le-cerveau

For the CVC system, what I can see i think is the UB206 manifold: http://www.ubbink.com/getmedia/ea917989-3cc9-42bf-8faa-7313b2a5fac4/AE_Dbox_UB_206_INT-EN.pdf.aspx?ext=.pdf and AE48C ductwork, http://www.ubbink.com/getmedia/7679adc1-08f9-4bc6-a9fa-89cec8f66232/Ubbink_Air-Excellent_single.pdf.aspx?ext=.pdf. Check the www.ubbink.com website, far more info the www.ubbink.co.uk

First question is how self build is this, I installed mine myself (with support) (see my blog), the Ubbink gear is relatively easy to work with. The instillation plan is their best guess, if you know what you want design it yourself, it is not that complicated and you know your house better that they do from plans. Intake and exhaust officially should be 300mm apart, I put mine 3m apart. The CVC system is just an indication, it does not include actual duct-run design (in the notes) you pay for that. The BPC one appears to show duct runs however they have an extra run (colour extract, labeled supply) not in the calculations, so it needs checking. Upstairs bed supplies appear to be near the door, should be much further away. I would go back to both with questions: CVC: intake and exhaust proximity. BPC: supply terminal locations in bedrooms, Red duct going to above, ending in gallery, not in calculations. There is a certain amount of throwing something out and get response, any more effort costs time and money and they want a commitment. I can't remember accurately and I no longer have the quotes (easily to hand) but I think my installation costs were in the same region for 2 large units 400m of ducting and around 30 terminals so I suspect there is some negotiation there, this is such a small install (relatively) I shouldn't cost that much. Once you start playing yourself you see so many other options and can save a fortune on instillation

Got mine from CVC, though I get stuff that isn't shown on the website Ubbink ducting.

Personally, I would build a little shed as @Russell griffiths did, and make it large enough for all utilities and your bis store @JSHarris did this i believe, it resolves all problems, saves re-connection fees and is future proof. We didn't, just a temporary kiosk and I regret it now as I am currently in the mire of Utilities re-connecting to the house from the kiosk (or road for GAS)

THis was my architects way of de-massing the roofline, we also reduced the eves size, to reduce mass.

The NW elevation on our plan shows the neighbouring rooflines and edges of their property, this was based on the survey of the original house, if you had the same detail and including hedges to show visibility and even perspectives from the road it could help. Also photographs showing current with an overlay of the new to show impact if any! I was frustrated by having to hip the roof, it add complication and lost me good Solar PV area, it also means my attic storage though large is not as well laid out as it could have been, but we can't have it all.

We had similar issues, see my blog part 2: Where the planning monkey we were working with didn't like it! Ultimately my architect debunked all her issues and it was rubber stamped by the senior planner. It would appear you can demonstrate no significant change of impact as viewed from the street. Do you have a full survey, this was pivotal in our ability to argue our case as it had the edges and heights of the neighbouring properties on it for comparison and argument, thought I did have to lower my roof to 25 degrees and 22.5 degrees.

Welcome to another Cumbrian. Did you consider knockdown and re-build, in the long run you get a better house and does not cost as much as you would think.

All the details are on the Western Power Website (Your DNO) this link has the relevant bits: https://www.westernpower.co.uk/docs/connections/Moving-Supply-Guide.aspx You can have an internal Meter, see page 2. Trench details are on page 5. How you get the cable from your underground trench to the meter will depend on your circumstances, without a layout I cannot comment.

@JSHarris has a good spreadsheet, however you need to know the make up (u-value) of the floor, walls and ceiling, temperatures of adjacent rooms/outside, u-values for windows and doors, areas for them all.. There are lots of heating calculators out there but without the specifics inputs they are 'gestimates' at best.

@graeme m Personally I would go for UFH every time, I currently live in a house with UFH in the bathrooms It make a huge difference.

Some general calculations based on what you have provided: Occupancy requirements 21l/s (3 bed) Area requirement 30.3 l/s (101m2 (110 - terrace) Extract requirement (37 l/s) (Kitchen, 2 bath & utility?) So you need a unit that can do 30.3 l/s (109.08 m3/h) continuously and boost to 37 l/s (133.2 m3/h). The standard advice is to oversize to reduce fan speed (noise) and improve efficiency (% heat recovery). You need one that does at least 150 m3/h, but I would recommend 180-200 m3/h. At this size you can get units that fit in the overhead (200mm deep). I would also consider can you get the unit under the stairs, a more central location, shorter dect runs. At the size you are looking at every manufacture has a suitable version, some with distribution boxes attached direct to the units (Brink Sky units to name one), so it will probably depend on your overall system, as I would get the whole thing from one supplier unit and ductwork. With a total of 5 supply and 4 extract ducts, the unit will probably be the most expensive bit (mine was opposite 400m+ of ductwork). I would have a system with automatic summer bypass. Post heater, see @JSHarris blog about air heating (not considered the best as it heats the wrong rooms, you want the wet rooms warmer), personally I would heat the rooms as required and just use the MVHR as heat recovery (loss limitation) and ventilation. There are others here with units in your range and can give personal recommendations, I have 2 x Brink Renovent 400 plus units (the other end of the spectrum).

This would seem to be your best option in the long term. Thinking in decades rather than years, get it right now and avoid issues in the not so distant future. You can also run the separate data duct.

Here is my foundation, the walls lock into the foundations as they are the same manufacturer, also the slab is completely over engineered. 16-063-01B Foundation Layout.pdf

Nick will answer when he can, but the boiler will not be working as hard, and if it is condensing is more likely to be in condensing mode. Also you are less likely to overrun on temp and it should be more comfortable.

@Alphonsox is correct you cannot claim for an electric opener, however if the door is supplied with an integrated electric opener then this can be claimed as part of the whole door, unless it is itemised individually. My windows have integrated blinds, in theory these can't be claimed for (curtains/blinds) but they are part of the window as a whole so just form part of the overall window cost. The moral of the story is buy fully integrated systems that can't be itemised individually.

Classic of the architect sadrawing and saying the engineers will sort it out!

The range is mind boggling depending on your requirements. What are you flow requirements, what additional features do you require, more info required before people can give reasonable responses.

Have you considered ALU clad UPVC, more durable and usually cheaper, they can colour it as you require so it doesn't look like that cr*p people installed not so long ago (and still in some areas). You just need to ensure the frames are correctly insulated.

My house will be an all RCBO (stand fast fire alarms and fridge/freezer circuit), but it is over the top specified 16 way 3-phase board (which gave me spare capacity) and i think the electrician said he was going to install a 24 way board anyway, so I will have the space/capacity to do whatever we require.

Who prepared the Building Regs submission? If it was the SE then I agree sack him as nearly all of this should have been included!

They do but it is not available in the UK!! I tried.

Re looking at it surely you would want the slab that is over the basement enclosed in insulation so the break would be where the slab is on-top of the basement walls, if the slab extends beyond that. So insulate over the slab to the Ground Floor Walls, so the slab contributes to the "Thermal Mass" (I will be shouted at). Then only put UFH pipes in the appropriate sections of slab. I suspect it will end up being precast concrete spans as cast in situ could be difficult for that!

My builders just fed the outflow directly into the drain so no worry about emptying buckets.

Our slab has one, this is the cross section of it from the SE drawings, it separates the house from the garage. As you see the garage has thick ICF as an internal wall against the house. The Garage also has a variable level (slope to the garage door) to cover Building Regs requirements, as we have a level access into the house.