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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/05/21 in all areas
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Installed in May so FCU only used for cooling. It's never cold upstairs so I doubt we'll ever use it for heating, but the very quick test I did on install it seemed fine. Yeah in the warm loft, 125mm duct direct into a circular ceiling vent. The return is via loft air. There's a risk this picks up more dust, no issue seen so far. And Nick says it may unbalance the mvhr but we don't run it enough that really worries me. (the q350 stats don't seem to show any change in overall flow when it's on)2 points
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Rather than all the guessing, either ask the builder to show you what he used or go looking for rubbish - I'm guessing there is a skip knocking about?2 points
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Yeah, after thinking it through a bit more I ended up installing an plastic eaves tray.1 point
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In conjunction with a paper diary, thats the perfect solution. Easy to provide evidence of (unfortunately for me) criminal damage. Knocked an £8000 invoice right on the head.1 point
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I don’t have a site diary but I do have a time lapse footage of every day of the build so far with 1 frame every 30s. So unless someone runs on site and then leaves within 30s I think I’ll have footage of them.1 point
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It really is worth keeping a site diary. May be the best £5 you spend on the project. A day to a page lets you add any info you like, as a rolling notebook, and you will often look back for names and details. Then you can also fill in notes ahead as reminders. Main use though is the names of who is there, times, and what they were doing. Also of deliveries, especially if you have bought it. The weather too. You will likely also record when you have given instructions, and any big decisions made. This all becomes very valuable if there are claims for extras or arguments about progress. Keeps you in the right too, if anyone was to claim an industrial injury at some previous time....it happens, and a site diary can be crucial in any legal case. Some of that may sound negative, but it isn't. You simply keep a record, and it is amazing how some arguments just disappear when you have notes and photo records. Then after the project you can keep it to look back at the difficulties you overcame. re the fire extinguisher suggestion. Agreed. I once bought one on the way to site, and it was used an hour later on a petrol fire on a roller. Next day I bought another on the way to site. My extinguisher saved their roller, but hey...better than not.1 point
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should have enough fall to get that drain out 11m @ 13mm/M fall. I'd run that duct past your waterboard, Severn Trent wouldn't accept it. If you already have a duct in for water it doesnt really help you to make the run shorter.1 point
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Bit late to fix stuff if already built out of ground..... water has to be 750mm deep.1 point
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Why? Does it say “Do not use this glue after purchase”? Been using it for decades and I won’t use anything else. D4 PU glue is exceptionally good stuff. If it’s summertime or a spell of bone dry sunny weather, I use a fine mist of water or a wet sponge to prep the to-be-glued surfaces / areas as PU is moisture cure and it behaves completely differently when given the required moisture ( there is of course moisture in the air, but it doesn’t get to the core of the glue so that suffers ‘pockets’, air bubbles that offer nothing in terms of gap filling or purchase ). Regardless, you’d see excess if PU glue had been used.1 point
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Who is going to visit you with a coat to hang, btw? Or does it come in the category Third Party Presentee-ism?1 point
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When I was going through the same trauma, I ended up sticking to Geberit and Hansgrohe. No imagination.1 point
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Or in my case, residual marks from the bloody stuff is still visible in my work jeans three years later. It gets every-bloody-where. @PeterW warned me, I disbelieved him. I wuz rong rong rong. Got some in my hair - had to grow it out.1 point
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Lap the DPM up 100mm past the DPC. As long as the DPC is installed so it is sticking out a small amount from the blockwork you will be fine, provided you are above ground.1 point
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yes hot soapy water did the job. Mind you it's doesn't solve drilling through a pipe... idiot ?1 point
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I'm building in donegal, external blinds are a great idea, you might find it hard to convince people you need them and lots of people will try and talk you out of them. I priced a few places and thought them pretty expensive but looking back now they wouldn't be much more expensive than the brise soliel (yet to be fitted).1 point
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Welcome @Mr Blobby, there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking in the first place (and cocking it up). We have learnt so much from each other here so ask away, and send us lots of pics (as we are also nosy,!!).1 point
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This place has a public price list https://ampair.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/AMP-AQUAREA-PRICE-LIST-20-FINAL.pdf (page 31). Good luck actually sourcing one. Learn from my mistakes: 1/ size the FCU(s) appropriately to use the full capacity of your chosen ASHP without causing it to short cycle. I went for a PAW-FC-D15-1 which is way too small for a 8.5kW ecodan. 2/ pay attention to the "water pressure drop" figure. I really have little idea what this is for, but if you intend to have >1 FCU (or add more in future of different sizes) I believe matching them all with same/similar water pressure drop figures will make balancing the system much easier. (Else, perhaps one could use a manifold with salus autobalancing actuators or similar to manage water flow through them, but that's yet more complexity. - again the PAW-FC-D15-1 I have is very low water pressure drop compared to any other, so I would have to bear this in mind if adding more (or, throw out my current one and start over) - aside: why would water pressure drop vary depending on fan speed? Something odd going on in the thermodynamics I don't understand there. 3/ installing a large buffer tank would also help match smaller FCU(s) to a larger ASHP1 point
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This is what the Esbe ARA662 actuator mixing valve I mentioned is for. If Z2 (UFH) only is on, the ASHP pushes out 15C water, but if Z1 and Z2 are on it pushes out 5C to send to the fancoil, and the mixing valve closes back enough such that 15C remains circulating in the UFH (The controller is really graceful - it completely closes the mixing valve off first then changes the primary flow temperature, then slowly opens the mixing valve until correct temp is reached, so as not to shock the system with under/over temp flow )1 point
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They are really handy if there are neighbouring buildings and you need an elevation in context. Also for drain inverts, cover levels and setting out points. 180 sounds very cheap1 point
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Commissioning is mainly getting the system balanced. There are a couple of airflow meters in the forum tool loan scheme for doing the flow measurement at each terminal. The process is a bit iterative, but really just needs patience, going around every ceiling terminal, measuring the flow rate and then adjusting it up and down to get the required extract rates from specified rooms (kitchen, bathroom, WC, utility, as in building regs), making sure the sum of the fresh air supply equals the sum of the extracts and also that the total background ventilation rate meets the figure in building regs. Forget about trying to run air conditioning via MVHR, the flow rate is way too low to make any useful difference. We have an MVHR that cools the air, but it's not very effective in warm weather at all.1 point
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Welcome. Back in the 1990s, a girlfriend dragged me off to see Jo Brand at Dartford. The opening line of her show was. "I looked up some information about Dartford, found it was twinned with Bernard Manning's arsehole". From that I assumed she had never been to Erith, or Gravesend.0 points
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I can't read script that small now ... add a dose of pollen to the air ... smudge my glasses a bit ... crack a joke, make me cry with laughter ... functionally blind. ?0 points
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