designed for retrofit not new-build) that if you commission a system without a lodged EPC, you get a FIT rate of about 10% of the current puny rate, but you cannot include Solar in your EPC until it is commissioned, so you end up doing it twice!!

That is what mine does, though I am using the heating function to heat my PCM34 cells, I have a ΔT of 5oC for the heating and the ASHP pushes water out at 5oC above the return temp until it gets to the desired temp or stops getting a heating signal.

Not heard anything yet!

Same for us, 3 phase isolator above the meter, massive box with a 90 degree turn handle, up the garage wall into the ground floor ceiling void, 10m along the hall and up into the plant room for the CU.

This is the limit of my knowledge, the tails from the meter to your Consumer Unit need to be less than 2m (I think) otherwise you need an isolator (I have on as it is a long run from my Metre to CU). As for ducting/chasing in I think a lot of that is personal., but if ducted there are rules.

If you have an external meter box the supply does not enter the house but is external and what goes into the house is done by your electrician. YOu underground duct, as required to the meter box, teh DNO fit their gear, your supplier fits the meter, then your electrician fits remainder. (Over simplification and an expert will be along). You can go internal (I managed, but my supply is 3-phase). DOn't know about spraying the box though!

It is 3.93 (0-10kW) or 4.15 (10-50kW) p/kWh for systems connected Jan-Mar 18 and 5.03 p/kWh for export compared with the 40-50 p/kWh for generation in 2011!! Crossed with SteamyTea Who knows what it will be post 31 Mar.

Haven't moved in yet, 2 week away!

All 6 of my toilets are Duofresh, however they are hooked up to the MVHR not the Duofresh system, get the duofresh frame and install, take off the pipe up the side and connect to the MVHR exhaust. details in my blog.

Be careful about crossover with phone cables, also some cables aren't standard BT connectors. You want a BT to RJ45 (RJ11 will fit but is not snug) cable, then at the other end you want an RJ45 to BT (Master/PBX changer) it provides the ringer circuity to make a 2 wire phone work. If you want to connect more than one phone then you need to serially connect the pins on the patch panel, I have a separate patch panel to cross connect the BT network points, BT in to the panel and the other 7 (16 port with 8 wired together) out to the network sockets that will have phone's on (REN4 limit). I got my cables from https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/ other sources available. For a butter description on how it works look for 'Mr telephone' on Youtube.

Why do you want a water tank, surely you should be looking at mains pressure for you domestic water. Grey water (shower discharge) (why) the collection would be subterranean, you could put a header in the attic as it is for supplying toilets etc but again pressure supply from the tank.

You have the same problem as a plug in powerline adaptor, just neater. For a self builder it is a no brainer to just install Network points, for a retrofit then it is neater than the plug in adaptors, however, if they are not on the same circuit, you can get problems, if there is noise on your mains, you can get problems, I doubt it is compatible with Sky PoE (more problems). The Wi-Fi will also be limited, just by antenna size alone! Cleaner is separate Data (with PoE if required) from mains and proper AP's I am the extreme with 72 data ports (internal and external) , 4 x AP's, 2 x Layer 2 managed switches, a Router/Firewall and separate modem.

I am fitting (my electrician) Aico detectors and the control switch, all hardwired and interconnected (no wireless in the fire safety system). The Gira ones appear to be just detectors, designed for battery operation that can be fitted to mains with an adaptor plate, but then the networking is by a separate 2-core networking cable (KNX), rather than the UK standard of 4 core fire rated cable. https://www.gira.com/en/gebaeudetechnik/produkte/sicherheit/rauchmelder.html You would be committing to that type of alame and not the UK standard, especially for replacements.

PH recommends approx 30m3/h per person, which results in lower that Building Regs rates.

Gas, Water, out to electric gates.......

I did originally consider the NW gable, the bit you can see and my only gable, but it was a long run and the roof was just easier. No inline filters yet, but I may add them (in the attic) in due course.

Here it is, yes there is a section of guttering missing, awaiting arrival of final bit. The two on the right are exhaust and the 2 on the left inlet, nearly 4m apart. They are UBBINK UB16, Universal Tile Vents, supplied by CVC with a 180mm adaptor to go direct into my 180mm EPS ducting. This is the NE face of the roof, so less useful for Solar and sheltered from the prevailing SW.