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Hi, I am new to buildhub, and looking forward to participating in the community. I have been doing weekends DIY for a while. Since retiring from my job last year I have embarked on renovating our home. Looking forward to sharing my experience and learning from the community members experience. Mark

I have been doing a little research on appeals. Let me note some data here, for anyone else on BH to find: Overall national averages for speed of LPA appeal decisions. We're looking at the 1st category "Planning appeals by written representations" - so around 27 weeks atm. https://www.gov.uk/government/news/performance-update-july-2023 LPA performance at appeal. % appeals 'allowed' (i.e. appellant won / LPA lost) by LPA district. We're looking at s78 appeals here. Quite a big range. Note that anything over 10% is considered ripe for 'special measures'. https://appealfinder.co.uk/Local-planning-authority-success-rates.p19.html Named inspector performance at appeal. i.e. what % does each inspector allow. A big range here also. https://appealfinder.co.uk/planning_inspectorate_appeals_search.p15.html Central Government limits for 'special measures'. The limits for when an LPA goes into 'special measures'. We're looking at 'non-major' developments here. The current limits are <70% LPA decisions completed within 8 weeks (or agreed time). And/or >10% decisions overturned on appeal. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1112048/Improving_planning_performance_2022_WEB.pdf

See also.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/1bac8eed-995b-ed11-97b2-00155d9c9a65

Pretty sure you cant reclaim anything before planning permission is granted. Their thinking is that before then it can't be associated with the new dwelling.. Google found.. https://www.mytipsandadvice.co.uk/2018-05/how-does-planning-permission-affect-zero-rating-UKTAVAAR_EU08070401

Whats it's being used on ? That looks like mineral felt.

One coal terminal that handles 48 million tonnes a year. Aperture Even rail trucks full of coal look beautiful in a J Henry Fair photo Environmental activist and photographer J Henry Fair took this mesmerising photograph of the Lambert's Point coal terminal in Virginia from a plane, to reveal its inner workings 30 August 2023 By Gege Li J Henry Fair/Southwings STRETCHING out across an otherwise unassuming corner of Norfolk, Virginia, is the Lambert’s Point coal terminal. It is the largest and fastest-loading facility in the northern hemisphere for handling and transporting this fossil fuel, the combustion of which is a key industrial contributor to climate change. This stunning shot, titled Cause and Effect and capturing the dramatic scope of the yard’s operations, was taken by photographer and environmental activist J Henry Fair from a plane circling the facility, to “look over the fence” and see what is hidden from view, he says. Lambert’s Point handles a staggering 48 million tonnes of coal a year. It can offload the contents of 1200 rail cars of the stuff per day onto ships bound for the Atlantic. At its maximum, it can hold 6200 of these trucks, a mere handful of which can be glimpsed here, uniformly snaking along the tracks in a mesmerising display of our influence on, and destruction of, the world. “When I saw this terminal, I knew it would make a great picture,” says Fair. “By making beautiful images of horrible things, I hope to create a dissonance in viewers that will prompt them to consider the impacts of what is shown in the pictures, and question the assumptions that make those things possible.” A selection of Fair’s shots depicting human interventions in nature and the environment, including this one, can be seen at his ongoing exhibition, Industrial Landscapes, at the ARTCO Gallery in Aachen, Germany, until 10 September. Photographer J Henry Fair

It looks like mineral felt to me.

Yeah , but thank heavens for that @joe90 There are some many things within the building regulations that conflict with each other, great to have them onboard and trying to work out solutions with you. I have had some great debates with BCO's over the years.

Looks like a 90s Vauxhall.

If you have a small section of UPVC that you can use then yes that would look good, lead would be my second choice.

