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  1. 6 points
    Bit of a late reply on this thread but the grass and weather came up well for our big day.
  2. 4 points
    Well little update. Had the foul drain installed over the last week, 2.5m down in the road and 7m of piperun. A week to complete except for the manhole access on my ground. lots more digging and 1.85m of concrete rings installed my me and my wife. done bloody well I might add. Haha. Just wanting to spread some happiness with progress. 👍🏻👍🏻
  3. 2 points
    The evidence you have sounds adequate, to me. I would need to see the decision that you refer to, but a caravan within the definition of the Caravan Act is not 'development' in itself, and from what you have yourself described there has been no associated development of significance, so the CLUED application is not actually seeking a Lawful Development Certificate - it's seeking a Certificate of Lawful Use. It would normally be for the lawfulness of siting a single caravan, within the definition given in the Caravan Act (which does include maximum sizes) anywhere within the red line on the application site. Note, however, that it still wouldn't give you permission/lawfulness for any ancillary development, so you'd still need to tread very carefully on that score. It may be that the other application you refer to included ancillary development, and that the there were other constraints imposed on the Certificate to reflect that. Note also that the use has to remain continuous for the lawfulness to be maintained... technically, if you moved the caravan off for a few weeks (or even a few days), it could be argued that the continuity of use had been allowed to lapse, and you'd be back to square one. Even the two short trips to festivals might be argued to breach that continuity, so you need to be very careful what you tell the LPA on that score. Similarly, the statement that you want to tow it off site and replace it rings alarm bells, and would need to be managed in such a way as to maintain continuity. The LPA may not care, over much, of course, but it's best to play things on the safe side. As always, I know that there's a tendency on this forum to think that it's clever to try to save a few quid by avoiding the use of professionals, but I would always urge that the risks outweigh the benefits in this respect... it's only clever until you f**k something up completely.
  4. 2 points
    I just wanted to say hi before delving into asking planning advice. I have done quite a bit of small scale residential development in the past and been very hands on with design, planning, project and site management - but not formally trained in any of those. I've been building a little self sufficient cabin by myself on a hill top in deepest darkest Wales (logistical nightmare) where I have also planted 5000 trees and at some time in the not too distant future I plan to start a barn conversion there (planning is in place). I love all things small architecture and building. I'm fairly pragmatically energy conscious - or at least have aspirations to be. I make a lot of mistakes - and occasionally even learn from some of them. These days a lot of my time is spent looking after my 2 year old.
  5. 1 point
    Much has been written about the cost per m2 mans folk massaging figures We where due to take delivery today of the last of the landscaping materials Last big spend Which prompted my wife to go through the spread sheets and also with our vat claim being paid last Monday Get a final total of our spend While Ive kept track I have always said about roughly Hope to Well everything has been accounted for All fees and right down to tubes of silicone The only thing admitted was the purchase of the plot She has even included the materials I haven’t yet used on the quite expensive drive £14000 The grand total comes out at 812 per m2 If we had paid 10k for a kitchen instead of nearly double We would have dropped under the 800 Labour has been the key to keeping the costs down Or lack of it
  6. 1 point
    I went sort of half way, and set the base of our shower tray part way down below the level of the finished floor. I used 9mm marine ply as a sub-base for the tiles, glued and screwed to the OSB flooring, and fitted this after I'd put the shower tray in. The flooring is 12mm thick travertine, so, allowing for ~2mm of tile adhesive, the base of the shower tray ended up around 22mm lower. This left the top of the tray sticking up around 15mm above the finished floor. I did seal around the tray before fitting the marine ply, then sealed it again after fitting the marine ply and before laying the travertine, then ran a final seal around after finishing off the travertine. With luck I don't think it's likely to leak.
  7. 1 point
    Fantastic. We did our wedding DIY on a shoestring with help from friends and family. I think it helps make it special.
  8. 1 point
    Bastard of a detail to seal and maintain. Are you referring to a regular tray with an upstand?
  9. 1 point
    Bluntly, I wouldn't consider that type of property to be suitable for MVHR. Whatever the PassivHaus bunnies will try to tell you, the level of ACH and distribution of air circulation that you can achieve with MVHR is woefully inadequate even for very well insulated, modern properties (though in these the bigger problem is build up of pathogens rather than moisture). Using it in a property of yours' age and construction was never going to be a good idea: you need a LOT more ventilation than it can practicably deliver.
  10. 1 point
    Standby Power Consumption QUR323 dual: <0.3W
  11. 1 point
    If you post a picture during wall removal and after the steel is in place it would be of interest to lots of members.
