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Saucepan, downstairs. Try this. It might work for your needs. move the lounge/porch dividing wall maybes 1 metre up into the lounge to where the stairs end. Approx in line with where the kitchen and dining areas dividing line is. Then Move the lounge/dining dividing wall left maybes 0.5-1m left (squaring off the study to make it maybes 3-3.2 m wide something like that). This will make your lounge squarer approx 4.5 x 5.5 something like that. If you need doors between lounge and dining use pocket doors. The porch area will then be big. push your utility to the right and Into the now bigger porch space, partially under the stair, with access from kitchen or porch if you prefer. You may need to change your stairs to an L shape to land upstairs in the same place. the result will be your kitchen diner shouldn’t have the utility area stuck midway. If this new utility space partially under the stairs isn’t quite big enough your doors could be double doors from kitchen to access sort of a deep but wide utility cupboard / laundry, galley area as opposed to a walk in room. the island does look far better than the breakfast bar. The utility block as is does spoil that feature room, but I think you’re moving in the right direction,

It should always be a priority, not having one leaves quotes open to interpretation/imagination of the suppliers at the quoting stage. Your architect hasn't indicated any handling of windows on the elevation drawings for example. That's not that overly large but the width/height ratio would need to be checked, max glass size for laminated pane/toughened pane also accessibility to site and on site. How will they be manouvered? Things like that will determine whether being supplied in one unit or coupled is more feasible. Generally speaking, 3m height is fine (width dependant), they and others will be able to do 4m height (width dependant).

That's the first thing you do, can't defend them tbh.

It really boils down to two things. 1: Architects and clients discussing large items and on first/second floor without discussing how it will be achieved. 2: Clients not willing to pay for the equipment required to do the work safely. It’s the window suppliers responsibility to supply it, it is their responsibility to refuse to install it without having the proper equipment which someone needs to pay for. It’s not difficult to ascertain what is needed from the point of quote. Some won’t add it to be more competitive. HSE rules are clear, what you deem safe to lift (no weight limit) but manual handling should be the last resort and mechanical lifting the chosen method. We’ve just finished installing over 300 windows and doors to an commercial site in Exeter (Care Home) and every single window was installed with a glazing robot. It slows the install down, it slows other trades down and it’s a bloody expensive part of the install (happy days for hire company). CSCS cards are good but it advantagoues to have someone with SSSTS or SMSTS. These are more common for installers on a commercial site. You can have CHAS and constructionline as a supplier (we do) but they ain’t worth the paper they are printed on and that’s being honest. Simply a box ticking exercise. Mistakes in measurements happen, they shouldn’t but they do. Austrian suppliers are known to put issues into normal production queue without special treatment. I’m far from perfect but when you **** up, take ownership.

Yeah much better downtairs! Even getting seats in the hallway! And a pantry! A proper architect will get it even better. I would definitely only have the pocket doors between dining & kitchen. Also think about your kitchen units again. With your pantry, utility and island unit that’s an awful lot of base units in front of the back window, consider drawing your kitchen unit layout before committing to room layout. Still think full height windows there which would look amazing with your big island etc. if there is a change upstairs your stairs can start In an improved location In the hallway downstairs. i had a look at your upstairs but struggled to get 4 beds with en-suite but I’m sure an architect could squeeze them in if essential for you to have so many en suite. Bear in mind this would result in 6 toilets through the house though. Upstairs you currently have a lot of funny shaped room try to get them squared as much as possible. As opposed to shower boxes in each room. Another reason think carpets. Currently your room shapes will result in lots of off big off cuts that you’ll be paying for. Also one has two dimensions greater than 5m so you won’t get a standard carpet to fit. would love to see what your architect comes up with ! Good luck !

I genuinely believed you'd sorted the leak years ago. Edit: Around the same time you sold that glass...

Reading the title I'd expected to see you'd finally found bladder leak underwear that was actually pretty.

Looking much better. Pocket doors are good if you don't need to open or close them often. They are a hassle to fit and operate and they limit what you can do with the walls either side.