Yes, had a chat, for the benefit of others that may find it useful, in my own words - span is 4.5m - 600mm to be removed from one end - 1.6m to be spliced in, to give a min of 1m overlap - 4 x 12mm bolts staggered off centres, and double faces toothed plates/washers between Also, as it happens, an easier solution may be available, based on @Mr Punter comment - 12mm fibre board, mounted to on 25mm fibreboard spacer to give 25mm ventillation behind - to reduce the required clrearance by 50%, ie from 60mm to 30mm (but subject to the stove guy agreeing that I got this right) - so 125mm flue, with 175mm outer diameter plus 2x30mm - giving a total required space of 235mm - which should all fit between the 285mm joist space (and a bit to spare) Thanks all for your comments, tips and advice

A bathroom is not an apartment, it is an inner room. If the bathroom links to an apartment with a means of escape window (e.g. an en-suite), or directly to e.g the stairs then out, no escape window needed.

I would fold the upstand over double to make it stronger and stand up with no wall to support it but only about 25 mm high, this to direct any water into your guttering. I would wrap the flashing around the corner a little to stop damp being driven behind it.

I'm going with HiLine E-Flex, 32mm duo. 20m kit (I need between 15-17m), for £750 25 + 25 /90mm (ingoodnic.uk)

I made my own buried pipes after seeing the thermal rubbish on offer for stupid money. 28mm Hep2O pipe, 25mm thick black foam insulation, aluminium taped, inserted in 110mm flexible pipe. Sealed at found level with stainless steel mesh and spray foam.

Ah right, I would just turn up the last soaker to direct the water into the guttering.

>>> My plan is that the lockbox will be the final “envelope” in a series of envelopes. Some of which are lockable, others are hidden. Presumably razor wire and machine gun guard posts are the 1st line?

That does include the windows, so I'm at £1,161 m2 to watertight. I definitely feel that the build industry has cooled down a lot recently, it is much easier to find people with availability and negotiate discounts on materials than a year ago. The 200k would be to finish but based on prices I've recently managed to secure for a number of different things (tiles, bathrooms, flooring), I'm feeling reasonably good about it.

It appears gone are the days of running them outside to show off your fancy indoor plumbing and drainage system!...

I booked an appointment last week, they come on 26th September to install, so just under 4 weeks.

https://condell-ltd.com/lintels/catnic-lintels/catnic-cavity-wall-lintels/catnic-cg90100-cavity-wall-lintels Minimal price difference for 1800 to 1950. 3300mm lintel looks more than I expected so perhaps I'm out of touch with prices.

The 1400 over 1210 isn't great but less of a worry. Get the 1800 lintel for 1610 opening swapped as not yet installed. 1800 is the top end of a CG90/100 profile before a price bump which may help explain. A 1950 should still be cheap though.

Interesting, I guess you're having a vaulted ceiling hence the ridge steel. That helps lighten the load in the lintel. On plan, the lintel needs to support 0.8m2 of roof per m plus eave overhang. That might be 1.2m2 per m. I think slate is about 35kg/m2, so that's about 50kg/m2 on plan. Perhaps total roof load on lintel is 90kg/m then add snow etc -> conservative 180kg/m (TBC). Blockwork already on there is around 100kg/m. The bearing loads are therefore (180+100)*3 / 2 = 420kgf = 4.2kN per bearing. I think the standard Catnic at 3m has a SWL of 26kN so 8.4kN is well under that, but check. Catnic CG90/100 I'm surprised by your 8mm sag. That's span over 375. It only has 3kN on at the moment which is 10% of max SWL which is likely deflection limited at span over 300 or 0.003*span which is around 10mm. So you should only be seeing about 1mm at this point. Are you sure the floor you are measuring to is flat? What does a 1.8m level look like held under it. I think that if you have 8mm of centre deflection, you'd have about 3mm at each end of a 1.8mm level. That assumes a rotating bearing, otherwise it would be more I guess. Actually, would be good to get a laser level across it and then easier to tell. That bearing would always bug me, but I'm a ruminator by nature. At this point, it's half a day's work to rectify. You don't want to be an open cheque book, but it might smooth it if you cover the cost of the replacement lintel (about £130 I'd guess) if he takes the extra work on the chin. The blocks can be cleaned and relaid. That feels pragmatic to me as you'd be within your rights to just say fix it to him and he pays all. These things can turn ugly, but it can 'keep them honest'. You'll have to gauge the relationship for yourself.