  12. 1 point
    One of the things I wish I'd done when I bought our boiling water tap was get the model with the larger reservoir and thermostatic mixer option for feeding hot water to the tap. I only discovered that this was an option when the thing arrived and the instructions included details for installing the model that would supply hot water as well as boiling water. Ours is made by the people that make the Red for Grohe, I believe, as it seems nearly identical. I did notice that as soon as Grohe started to market the Red in the UK, Itho Daalderop seemed to stop selling their stuff here.
  13. 1 point
    QUR323 is 85-260V AC input. Doubt very much if it'll work on 12V AC. I'd say in fact it won't.
  14. 1 point
    Leave it alone. Regs only come into force if you change it or sell the property.
  15. 1 point
    Looks really great! Love the cable drum tables.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I'll try to dig out a better pic later. It's clad in Onduline. The roof was badly damaged this year and so whilst repairing I'm planning a little sleeping loft for my son - it was going to be pop up like my campervan roof but going to be rigid now.
  18. 1 point
    @Nick1c did you get chance to have a look round their clearance warehouse ..?? It’s an Aladdins cave of serious high end bathroom stuff at silly prices. Saw some great stuff in there but the risk is that it doesn’t all match. https://www.cphart.co.uk/waterloo-clearance/
  19. 1 point
    I have somewhat prematurely bought our bathroom stuff, it arrived in April & we are still looking at a hole in the ground! I originally planned to get it from Germany before brexit, rushing to beat the first deadline..... Having priced it up on Reuter & Megabad I spoke to C P Hart who had their sale on, initially about the sanitary ware, expecting it to be more expensive per unit, but save on carriage (we wanted Duravit & I think they are the UK importers so would have the biggest margin to play with). The prices on their website are very ‘reassuring’. In the end they price matched the Germans (minus basin taps & bottle traps) on an exchange rate of €1.18 : £1 with free carriage. If you can wait for their sale I would try the same approach, checking out bathroom shops for ideas in the meanwhile. A potential fly in the ointment is that, due to B******, Megabad weren’t exporting to the UK back then, Reuter still were, but I don’t know if that has changed.
  20. 1 point
    We fitted it about seven years ago so the designs have probably changed but the install was straightforward. Eclisse quality is good. Sorry about the dirty door and photo quality.
  21. 1 point
    We have a Eclisee with wood door. If you follow the instructions it goes fine. Watch out you don't overtighten the screws holding plasterboard to the frame. If they go in too far they can scratch the door.
  22. 1 point
    Amusing as this thread was initially and having followed it, I can't help thinking that you @zoothorn need to take some firm action with regards to your builder and the relationship you have with him otherwise your health, both physical and mental will suffer, if it hasn't already. I can't believe a builder will "bully " their client the way you are describing, if proper terms / discussions have been agreed upon. After all you are the person paying him. In basic terms building is no different to any other transaction - if you don't like it either don't pay or pay up and move on with another builder! After all, whatever it is you are doing with this builder clearly isn't working and it could only get worse as the build continues, it would seem. Failing that, ask someone you do know and trust to speak on your behalf. Surely you must have at least one person who can communicate for you - a sort of go between maybe? You are only at the foundation stage and already you are lurching from one precieved crisis to another, so, like @Russell griffiths has said - show us your plans etc so that suitable advice can be given from those on this forum. This might then provide you with more confidence etc. Otherwise it is going to be long and painful run up to Christmas!
  23. 1 point
    Not tricky at all. Email the man you're paying the money to and ask the questions you're worried about.
  24. 1 point
    Honestly, as a start, improve the lighting on your work area it makes a world of difference. Try and focus it on the weld area. Buy an ESAB Sentinel mask too if you've £200 ish to spare. Just look at the field of vision! You can get it air fed too: Who wouldn't want to look like this?
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    My roof design is different as it’s vented on both sides of the sarking. I just put the tin directly onto the sarking board. battens and counter battens are the way to go though. My roof is on a glorified shed so not trying to meet any specific standard, more aiming to prevent water getting in and if any condensation does get in then making sure it is well vented. It’s blowing a gale outside right now with the water blowing up the 45 degree roof..... if the closer strips were not in place between the ridge flashing and the tin then the water would blow right up under the ridge flashing and onto the roof membrane and then have to travel all the way down the roof under the tin and out into the gutters !!!!! The closures at the top are essential to prevent this. The bottom of the tin is within the gutter so rain can not get in and wind is minimal but load if ventilation as no closer strips.
  27. 1 point
    Good time to bury annoying neighbours under the concrete.....
