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Use a PCM34 UniQ fed from Genvex as a buffer for UFH and DHW pre heat, the cells take water at 45C. (This is what my ASHP does). The PCM58 cells do the hot water top up.

The UniQ eHW is the way SunAMp now sell their units, they no longer make the PV, though retailers may have them. They have a unified range with/without heater elements, PCM34/58/73, 3/6/9/12/30/60 kWh size with various control strategies. You state your need and your heating engineer selects the appropriate units from the range.

I don't think that would be an option, to use MVHR you need a reasonably airtight house otherwise it just doesn't make sense! If you have a reasonably airtight house you need to have the supply air (Building regs) as well as extract! If you just have extract then you need a leaky house!

Additional to this I have found the design and install guide that has much more detail on it on how to select what systems and how to mix and match: http://www.bublshop.co.uk/files/pdf/pdf2040.pdf I found my system in there though mine pre-dates the UniQ and the packaging is different!

If you have a shading problem then you really need micro-inverters/optimisers. You could (in theory) put 4-6 tiles in a string to each micro-inverter and plan them to minimise the shading impact but cost wise when I looked at it a few years ago roof integrated panels were significantly cheaper than tiles, and if you still have the shading issues micro-inverters are designed with panels in mind. As to capacity, i fitted the maximum that would fit, nearly 10kW. I have not yet started to work out import/export rations etc but intend to set up a monitoring system some how.

The interesting question would be over a year what is your import vs export? CAn you really have too much? there will always be locations that cannot generate the required load (high rise) and those that generate more, the bigger question is smoothing out the supply or buffering the excess. WHilst battery technology is still improving, domestic smoothing will be limited, the DNO/generators are in the best position to shunt excess generation to a storage facility for latter use, be it battery/hydro/....

I have a Panasonic unit, 9kW 3-Phase. They do 9, 12 & 16kW in single and 3-phase options in most models.

Depends on the type, a split will have a maximum distance between the Fan unit and internal unit, ours was 3m - 30m though there are performance penalties Heating 9.25kW - 8.1kW and cooling 7kW - 5.25kW (though cooling capacity max was at 7m). A mono-block (simple install unit) it depends how well you insulate the pipework as to heat loss/gain (equivalent Mono block to my split has no limit on distance and no performance figures suggesting it is down to the installation).

You need to connect the cistern to the extract for that. I did it based on @JSHarris and others designs!

FIber is for backbone, long distance work. You get 1Gb form Cat 6 (properly terminated) and you can get 10Gb from Cat 7/7A though you will struggle for find any network gear to run at that speed. The fiber (if you have it) coming into your house will go into a modem and then it come out on 802.xxx twisted pair (Cat 5/6/7/7a) If you can get 1 Gb you are not in the UK but the far east! Most network switches (the box that connects everything together) are limited to 1Gb connections, the new XG (10Gb) stuff is only just coming on line and it is still wired fir twisted pair. Just get decent (solid not stranded) Cat6 cable installed, terminated, tested and guaranteed and you will be fine. Also your TV, Blu-Ray,.... all have a 8P8C connector (the ones you are used to). Just get a good 802.af PoE switch and proper cabling and you will be fine. I have had a look at the data sheets and it is POF Plastic Optical Fiber, so not usual fiber, and is limited and can't even reach the speeds of Cat7A 10Gb twisted pair. It still has conventional connectors at the user end, just a waste of money. I have fiber in my setup but only between my router and switches, this saves on my standard ports as they are all allocated. Only one of my switches is 10Gb capable the router and other one switch only 1Gb fiber anyway. A 10Gb router costs over $1000!

It would be an interesting research project, what is more efficient: ASHP alternating operating/defrost. ASHP reducing power to prevent frosting and direct electric backup to compensate. Obviously it is heavily environmentally and ASHP design dependant but some general trends that could be applied to making the units more efficient.

D-Link now do a Mesh extender system with seamless roaming SSID COVR-nnnn. This gets rid of the multiple SSID problem, but it is still a mesh network, using up capacity to transmit between extenders, however if you are not tech savvy should be a simple solution. Otherwise you want a unified system D-Link DWL-nnn, Ubiquity range, ....... (look in the business area on vendor sites)

You can get an Enthalpy heat exchanger for your unit, sell pages 19/20 of your Install/Operation guide, that would help.

Our external render is direct onto the ICF blocks.

If it is a new property you are allowed to contact openreach directly, do that as BT and the other providers are useless. WHy speak to the chimp when you are allowed to speak to the organ grinder. Get the line physically installed then speak to the providers.

