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Can I suggest an alternative? I'd think about an apex swift box, instead. The sizing looks about right for 6 or 10 nesting spaces. Something like this: A bit of due diligence needed, but I think it is preferable. eg These people do them in 42 or 45 roof angles, or can customise. https://peakboxes.co.uk/shop-swift-boxes All the best. Ferdinand

It could rust fairly quickly if not galv and do not want that bleeding down the cladding. Or use copper, ali or zinc.

Tanks @Marvin - good advice, I believe E or W facing can also succeed and also somewhat higher than 5m (estimating a normal roofline height). ATB.

Hi Readers of the above post. This is a lovely idea but please be aware that the ideal site for Swift Nest Boxes is under the eaves or on walls facing north, northeast or north-west out of direct sunlight. Place five metres above the ground, with clear adjacent airspace so swifts can access it in a high-speed direct flight for best results.. Marvin

That SunAmp PV of mine has failed again, so I am down to 1 × SunAmp PV again. It looks like the safety thermostatic cut-out has tripped again. No good reason. I had a DS18B20 on the heater wall and it never got near a cut-out temp threshold. I like the unit but the control electrics board is crap. I am seriously considering replacing it by an off-the-shelf ESP32-based control board, and reimplementing to control myself.

I blame you. How mamy years married? And you let her go into a tile shop. On her own. Unsupervised. Just before Christmas. Thats just male negligence. Sorry mate but someone's gotta say it.

Short sighted in my opinion. House design is a real skill and although professionals don’t always get it perfectly correct they can really help you consider pros and cons of different layouts. Maybe it works for you, but I think your layout is really suboptimal and if you actually lived in that space you would possibly regret it, or simply miss out on a much better layout without knowing it. Ignorance is of course bliss, but I still think it would be a shame. If it’s a question of changing the consents you have already, then a professional will have some clever ideas and strategies about how you can leverage the permission you have already and get permission for something better. You are building a forever home. Don’t rush or skimp on the design.

Just use the stuff for 15mm, it’s just a tighter fit, that’s all I used, thick walled 15mm ID climaflex 👍🏻

Thanks Joe90, Thats exactly the thing i just went and bought. Once you know what the required part is called its easy. who knew. Job already done. Thanks guys

Our nice clean dry site is now a muddy hole. I decided that we needed to extend the retaining wall all the way down the bank. I noticed that it never really fully dried out in the summer and the silt was running off it onto the drive. Original plan was to grade it back to the other wall and grass it but it just looked a bit unfinished and I was a bit concerned about it shifting over time. We’ll put drainage in behind it and tie it into the main drain. It’s also allowed us to widen the driveway by almost a metre. It was a little tight before once we’d built the wheelchair access. Brickies started this morning and back tomorrow. Will be finished by Monday night.

Take the cladding right up to the top and screw a bit of power coated mild steel with a star cut out on the outside. Otherwise the interface between the star bit and the cladding is just a nuisance and, frankly, not something the architect should have washed their hand of.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-expert-hex-shank-multi-purpose-drill-bits-5-piece-set

OK, I'll be the first! I am not sure what your problem is. Can you elaborate? You have drawings so you have an idea of the size. As far as I can see you just need to build to that point, check the 'real' measurements and cut and install your triangle to prepared fixing points. Is it the choice of board, the cutting of the star itself, the exact measurement, or A N Other thing upon which you need advice? One thing I'd want to know is what the cut edges of the board would look after machining. It's no good getting a self-coloured board that then requires a bit of ('matching'?) paint slapped on when it's cut.

What's a fir octopus? I prefer a mimic octopus:

+1 for Octopus, and I can get you a referral code worth £50 off your first bill if you want 😎

As an experiment I installed 2 Salus auto balancing actuators, one for each loop, on the garden room manifold. Reset the WC curve with a start flow temp of 34 (normally 29.6 deg). And it started to heat the floor, so left to run overnight, the summer house settles at 14.7 degs with an outside temp of 5 degs. A result - No need to have electric heater on all the time. The Salus actuators go fully open for a long time (hours), then start to set the flow rate. The other mod I made, was to remove all outside control from the ASHP, the only influence is the WC curve. So it starts and stop as it wants. Moved the house thermostat to control the two mixer valve set points (via a volt free switch on the controller), instead of when the heat pump runs. Mixer valve control set point T, is set to a flow temp of 27 and T2 set to 38 (so it goes to a fully open position). Used the thermostat timer to have a target of 19.5 for 07.30 to midnight and 20.5 during E7 time period. So running regime is, no call for heat - UFH pump stays running and mixer valve modulates to keep flow at 27 degs, call for heat - mixer goes fully opens take all the heat the ASHP is delivering into the floor. Outside temp has been a steady 5 degs, from last year's monitoring, I found the calculation of house heat loss to be very accurate. So for the last 24 hrs the CoP including DHW has been around 4.5. Maybe a little fine tuning of the WC curve as temperature drops, but quite happy at the moment. Pipes now insulated

