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Hello, welcome. The title of your post leads me to caution : are you sure you're going to get Planning Permission? I ask because it would be horrible to put a lot of effort into the details of the build , only to be refused permission.

I’ve had a few fitting like this where the supplier even suggests doing this . I tried it once and with enough force could pull the fitting apart . So when the destructions state olive compression fitting onto Hep2o pipe - I just purchase a threaded hep20 fitting otherwise I won’t sleep at night .

The actual number of clean cut ends I’ve de-burred in my career is close to zilch. Detrimental effects to date? Zilch. Invite a dozen plumbers in to your home and allow each of them to install a section of copper, and see what they do……….. As long as your pipe slice ( rotary cutting tool ) has a nice sharp blade you’ll be fine. I do, of course, expect you to ignore absolutely all of the above and meticulously de-burr each and every copper section you install, and I will salute you for doing so .

Apparently you say bye bye to any kind of warranty if you do this esp as almost all nowadays are moulded and have to be cut off. Hence our mvhr is plugged in via an adapter rather than removing the plug.

So an update on the heating and hot water performance. DHW Prior to modes, May 2022 gas consumption, for domestic hot water was 260kWh, or 8kWh per day. After mods June - 105kWh or 3.5kWh a day July - 64kWh or around 2kWh a day August - 104kWh or 3.5kWh a day. Had visitors (extra 4 in house) for a long weekend. All other times we were home. So overall well worth the mods. Heating Had the heating on the whole of October, set up to use weather compensation. Flow temps through UFH start at 23 degrees, compensation curve is almost flat, max temp at -5 is 26 degs. Night set back is a 2 degree drop in flow temp. However due to the inertia of the house/floor, night set back starts at 17:30 and finishes 02:30. Floor temp is around 21degs. Room temps 19 degs. Bedrooms temp sits at about 18 degs. All rooms have UFH circulation on, as the thermostats are set at 22, so operate as a single zone. Min turndown of boiler at the flow temps is 6.7kW. But my average gas input into the UFH water is currently 0.5kWh per hour. Boiler runs for about 10 mins and is off for nearly 2 hrs. At -5 the boiler run time should run around 15 mins and off 20 mins. One observation is the gas usage is well below what Jeremy spreadsheet say I should be consuming to keep the house at this temperature. Based on last year's October gas input of 1370kWh for heating and DHW. This year I hope to consume 600kWh or so. So a reduction of about 50% overall.😁

For heating, I only ever use gate valves or suitable metal seated lever ball valves. For potable, eg hot / cold water, see the link I gave a few posts back

Thanks for the detailed reply. Much to consider You have correctly identified the core issues. Just to clarify a few points The humidity issue is soley about stopping corrosion. Sub 65% it cant happen. So that is the target. The temp is about being resonably comfortable whilst working there. Its a hobby. I have no desire to be freezing cold whilst engaging in hobby. I'll just sit on the sofa instead! Ref ugly, if its confined to the celing, inside, then i can liuve with it if i have to. Spray foam is truly ugly. I agree, rockwall is the cheapest option. As for holding it up, im not sure. Im yet to get up there to take a proper look, but the galvanised bits look to be pressed steel section, so could be nailed through if need be. However, i still need a covering to prevent fibres falling. This was where i referred to the yanks as per pic. Simply not available here. Good thinking on the PIV. Not thought about that. With regard to "rooms" inside, i replied to onoff on this. Im keen to avoid an excess of this. But clearly its a solution. Yor last bit, E, you mention cladding with tin. his is aneat solution in as much that it would be much easier to retain the insulation, potentially negating all the previous suggestions. But its not an easy task managing big sheets of to upside down. Need to ponder a safe method for that. Thanks again for your input.

Hi all thanks for the responses. So the roof does look good yes but in short it's not in great condition(not terrible either). A lot of the tiles are broken, brittle or have holes in them. So of the wood work underneath is beyond repair from water damage. Lead flashing has worn through in many places too. The houses last update was in 1989. The roof is older though. All that said, the leaks were managed so damage is localised. Roof could be repaired but my wife and I are looking to gut and redesign it into our family home so repairs are only to get us to that point. We do plan to stay in keeping with the area. The tiles are not asbestos. We've had an asbestos survey done so all clear there. We do have asbestos on another building but that will be another story in this saga. The plan is to completly remove the roof, add 1m to the walls and install 3 dormer windows on the front with us south facing. This is so we can put in 2.5 bedrooms upstairs. Roof will either be raised in its entirety or opt for a lower truss angle(hence higher walls). It will be an new roof going back on in both cases. I'll perhaps be making a few posts with pictures soon enough. Looking for some opinions on some of the more granular aspects. Cheers all.

However, I planned a 3 bed “cottage” to replace a chalet type bungalow and was refused 4 applications, but went to appeal and won hands down on what I wanted originally. Yes you really need to know what would be allowed but don’t give in if refused. Be careful with pre planning advise as ours was “yes” but still refused on application. I can only advise plan what you want, submit and see what they say and what compromises they require and consider what you are prepared to concede. I found going to appeal easier than applying for planning (and I did it myself). Keep us informed. On build type I went brick and block over timber frame but this can be decided after you know what you will be allowed to build.

None of those things! High opacity Matt white emulsion, a couple of coats, and then sand that down to a finish.

