Leaderboard

My name is phil. I had my own building firm for 20 odd years doing repairs and renovations. My main passion was roofing and lead work. I was a one-man band and liked working on my own. And of course, when you're 100ft in the air, the view is fantastic.

Can only add that we didn't add a vcl on the inside of a full fill mineral wool cavity, also didn't ventilate the cavity.

No need for AVCL in a cavity wall, full or part fill - not sure how it would be installed! Wall may show slight condensation risk but will still comply with BS5250 on condensation & moisture in buildings. Stop worrying about it.

Yes

Yes it is reasonable to expect a fall on your patio and your paths too, the only thing up for discussion would be where to have the fall if not obvious but as you have a french drain I'd have thought that was a big enough clue and shouldn't need pointing out .

There is not much point if there is no risk of interstitial condensation. If you had a this layer of Rockwool between battens on the inside you could staple on some polythene before you plasterboard. Paint can be fairly vapour impermeable. Most insulated lofts have no VCL and no issues and they are on the horizontal plane which is more vulnerable.

I think this may be the case and it is curious that such a great idea is engineered so poorly. When you look at the guts of it, @TerryE posted some pics when he took his apart , it's clear that it is not just a great concept but simple in practice. A little attention to the design for servicability and control would have made them world beating. As it is everybody is giving it a body swerve.

In case there is any doubt, I'm only helping an honest solution.

Ours has a constant stream of condensate running out of the drains, even with it running (And extracting moisture) for a while it doesn't stop. Indoor humidity rises to around 72% when it's off and drops to 57% when it's on. That's with keeping the indoor temperature at 22C. I'm not sure there's any way to get away from the condensate issue without drained fain coils.

Fermacell powerpanel H20 is designed for this. But probably one of the most expensive solutions. https://www.saimaxx.com/fermacell-h20-powerpanel-12-5mm-x-2-6m-x-1-2m-square-edge-board-75054-115343.html https://www.insulationshop.co/image/catalog/pdf/Fermacell/product-data-sheet-fermacell-powerpanel-h2o.pdf https://www.youtube.com/embed/LpnG1d8hJL0 I used Marmox multiboard for shower area and then swapped to standard fermacell board for rest of the room, but all my walls are 2 layers anyway. Marmox do a nice pre-made niche for the shower area. https://www.marmox.co.uk/range/multiboard-products

I’ve used moisture on all my bathrooms Absolutely fine

I've seen this at NSBRC - https://www.tilingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/product/jackoboard-plano-tile-backer-board Seems to be a good alternative. Not sure on price in comparison to the yellow gypsum board

The yellow Gypsum boards are perfect for this and easier to work with than cement boards

We don't have a Brink unit, but ours uses volt free contacts for boost. I have just used something similar to this https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-900-series-10ax-1-gang-2-way-press-retractive-switch-white/21849?tc=TA5&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxbjClTJurl32V3-e1_kTjztGco0OtS2LAYa7ZsXcrtGteX801eDE1xoCfAUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Once MVHR is up and running and the house has dried out, you don't really need to boost that much, if at all. Just let the inbuilt humidity sensor do the work. And stick one boost switch in the kitchen as a handy place to have a boost.

Apart from the seal I mentioned my GRP is solid.

They are already sold, but I was planning on dismantling them. I cannot see that constitutes the need for a demolition notice, and I'm probably worrying unnecessarily.

Don't panic all is not lost, you just have to be creative. Fort the record, I did a rough perc test on 5 places our drive to get an idea (clay) and there was a marked difference at the different places. I found it difficult to get calculations for a single site as the Wallingford website is for developments, but I recall one of the companies which sells the crates will do the calcs which should satisfy Building Control or the planners if it's a planning condition. Also draw up a system of water butts, rain gardens and swales to slow the water down, plus permeable driveway.

>>> surely the Building Control inspected whilst it was being built. Good point, if it was the local authority BC, I've seen before a property advertised with 'LABC warranty' i.e. these guys: https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/

Any update? I hope you got good news.

surely the Building Control inspected whilst it was being built. They check at various times such a foundation pour, floor slab etc. Do you know who the BC was and can you get anything from them. Surely it couldn't be built without inspection, if it wasn't then despite looking good maybe it should be avoided.

Actually perhaps it is more complex than I thought. Your analogy isn't great but let's persevere. Most baths have a plug on the bottom. If they only emptied from the overflow, being deeper would not help other than hold some water for a short time. Rivers have their outlets at the end, not the bottom, and being deeper does not help flow. The temporary volume from dredging is a tiny proportion. The earth goes where? Oops you are winding me up aren't you.

Noticed it is limestone. Acid may discolour it..