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crooksey

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  1. Graf plants are quoted to have energy usage per person, I presume the pump for the discharge runs for longer, I did state this can be adjusted, its the default settings though. Thats fine for 3 chambers, one chamber plants can suffer from this, i'm talking you leaving the tap on for a long time, the outlet level of the plant will be nearly always lower than the last sink/toilet in the house and will cause a flood above the pumping levels. Even 3 chamber tanks can work on a settlement basis, they don't all use electronic pumps to move matter through the chambers.
  2. Planning can't stipulate what treatment plant you use, this is down to building control, again you can only get it approved by them, they wont say use X plant. Bigger plant means bigger dig, more energy usage etc. You can adjust the settings etc, personally I generally recommend a person tank, can then easily cope with "peak loads". As on most plants, if you put to much water through them, the internal overflow will discharge unclean effluent into the drainfield/ditch etc. The bigger the plant the more capacity you have between pump outs. If you wanted to get technical, you could adjust the settings on a graf 5 person to pump out more frequently. (not recommended as the aeration cycle will be smaller then).
  3. Bit the bullet, pretty impressed with the results:
  4. Ordered the kit, worth a punt and I can return if not happy after X amount of days, not got too much to lose, will report back.
  5. Any starlink users here? How do you find its reliability? We have FTTC cabinet connection, alot of the time its OK we get about 60Mbps, but some evenings the bandwidth slows to a crawl, presumably when everyone in the village is utilising HD streaming etc. Speeds and breif tests I have done on some starlink networks seem good, but having never "lived" with it, I would appreciate some real world/long term opinions. We would not be using the starlink router etc as we have pre wired routing and WiFi already, so its just the reliability and average performances of the connection I am interested in, thanks.
  6. Extra insulation would be the best bet, unless you already have 200mm then arguably there really is no point. Having a thicker floor screed does increase the thermal mass of your heating system, and may have been designed for this. Without knowing the full spec of the existing build its hard to say, you paid an architect a lot of money (i presume) so ask them why they specified a screed of this thickness over extra insulation etc.
  7. I like Graf plants, marsh ensign also good. Whats good about the Graf One2Clean is that its one chamber, so any issues down the line, a de sludge and you can get in and fix anything (if needed) not possible in the smaller tanks with multi compartments. Graf also have a very high level of water treatment, so should satisfy any requirement of a PTP (package treatment plant).
  8. Should be fine, all down to what building controller is happy with. Probably look at it once and just nod. Two bathrooms upstairs and one downstairs on the same stack isnt un-common. Added utility sink and washing machine isn't adding much into the mix.
  9. If you want to do it properly just dig it out, no magic cure i'm afraid. If I turned up to a job and had to finish it no fail, I would disc cut the clay pipe flat with the floor, put a flexi adapter on the new pan and force it into the clay.
  10. Doesnt matter about DPC whats the floor height from that concrete base as pictured to the existing floor level? As thats what you are governed by. Floating chipboard is fine over celotex, glue joints etc. More people prefer screed now as you can embed wet UFH in much easier.
  11. In that case why not get the septic tank cleaned out and emptied, divert all gutters do it, then only have a foul sewer and use the culvert for rainwater. Will also lower your water rates as you will only be paying for sewage and not rainwater.
  12. New rules means you cannot discharge a septic tank to a culvert, unless it ends up in a drainage field (highly unlikely), you will need to replace this with a sewage plant (and then continue to use the culvert). I would route all down-pipes into pipework AFTER the sewage plant, so you don't get any issues. Also I would an an NRV after the plant to if the culvert was to become blocked/overfilled in heavy rain it cant back flood it. Probably not the news you wanted, but its the law now (since 2020).
  13. That doesn't look like it has enough height for PIR and then 50mm of screed? Whats the height difference to the original subfloor? If its a new extension, building regs probably want a decent amount (150min) and up stands, and looking at your patio doors, doesn't look anywhere near enough? You may have to insulate and then float chipboard over it to get the required U value.
  14. With a suspended floor you can have overlay systems that use a self levelling compoud to encapsulate the pipes to create some form of thermal mass, but its basic physics. If you dont have anything to store the heat, the room will feel cold quickly, much like a well insulated house with radiators, as soon as they turn off it feels noticeably colder, but not necessarily "cold". A 1930's house I imagine is nowhere near "air tight" standards, so you are probably losing a lot of generated heat to small draughts.
  15. You have nothing to retain the heat then. So once you switch it off, the heat just dissipates into the air. Thats why in most specified UFH installs you have a screed to encapsulate the heat and retain it once the UFH is switched off. Would explain exactly why it does not feel warm when the heating goes off as you have no thermal mass to store the generated heated
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