  28. 1 point
    Because you are not mixing the rain in with the concrete the concrete will come in a truck, from the moment that truck leaves the yard that concrete will start to cure by the time it gets to your job it will be well on it’s way if it takes 30 minutes to unload the truck, and they get it all in by 10.30 you could lay bricks on it 24hours later that concrete will be bashed into shape with the end of a rake or at best a piece of wood, the finish will be rough at best and bloody atrocious at worst. you are not going to jump in the trench and mix the rain in, it will sit on top as the concrete cures the rain will just sit on top like oil sitting on top of water, the two will not combine if this was a finished floor it would be different.
  29. 1 point
    I used guttercrest looks the absolute dogs. Cheaper than that horrible lindab stuff.
  30. 1 point
    It’s a foundation mate not a finished floor, don’t panic
  31. 1 point
    Lighting. 2 way or more switching of HALL light as well as landing. My preferred make of switches and sockets is Scholmore Click Mode Run socket cables horizontally around the room from socket to socket, with a bit of slack, then if you decide you need an extra socket later it is easy to add.
  32. 1 point
    So they win/ I lose?? that's a feeble copout ProDave. never. this is -exactly- what this wretched bullying me is aimed at doing too no less (& anti-english 50% of it). Its my 1st house. You recall how attatched you were to your 1st house? Ive waited 25 yrs to get a 1st set of keys thanks to damn property prices in england -& Im nearly 50- I love it more than you'll ever know as a result. theyre 70 so, no instead I wait until they die 1st.
  33. 1 point
    No it is not your fault. It is the fault of the scroats that do this sort of thing. We should not have to live in a society where we have to baracade ourselves in like we are in Fort Nox. Lets hope the insurance do the decent thing and stump up for your losses.
  34. 1 point
    As @Declan52 says, the blender is set to 35c so the ASHP CoP is better.
  35. 1 point
    He means the water being pumped round the ufh is set to 35c and the actual room stat is set to 20.5c.
  36. 1 point
    I haven't installed a thermometer in my larder so can't give any detail (yet). We aren't living in the house (yet). But we are using the larder for some food stuffs, wine and storage for other stuff and it is significantly cooler than the house. It was delightfully cool during the brief heat wave in Aug. Ours is insulated but not heavily. Had a top vent and bottom vent to the outside. Is on a separate slab so no underfloor heating contamination via the slab. Has a passive door between it and the kitchen. It doesn't feel damp in there, but it is cool. And the key is it is north facing and literally never sees any sunshine. It is also under trees. I reckon its going to be brilliant. And exactly what I was aiming for. And a thermometer is on my Christmas list so will report progress.
  37. 1 point
    Norrsken, a bit pricey.
  38. 1 point
    Just a quick update for those interested in following the project. We have now installed the Izodom 2000 insulated raft foundation ready for our ISOTEX walls. We have a few details in the roof structure to finalise but we hope to be onsite with the blocks in mid to late September. Anyone who is interested in looking at the insulated slab let me know. Tom
  39. 1 point
    I had to deal with an old school building inspector who came in right at the end of our build. His first comment was that he'd never have accepted our passive slab, as he didn't like the fact that the house was sat on EPS. Thankfully that bit had already been signed off, but it does seem that inspectors can be both opinionated and ill-informed.
  40. 1 point
    I agree with Patrick above. However, i just dont have that gift, and i always end up winding them up. The truth is, i think our planning system is broken. The National and local policies are all written like laws. Open to being interpretated in many different ways. It's quite easy to have one planning officer who is ok with crown roofs, and one who is not, sitting next to each other in the office. I have a local planning officer, not young, who passed a large crown roof, 2 doors away, but told me 2 months later, that he would not allow them on mine. You are at there mercy, and whims, and that is just not right. Once you get a job with the council, you don't get sacked. You can spend your whole career going from department to department being rubbish. Don't feel too sorry for them. My highly educated, very clever daughter, (not my words. She was identified by a government dept at 12 as being so) joined a council. 30 in the department. After 2 months she advised the council that the dept could be run by 10 people with spare capacity. She advised that the 2/3rds of the people who consistantly worked from home, achieved 2 peoples work. She sugested a proformance pay structure, and no more home working. She identified that people working from home, were logged onto the computer system for as little as 12minutes a day. These people were earning in excess of 30k a year. A huge proportion of the money we put into the councils bank accounts is wasted. Sorry.
  41. 1 point
    I find this useful. Pipe Sizes and Dimensions Chart.doc
  42. 1 point
    50mm here on the original advice of @Nickfromwales. Bath, shower empty quicker and quieter. Basin is 32mm solvent weld into a reducer in a 50mm tee. Don't forget an anti siphon trap on the basin if you do this. Stops all that gurgling. Have to say my wastes flow like a dream so far. (Must check the hair trap in the wall drain... 🤮 )
  43. 1 point
    Excuse the naive question: doesn't that just treat the symptom?