get on an overnight cheap EV =charge rate and run that ASHP full chat charging up your floors during that time .. then step it back during the day.. this could save you some ££ , you have to look at the whole year costs .. ASHP are way more £ to run during cold spells to get temoerature up (hence teh overnight chep tariff) compared to oil or gas IMO , but soon pull that back in late autumn and erly spring so that over the year you should be more economical and cost effect ..

i run my grant arona 10kw heat pump, flat out , between 12.am and 5am using cheap over night electric.. during that periord at about 0-3 degrees it uses 10-14 kw of power.. my thermo stats are all calling for heat higher than it will ever reach .. its just pumping heat into the floors .. i have the weather comp set at 50 degress at -3 external .. this is into my buffer tank , but i have recordeded retirn tems of 40 degrees from teh underfllor loops.. i designed my house to run at Under floor flow temps at 35d at external 3, but this would be leaving it running all the time .. and it works perfectly, , but its way more cheaper for me to utilse the overnight cheap rate and charge up the floors as much as i can for teh 5 hour period then turn it off (cost to last year are about a 1/3 ) I have a large 4000 sqft house. all with under floor heating .. during this perior we heat bathrooms, kitchen , family room , living area .. ( bedrooms dont require heat..they stay warm) the charge into the floor make the whole house snug and warm .. we may light log burner in the evening but this is more creature comfort rather than nessesity.. at the same time over night we charge our 10kw batteries ,, this mostly enough to run our house , do our hot water via teh heap pump and electric cook.. if we get a bit of sun its enough to boost the battery by 30% (7.2kw 5 degree facing west rray) to last out till the 12am charge time.. if not and we do a big electric cook we may need couple of imported kw.. House is new, i(designed by myself )contemporay design, open plan iving areas with solar gain in winter if its sunny .. floors are covererd in either amtico , tiles with carpets in bedroom.. (wood floors what ever they are are just terrible for low grade under floor heat efficiency we learned that mistake the hard way in our last house ) we basically pay about £2-2.30 - britisg gas 0.09p kwh (standing charge aside) deending on temp say 5 degree or under to heat and run our 4000 sq ft house per day .. keeping it super comfy toastie thsi way.. we only really need to heat november / december /jan feb march.. if you woudl like any more details or soe energy graphs ask away, but using over night to pre wrm your house works brilliant, teh more isnulation and draft proofing you do to retain that heat then it has every chance of being your only heat time required.. kind regards Andy

We used metal to make ours too

Valinor, my walls are going up as we speak, I'm using full fill PIR insulation, cost me a fortune. The whole thing has been a complete and utter nightmare. My first self-build, 3 years in planning, bought into the science of everything, had multiple site meetings in the months running up to the build, had everything on site ready, colour coded notes for everyone. My architect said in 50 years he's not seen anyone better prepared. Totally pointless. It just doesn't work practically with the way the trades work, and they will not adapt to you. For example if brickies are on price work, all they want to do is lay brick, and QUICK. Air gaps, mess, thermal looping, you'll get the lot, even if you try to do the insulation yourself (I've been fitting my PIR myself around them since the first row). If you have the time, sell your PIR, at a loss if necessary. Get the brickies to concentrate on laying brick straight and accurate, lay the wall ties properly, wipe mortar away on all sides. Once they're off site, pour EPS beads in from the top ensuring all gaps are filled. I've debated and been advised by our knowledgeable friends on here to take mine down and start again. Not an option for me, so I've paid fortunes for full fill PIR, now I'm going to have to pay lots more and install insulated plasterboard on the inside to reduce the cold bridge effect, and lose internal space for the pleasure. EPS beads all the way.

She found these lovely floor tiles for the GF (200m2) I nearly fell over when I saw the price I said they will have to come down to 30 m The markup must be incredible

Wow. Shouldn't I be paying you for responding in seconds?? So obvious. I owe you one.

Oi ! (expletive deleted)er !

How are the rooflight leaks, all sorted now?

Like I made any errors…….. ☺️

tank museum

Oh hey. EPDM roof adhesive needs 5°C temperatures as well. That might end up being fun.