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Just been reading through my last post from end of May, and thinking how on earth did it take me so long to get to this one 🤣 A lot of blood, sweat, tears and swearing later, and i've finally finished the bathroom, which has exceeded what I imagined i might be able to create, I still keep walking in and thinking, naaa this can't be my bathroom. So another room brought to a close 🙂 Those panels on the wall were actually meant for the living room, sound absorbing panels for the home cinema, but despite having ordered 'Natural' and them looking off white on the internet, they came with a blue tinge to them so wouldn't have gone. When i asked for a refund, they didn't want them back and just sent me the money, so I thought they'd be useful in the bathroom, and have massively dampened the echo in there. Aside from not plastering the sloped ceiling, everything else you see internally i've done myself, including the cabinets, which I really enjoy making, i took woodwork at GCSE but was at school at the time when IT was just getting going and consequently we were all pushed down that route. Walls are painted with F&B Ammonite, and the ceiling is F&B Wevet, mixed by Johnstones Trade Best success? Probably trusting myself to measure 4 times, cut once, and actually get it right for once...The solid oak top on the toilet/sink back, £130 alone that cost me, but it came out bang on! Total cost for everything was just a shade under £4k. Onto my new snug next which is actually well underway, but i'll post another entry when its all done and dusted in a month or two's time!

Keep as simple as possible. Blending valve, buffer and all additional pumps delete. Run direct from heat pump circulation pump. Tee rads in upstream of the UFH manifold and the return after the manifold. Run all as a single zone. Have radiator valves to control bedroom temps. Upgrade rads if needed. Run Weather Compensation (WC). Set the flow rates for the UFH at the manifold and then heat pump circulation pump, if not a modulating circulation pump, set the speed to get the correct flow through the radiators. If modulating circulation pump it will sort itself. I have a similar set up, getting a CoP for heating at 9 degrees outside of just under 6. Mine system consists of an ASHP, fan coil, UFH manifold, 3 port diverter valve and a cylinder.

Regardless whether the builder will fix the defects they do need to be fixed so that you can move on. When it happened to us the remediation was done through a combination of the Heb Homes builder, and the joiner I’d hired and me. My focus was getting the build back on track so it cost me extra money which HH have verbally agreed to reimburse.

How much are people being quoted to get a 5kW ASHP installed in a new build? I have just been quoted £8k as below. It seems rather expensive to me but after reading a few other threads on here it may not be too bad? This is for the 'annexe' and the grant will be used againest the main house. I was given an estimate of £13k after the grant for the heating and second fix plumbing in the house, which was the cheapest quote I received. It was hard to even get quotes on that about a year ago. Any suggestions for sensible quotes in Suffolk if this isn't sensible? Thanks.

Yes the “skimpy” trusses are triangulated to make them stiff hence they can carry the roof load without large timbers like the ones used in older houses. Draw me a diagram of your trusses AND the walls underneath and I will show you what you’re unable to understand. 👍

Loftzone do a product that looks more stable than the cheap legs: https://www.loftzone.co.uk/shop-storefloor/storefloor/?attribute_kit-size=Starter+Kit+1.2m+x+2.4m Another member did an install here:

Planning is not just to do with the height. The width cannot be greater than half the width of the house and its materials have to be similar to the house. There is also an eaves height when within 2m of a boundary… https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/extensions/planning-permission If it’s open on at least 2 sides, it could be exempt from Building Regulations via the definition of a carport. Otherwise, it will require BR’s and yes, it can be done via a Building Notice. Submit the application, pay the fee, Building Control will register the application and then carry out regular inspections and issue a Completion Certificate at the end. Any existing elements that are due to receive additional loading would need to be justified by an engineer. Building Control will request that information along with engineers’ details/calculations for the other structural elements.

Hi, we are building with a timber frame Fleming are providing, doing building regs and erecting, Ive been really impressed with them throughout so do take a look at them again, I also looked at Potton who were much more expensive than Fleming. We are aiming for near passive standard. We are in Cheshire, a bit further on in the process to you but have been and are going through very similar thoughts. We are managing trades ourselves after Fleming have left site and are navigating the PD role with Fleming. It is worth asking Potton if they remain the PD once their bit is done all the way to the end of the project, Im guessing they don't. We think we have found a way through with it but its been a steep learning curve, you prob have more building experience than us

Welcome to THE forum Not popular here as it has mechanical parts in the smelly stuff, most prefer air blower systems Definitely not, listen to the supplier and liaise with building regs

1) Consider something else without moving mechanical parts, e.g one of the air blower treatment plants. 2) Rainwater soakaway and foul soakaway should be separate. The "plan" to share them may suggest you are short of land to do it properly. Post a site plan so we can see how much space you have. And welcome to the forum.