  44. 1 point
    Flip side to that Joe, in my experience, the flow/speed is reduced in the bigger pipe so crud may not be washed down the pipe as good. I would not hesitate to use the bigger size though having replaced many 32mm runs which have become 3/4 blocked with solidified soap fats ect
  45. 1 point
    Interested in getting thoughts on extract for high kitchen utilisation..... my other half uses the kitchen (~4m x 4m, 2.7m ceiling) in a commercial capacity and we currently have a 'big boy bertazzoni' 😉 800m3/hr extract which makes some noise on full tilt! To be honest, it's never really used on full power, only on minimum when something is boiling on the hob. Useful the odd time on full power when things get smokey as folk above have mentioned, but there's also an openable window for those 'incidents'... I'm thinking 2 extract points would be a good idea here, perhaps one closer to the cooking source, plumbed into the back of the cooker hood (I can get at this through the chimney void behind it.) and one in the ceiling corner as per normal. Any thoughts? Still looking at sizing the unit, perhaps a Blauberg SB250 for our 3 bed semi (~110m2, 1 bathroom) which would be slightly oversized as we only need 39l/s as per the regs. I'm loving this forum, lots of useful information and tinkerings 🙂
  46. 1 point
    Hi All I want to be able to monitor exactly how much electricity my two eDual 9kw Sunamps are using. Ideally with the ability to log the data (but not essential). I'm not seeing this as a permanent requirement, just an initial testing/evaluation phase. So perhaps something with a CT clip that I could put round the live supply cable to each Sunamp (Would that work?)? Obviously one of the myriad of 13amp plug type units is going to be of no use. If you're interested in the reason why............. Well the Sunamps are just great in many ways but they have (in my view) a fundamental flaw. That being absolutely bugger all user feedback! Thanks to the (super simple) hack from @JSHarris I can now see if they are demanding power but thats pretty much your lot. How much power, how charged or discharged are they? Well you just don't know! In fact without Jeremy's hack they could be phoning home to ET and watching an episode of Friends on Netflix, you just wouldn't know, just a big dumb white box with its equally dumb little cream friend (the control box). I've gone down the "electric only" route. So my only source for DHW and UFH is the Sunamps. But what I need to do is work out the optimum use of solar and off peak electric. But, without getting a feel for how much demand (say) putting my UFH on for 2 hours is, that currently seems like an impossible task! If I heat my slab at night will I have hot water in the morning, if I'm relying only on solar charging alone? I'm not sure if I'm being overly clear but hopefully you get the drift!
  47. 1 point
    A 7 kW electric shower, with an incoming cold water temperature of 8 deg C, and a shower temperature of 38 deg C, will only give a flow rate of 3.35 litres per minute, so your guess of your shower having a 3 times greater flow rate, @ProDave, is pretty much spot on, I think! Electric shower flow rates really are pretty poor, IMHO, although having said that we managed with a 10 kW one for a few years (that would give a flow rate of around 4.785 litres per minute). The problem is that once you've experienced a shower that flows at around 10 litres per minute or more it's hard to switch back to one with 1/3rd of the flow rate.
  48. 1 point
    That fits well with the usual assumption of 3 kWh/person/day for DHW.
  49. 1 point
    Loving this thread! I'm just waiting for the passive house police to come along (and to be frank I've seen a few posts from current and past forum members along these lines). So don't forget some of the important rules: 1. Kill the cat, cat flaps will not be tolerated. 2. Remove or reduce all windows. I know you've bought a plot with a view but seriously saving on your energy bills is way more important than a view. 3. Make sure you go paperless for ALL bills etc. There is no way you are having a postbox. 4. Bury your partner under the patio. Far too risky that they may open a window. 5. Kill the dog. Can't think of a reason why other than enjoying yourself cannot be tolerated. OK, I'm having a bit of fun BUT you are going to drive yourself to the edge of insanity doing this self build lark, nothing is more stressful. SO BUILD YOURSELF A HOME NOT A HAUSE!
  50. 0 points
    My fault, I should have reversed the digger up to the container doors. The CSI came round pronto - said it could have been much much worse. Police came round, said it could have been much worse. PCSO came round and said it could have been much worse. Son (a local detective) said it could have been much worse. Thats Ok then, I feel much better now. Properly insured - but my last run in with a Loss Adjuster makes me absoultely determined to get the details bang on right. So thats me office-bound for the next few days, compiling a list of what I have and have not got left. I know, I know, I should get a proper problem and stop fussing about details. Its only tools. Advice given: Get a Screamer inside the house Get some PIR lights Dont challenge them, ring 999 and say "Burglary in progress." Hey Ho! Cant take a joke? Don't use power tools.
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