Ah yes. Dumped in a stream bed including wood and plasterboard, for cash, for the next generation to deal with. You are correct that this is common. A proper waste company can supply a big skip for clean brick and concrete thar will go for crushing and be used as hardcore. Mix in wood and felt though and the cost will rise. I advise use of a good breaker. Jcb or Stanley. These are powerful and efficient. First form a line of holes parallel to the house to reduce risk.

I have a longer run outside, covered in the same way. We run a flow temp of 35C and even last year in -6 we had no issue. As others have said, pipes run is a bit strange, usually you want them tight to the wall, not the rear of the unit.

leave it to the builder.

Hose and watering can will quickly prevent any dust from scattering, which is the main / only risk. Well, apart from falling while doing it. Have a look at the guidelines on the HSE website. Practical and simple, and very handy to show to concerned neighbours.

Sometimes the BCO plays a convenient role of bad cop and allows the client to play good cop and not strain the relationship between the client and builder with the client still getting what they want. What type of doors are to go in the 2810 opening?

Are you going with a duo pitch roof with the gable furthest from the existing house? What is the distance from the door to the back wall, with the barrow by it? Did you happen to see a code on the Catnic as to which type it is?

If I understand it correctly I would stop the soakers and flashing at the wall end and treat the overhanging roof as a normal eaves detail, what’s the rest of the roof eaves like?

it doesnt look to bad really, they are on top of the trays. Good to keep an eye out but looks tidy job. Much worse can be found on here. Do you have building control monitoring ?

it may be the odd sizes weren't in stock. As its an outbuilding rules could be more lax. As long as the trays above the lintels are sorted i don't think id be over worried. Post some pictures.

Lintels upto 1.2m only need 100mm bearing, over that its 150. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-1-external-masonry-walls/6-1-12-lintels/ It's a warranty fail for NHBC so i would have them removed and correct sizes. Also I'd want the door to be a HD lintel (taller). Also make sure the builder puts a tray and weep vents on every lintle.

If you are attaching anything to the OSB face of a SIP panel it should be screwed. I built my house using SIP and I spoke to the technical bods at Kingspan to confirm what type of fixings to use and was told screws and they referred me to another company who had done all the testing for pull out strength etc. It was them who told use screws long enough to protrude beyond the osb face by 20mm. I'd add screws to your cladding battens if you haven't already clad....I'm sure the nails will do the job, it would just be belts and braces.

I feel certain a SE could specify a new joist sistered onto the side of that joist, with lots of bolts, and then a section of the offending joust cut out where the flue is going through, to give you another 50mm or so.

How is that OSB floor fixed? If screws can you not remove them and move the joist over a bit? How much too tight is the flue? If a small amount can you not move just one end the small amount required?

Cold bridge and aesthetics, I think they spoil the loook of a house. My pet hate is kitchen pipes running at an angle down an outside wall to a drain.🤯

Holy thread resurrection and thank heavens for buildhub. We are boarding out and joiner commented on the size of the oven cables. We have two separate radial cables for the ovens. I said what’s wrong with them and he said they don’t look big enough. The ovens are 3.3 kW at 16A so installed 2.5mm cable. He reckoned they should be 4mm of even 6mm. I said no that’s completely unnecessary for ovens as they use very little power but you’d use it for induction hobs like we are. He still insisted that every kitchen he fits has much bigger cables for the ovens. Of course he’s got me doubting myself but the sparky knows his job and I shared the oven specs with at fit out time. Just spent 30 mins googling and found this thread. Sanity restored. I’ll tell him to stick to bashing in nails. 😂

Leave that in place, let your wife twiddle to heart's content, just don't connect to the heating system.