Top photo looks similar to Vandersanden Old Farmhouse.

Yep I walked away from a kit supplier for a lot less part way through the design. Open and honest is all you can hope for, anything less...

Sounds like the surveyor could have explained why much better but I think they're right - Velfac windows are fitted with a shadow gap (10-15mm) and the whole visible frame hinges open. See here The gap is needed to give clearance for the frame to hinge within the opening, so nothing can be installed in front of the frame or they won't be able to open! So, the slips will need to be in place first (and will slightly reduce your openings). A cut edge is a good idea to ensure a consistent gap

Currently running at 10kW for the free session 1-2. Car (limited to 10A as i only have a granny charger), oven, dhw, washing machine, dishwasher. Nothing else to switch on and no battery other than the car. It's an interesting experiment albeit the amount saved isn't life changing!

@WisteriaMews, sorry I am in Greece ATM, and so not checking the forum daily. The OSO UVC has an double skin: inner steel pressure vessel and our plastic or powder coated aluminium with vacuum panel insulation between. The two immersions are installed in small access panels with the wiring terminals, thermostatic switches etc. There is an internal duct channel for the 3kW flex cabling running from the bottom to up the two access panels. I used a couple of waterproof ds18b20 digital thermostats to measure temperatures. Look them up on eBay etc. The "waterproof" bit isn't important, but they are encapsulated in a ~8mm dia aluminum can that can be thermal-taped directly to the steel cylinder with a bit of foil+mineral wool insulation on top; you can get a get a range of lead lengths but 1½ or 2m is enough to take it down to the bottom channel of the cylinder, and thin enough to be run alongside the flex in the internal cabling duct. These thermometers are wired into a small IoT board, a Wemos D1 Mini which in a small ABS box about 25×40×50mm IIRC and powered using a USB lead; This ESP8266-based module uses ESPhome firmware to talk back to my home automation system over local Wifi. I use the Node-RED javascript code to track temperatures, do the heating calcs, and send the MQTT commands to power on and off the power to the two immersions. Here is a screen grab from my Home Automation system for the last 24 hours. You can see that my son had a bath or long shower at 5PM, and it scheduled top up at 00:30, 04:30 and 09:30 to bring the UNC to target 50°C because of the cheap spply pricing in those slots. (The price actually went negative in two of these slots so I actually got paid to heat the water.) The ~ 4°C cooling / day is the parasitic heat loss from the UVC which is very small compared to conventional cylinders or thermal stores.

Really nice work and great joinery too. Well done I'd be bloody happy with that for £4K I think we spent 4K last time we refurbed our bathroom 7 years ago but it was all off the shelf stuff

The ones I looked at where £7000 ish. I decided against one.

Yes, that's right, new roof and no exposed chimney - I'll get it swept and filled, and if it still causes problems, I'll remove it. Glad to know that removing it is actually an option, because I hadn't even contemplated that. Can't have a problem with something that no longer exists, so that's a good backup

Try imperialbricks.co.uk

take several close up photo's in good light and take them to your nearest merchant, trav, jewson etc they have access to brick matching service for free which will get you a decent match and also ones that are actually available.

Hi everyone, thanks for adding me to the group. My husband and I are buying our first house so we’re working on a couple of projects. I was happy to see this group exists as information can be difficult to find online. Any suggestions on what sub forum to use for some questions on whether i need planning permission on building a fence would be appreciated.

Do your stone slips after, not before. We installed the window to the outside of the ICF, then overlapped the stone slips on to the window frame. Cut the slips to form a neat frame to the window.

Ah, I read the left stairs as ending outside that door (not very clear and I hate all outward opening doors of any sort except fire doors).

It also looks the part!

@joe90 BR’s wouldn’t have an issue in that situation as the door would not cross the stair landing. But it’s still a little odd.

Ok just in case it's of interest......we met with our architects last week to finalise detail as we move into BRegs and Discharge of conditions. Long story, but we have added block skin to back render on ground floor and it's our preference that the upper storey cladding overhangs the ground floor render........question was "can we effectively extend the cladding into the airspace beyond our planning footprint" - we were talking 31mm on each elevation. Now caveat to our situation is that we are on a narrow site (1m from a "very intetested" neighbour), but our architects view (local, working relationship with LPA) was that pre covid, he may have seen one enforcement action a year, he currently has 8 on the go, with a number of those needing to go back into planning.......his advice was "do we want the added hassle?"