I don't think so. Flow [kg/s] x temperature [K] = power [W] Power [W] x time [s] = energy [J] To heat up stuff you need energy, the faster the energy is delivered, the more powerful the heater, that is the basic of thermodynamics. There may be many temperature sensors added to a system for control and efficiency reasons, but basically if just two are used on the flow and return, and knowing the flow rate, the energy delivered is then known. The room thermostat is then just a device to stop overtemperature. In a very basic system as described above, manual room temperature correction would be initially needed, but once compensation curve is set, then, except in extreme conditions, the system can be left alone. Room and external temperature sensing can be used to help set that curve automatically and change the rate of thermal delivery to help efficiency, but they are not absolutely necessary to get a functioning system. (bit of a cross post with @JohnMo)

No. WC basically maintains the return temp. Target flow/return temp is increased as it colder by taking a reference from the external temperature sensor.

Actually kudos to @Jeremy Harris as I quite liked a lot of his ideas for his first setup, much as you have there, so I built on that as a ‘game changer’ in how I thought things through. He had the exact same combination cylinder as you’ve installed, but then ditched it due to the significant latent heat loss, using a SA instead. I’m very much still learning / improving myself btw…. Such a great forum, just for the diversity of the members and their knowledge and comprehensive feedback, which is simply gold dust.

That looks nice.

I’ve just got off the phone to them……… Answer: Because they are a bunch of cocks

Think one of my mate's places is in Normandy, his first French place. It was basically a stone build animal shed with a high front and very low back wall he raised. His other place is further south...begins with C... I'm seeing him this week for a beer hopefully as he's over he on family business. Welcome anyway.

Hi and welcome to THE forum fir self builders. Looking forward to hearing about your project, looks lovely (jealous emoji). Just remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking. We have all been there and done that so bring on the questions and don’t forget to post pics of your progress 👍

We used secondary glazing with standard glazing in our bedroom on a listed building facing a busy road. We probably had a 150mm gap, and the difference was amazing; I wished I'd done it 3 years earlier. Sealing any gaps around the frame is key.

Why not just do this properly????? Plastic is NOT meant to have a metal olive chew into it, and I’ve said this a number of times here. Put the zone valve on to a short piece of copper, so the compression setup is 100% concrete solid, and then simply use a pushfit coupler or elbow to convert from copper to pushfit. Bombproof. Compression and plastic should not appear in the same sentence, EVER. 👎

Agree with all the above!

And that it is well ventilated.

You don't need hardcore, sand blinding and then concrete. All you need is a sufficient cover of inert material so a good spread of hardcore or a lean mix of concrete cover - 50mm concrete should be sufficient. Then just make sure you've got a min 150mm distance between the bottom of your joists and finished level of oversite.

Wasting your breath. Continuing with these clowns is a suicide mission. If you’re happy with these idiots then on your head be it sorry. You’re being given sound advice here, what you do with it is up to you. Pretty much why I instructed my clients in Leicester to sack their ‘builder’…… complete buffoons of an order of magnitude. Causing more harm than good, and covering it over hoping it wouldn’t get seen / discovered. Even staged ‘photo shoots’ for BCO then didn’t carry on with the same standards. Far from it.

Hi Figure 11, For those of us who are unhappy about what we're being paid for export: 1. Energy Local sets up local energy clubs allowing pv owners to sell their export locally. See here Welcome to Energy Local | Energy Local. But it's not cheap or easy. Needs £5k to start and needs an anchor partner who produces more than 30kW and has a three phase meter. 2. Support the Local Electricity Bill. The Community Energy Revolution — Power for People

My two pence worth. If it’s a fight between MVHR and SOIL. Soil wins, unclip the mvhr and drag it out the way. Soil in first mvhr will fit around it, it’s only moving air.

I guess I was just thinking that you might have space for a single gym machine, clothes storage and a shower room in that area generally. You can still partition partially for privacy etc but I was assuming use by people who were going to be ok with the final configuration privacy-wise / or would structure use accordingly. In passing, I just used a tiled stud wall for some separation in a restricted-space shower room (using a standard bath replacement tray) to avoid the cleaning that glass screens demand and to give a wet room feel without hassle and it has come out quite well....there might be a way that you could give privacy to a multi-use space like that - plus jump straight off cross trainer and into the shower! Still don't think you can beat a nice open bedroom (and more space to add privacy screen by entry door)

Spend your money on insulation first

Defo use the rest bend for a long radius return from vertical to horizontal, as there will be a lot of oomph needed to get the dolphins along the straight horizontal run and out to sea. Have that rest bend going immediately into a 135 Y branch, with the branch off to whichever side is open for access, with the branch not flat but just set up maybe 15o to ensure nothing gets left to sit in the internal ‘mouth’ of the branch. Into that unused branch outlet you then install a 110mm rodding access cap. If you ever need to ‘empty out’ you can just grab the branch and rotate it to get the branch facing slightly downhill, then simply ask the most annoying relative / visitor you know to hold a large bucket whilst you shout instructions, telling them how many more turns on the cap before the magic happens etc. You could make like easier by doing all of this in 150mm, if you’re going to use 150mm for the horizontal run? That way, the friend or relative can get their forearm in to manually grab any problematic item. 👍

The cutter came with built-in deburrer, spent whole day spinning it, only now read the comment 😁

We spent over a year in pre application advice getting no, no, no etc then hired a planning consultant who it turned out had previous involvement with our site. He had a letter from the planners to the previous owner that was very helpful. When I showed that to the planning officer they rolled over and approved more or less what we originally wanted. Three years later when I needed planning for an out building the planning officer came to so a site visit, said he liked the house and said he thought "we" (meaning the planning department) had done a good job. Sometimes you have to bite your tongue to avoid getting arrested for punching them in the face 🙂

Well, you at least will understand when I say : "How do I know what a Gallic Shrug is....?"

He may look silly but...