The MVHR process (heat exchange) removes moisture from the air (heating it although only slightly) (hence condensate drain) so it will dry the incoming air. If it is dry outside anyway it will only increase this. Helios http://www.heliosfans.co.uk/products do humidification units (select the last option under accessories) but will be expensive!

In theory yes, however my contractors batenned, boarded then plastered. Easier for running cables, depends on how much space (volume) you have can afford to loose.

Yes, but not all single phase ASHP have this, particularly older models, and some imports.

Getting the supply (DNO): Ours was easy, the pole that fed the original house had 3-phase power on it (4 open conductors) and was fed from underground just in front of our house so our new underground supply was simply spliced from the underground cable and fed to the site box (initially). Replacing the meter(Supplier): More difficult because as soon as you mention 3-phase to suppliers they look at you blankly (on the phone), I ended up with one of the big six, however I will be changing in the near future so I will see how the other suppliers cope now I have a meter. PV: You can fit more before exceeding the G83 limits 3.68kW per phase, I have nearly 10kW of PV all within the G83 limits. G59 has more stringent rules and is not as widely available, however you can get up to 17kW per phase with approved G83 type equipment but that will depend on your DNO and the current loading in your area. PV(Cons): Battery technology is geared, currently, to single phase domestic situations, you can put batteries on your 3-phase system, and they will supply each phase individually however they will not supply 3-phase equipment as each battery-inverter needs to be phase locked with the others, this is not generally available in the domestic market yet, under development. The Tesla Powerwall 3 may be 3-phase, due out this year sometime. Appliances: We have only 2 3phase appliances and a spare feed. The ASHP is 3-phase, allows soft start, if you have ever been to a US home when the AC starts up and everything dims for a second that is what soft start avoids. Also, the bigger ASHP’s are only 3-phase though ours 9kW was available in either. Our lift is also 3-phase, also it is a lot larger than a standard domestic, more resilience than one designed for just a wheelchair. Also rotating machinery (Lift and ASHP) benefit from 3 phase power as bigger motors tend to be designed 3-phase (make sure they are wired up correctly!). I also have a 3-phase supply to the garage with a 32A breaker on it for car charging, terminated at a switch in the garage. This will allow a 22kW charger if required (tesla supercharger not that I can afford one). Electricians: My electrician had no problem with 3-phase as he also does commercial work, however not all domestic electricians will be happy with it. If you put two normal (single phase) lives together normally nothing happens, however if you put two 3-phase lives together you could blow the system if they are from different phases (200V potential between them) so everything has to be labeled and you can’t just poke around in things. Why: The biggest reason was potential power consumption we have 2 x 7kW induction hobs (one at normal height and one at wheelchair height) 3 ovens (up to 4kW each) so if someone (highly unlikely) put the kitchen into full power mode it would kill a normal single phase domestic supply! Ordinarily we don’t draw anywhere near the power to do that but plan for the worst. Living with it: In reality those in the house don’t notice or care about the 3-phase supply, they get 230v out of a socket.

Yes, word of warning you cannot disable all the lights (link activity etc) so ensure it is somewhere where the blinking won't be an issue.

If you want a fanless PoE switch teh UniFi 8 port ones are fanless and you can then leave out the injectors.

It all depends on your budget, and what performance you require!! Simple plug in Wi-Fi boosters will give you coverage as the cost of performance because to get signal from your router to the booster you are eating up performance for the router Wi-Fi and every additional (from router) and subsequent (from previous booster) will also sap performance but it is simple. Next is to utilise an old/spare router as an access point (and switch) it will take in a copper feed from your main router and just push out it's own SSID (Wi-Fi logon name), devices should transfer between the two, though not seamlessly! Best performance (highest price) is a unified (central control) system where all the access points have the same SSID and your devices seamlessly roam between them, all the manufacturers do them (enterprise grade equipment) and their performance far exceeds the general consumer equipment but a certain amount of effort and know how is required. I have two Ubiquity UniFy systems, in the house we have just finished there is a DrayTek Modem (turn ADSL/VDSL into computer) a gateway router, two switches (1 x 48 and 1 x 24 (PoE)) and 4 access points, 420m2 spread over 2 floors with 350mm of concrete/screen between floors. In the other house a simple router/8 port switch and access point that covers the whole house. Ubiquity UniFy system is easy to use and fairly intuitive.

If you look at the original site the supply them in either wet or electric versions!

This is all I have to hand, the first one is the 2400 wide from the outside. Second one shows both inside, this one is 2000 wide, you can just see the 2400 round the corner. These are internorm units triple glazed with internal blind's

ARe you prepared to have a mullion in the center of the opening? If so then you can get fully opening windows each pain 1200 wide, I have them. I have one window that is 2400 wide and 1800 high with 2 pains and a single mullion