Well spotted, opening a door onto a landing is a really bad idea and may not pass building regs 🤷‍♂️

Just a couple of minor observations with the current layout. Why does the door to the master Bedroom open outwards? Will the door to the Store (within the master) be a reduced height door? If not and it is to be cut/chamfered to match the slope, it will currently clash with the slope. It would therefore need to be hinged on the other side.

That's just it, you don't need it the same temperature everywhere. You can if you want, but our bedrooms are generally cooler than the living space, because we add less heat in the bedrooms, our ensuite warmer than the bedroom because we have additional heat in there, or as best you can in the same space. It's called balancing the heating system. Part of the basic system design. If you want the house the same temperature leave the interiors open an hour or two, it will mostly even out (even on an upside down house, single storey or x up x down house) if don't want even temps keep the doors closed. Very different (?) because you heat the top and heat stays there to a large degree. But nothing really special going on. So your bedroom are a degree cooler, good for you. Mine isn't the perfect solution, neither is yours. It for the OP to ask questions dismiss or include whatever he wants, it's their money, their choice. @PNAmble are you the thread police, or just a grumpy person. Difficult to tell.

Pocket sliding doors work well if you are tight fit space especially in en-suites. Maybe consider for bed 2 and 3.

This is exactly what I did. Bedroom has no wardrobe just bed, bedside tables and dressing table (looks less cluttered) his and hers wardrobes (hers bigger than his 🤷‍♂️) either side of walkway to en-suite which had bath, toilet, basin and walk in shower. Worked very well for us.

The advantage of a walk through dressing room is that it creates an extra sound barrier / distance from the en-suite. And requires only one door from the bedroom, so more wall space for drawers or whatever. The advantage of side by side is that you’ll have bigger en-suite / dressing room but less wallspace. What’s best for you depends on which if those factors is more of a priority. What I would say is if the dressing room is likely to be a bit messy or untidy, then best to have it’s own door thus do them side by side. Don’t forget a space for a dressing table, and lots of sockets. As you’ve attached your whole floor plan are you seeking feedback / suggestions on the other rooms ?

You may as well use the immersion

PS: A common problem with changing to a pitched roof is that there are windows on the first floor that limit how high the wall plate can be, and tiles and slates have a minimum pitch. I think typical eaves height is around 2.5m. If you can set the wall plate end at 4m that's a fall of 4-2.5 = 1.5m over 3m. That's a pitch of Arctan(1.5/3) = 26 degrees. Many tiles are limited to 30-35 degrees. Some are OK down to 15 degrees (may depend on exposure).

It can sometimes get a bit tricky when you totally demolish something. I couldn't find a government source that explicitly covered this situation but.. https://www.hcrlaw.com/blog/demolition-when-is-planning-permission-needed/ However it sounds like you are well underway so I probably wouldn't bother. For safety I would check you comply with the rules for a new extension buried in multiple places in here... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5d77afc8e5274a27cdb2c9e9/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf I think the main issues might be the height. See top of page 17 which limits the height to 4m or 3m within 2m of the boundary.. and page 22.. Think there are also rules on the use of similar materials to the house.

We are thinking of using Dorset Limestone throughout in the new build. Would like to use large sizes but at the moment it seems 600 x 400 is the max we can see online. Does anyone have any idea if we can get any bigger. Ideally located in Dorset. As an aside we just phoned a tile suppliers found on google to see if they could get bigger. You can imagine our surprise when we were told that their Dorset Limestone comes from Egypt! 🙄

There used to be (30 years ago) a quarry on Portland that could sort out just about anything. Just don't say the word "rabbit" as they are as mad as they come there.

Did good ! . I’ve got a gcse - it’s in learning (expletive deleted) all . Got an A though .

Agreed. My boiler actually has two flow temperature knobs, one for ch and the second for dhw. The second is disabled if you don't have their internal diverter valve. Why they couldn't have provided a connection to switch between the two flow temperatures if you have an external valve is anyone's guess.

So. Horses for courses. Read the question and don’t assume your solution is perfect for everyone, an upside down house is very different than the bog standard ‘x up’ ‘x down’ built on a flat plot.