It's projected footprint of rooms within thermal envelope. This means an integral garage with no room above is excluded, but any first floor overhangs have to be included. The exact amount of PV you need is based on PER. If your PER is less than 45 kWh/(m²a) you don't actually need a full 60 kWh/m²AProjected*a. We are also targeting PH+ and these are our numbers: Heating Demand: 11kW Treated Floor Area: 305m2 Projected footprint: 208m2 PER: 30 kWh/(m²a) PV required: 38 kWh/m²AProjected*a.) = 7904kWh/yr In our case (south-east england) and ignoring shading (which is minimal anyway) this requires 27 x 360W panels split over east/south/west roofs. Regarding DNO and export, this really comes down to what you grid is like locally. For 10kW in our area we have the option to use single phase or three phase, but we've decided to go with a three-phase inverter because the bungalow we knocked down already had a three phase supply. You can apply for what you'd ideally want to do and then work backwards from there with most DNO's. Also some DNO's have a online map which will give you a rough idea. e.g. https://www.ssen.co.uk/generationavailability/

Amazing product. They carry such a wide variety of quality products, all currently on special offer. I like some of the photo compositions in their adverts:

Im all for trying to save a few quid but didn't have the guts to even attempt doing it without a crane. Our beam was a 305 x 165 beast weighing 54kg a meter so near a tonne at 6.5m.

If it wasn’t you, it would have been @SteamyTea that jumped on it lol

This covers the past few weekends of family effort. My friendly builder Jeff is finishing off another job for my electrician (the Island is a small place) so we're been plodding along on our own. First, we needed to screw down the 50x38 counter battens at 300mm centres. The first pair in place with me balancing on the north side with my new roof ladder. The battens themselves are to be spaced at 600mm centres, but because we were worried about high winds that weekend we put up every other batten across the whole roof. This should hold the membrane secure for a while. This is the south side where the solar array will eventually go. (Yes, the wrinkles in the membrane do annoy me.) Battening calls for new toys and ear defenders. I bought an ex demo 1st fix nail gun for a good price. I'm very pleased with it, and nothing that moves when it shouldn't is safe now. We are fitting 300x600mm slates when they arrive with a headlap of 80mm. Our BCO has agreed this is sufficient. This makes the batten gauge 260mm. About half way up now. I'm tired, so it's time for a quick snooze. SIPS is good for this - more comfortable than it looks! Getting there slowly. Making the joints come out in the right places without a lot of waste is a good game on a long piece of roof. My daughter is firmly of the opinion that I've built the largest climbing frame on the Island. Just for her amusement. We test fitted the first piece of continuous dry verge (aka annoying black snake). I'm pleased we went for this instead of the sectional version even if it is awkward to handle. A quick QA visit from Griff and Raffe making sure there's nothing too badly wrong.

Nit: 8kWh (I've not checked the calc, just corrected the units)

110 will be easier to install (more rigid, easier to set levels) and with brewing waste it's inevitable that you'll get a build up of sugary waste that will quickly block a 32 or 40mm pipe. (Proud builder and previous owner of a brewshed)

Legionella in domestic systems is extremely unlikely as it needs air to breed - and a UVC is a sealed system. There are no known reported cases of it in a domestic water system. Even if it was required, it needs 8Kw to heat 400 litres from 48-65c. Using an immersion heater that is 2.5 hours, or about 18p on E7 twice a month. £5 per year.

Our tank is 250l and we heat it to 47c. That’s for 2 adults and a 4 year old. We’ve never run out of hot water. Takes about 30 mins to heat from 18c to 48c don’t go too big or youll just be paying for a large tank of water to lose heat

Round here closeboard fencing is 3m bays, panel is 2.4m.

The window head board looks like it sits directly underneath the cladding, when you have driving wind and rain won't it run down the cladding above and track back into the property or is it angled? It's not uncommon for the larch to split and crack when drying out. We screwed all of our cladding so we can remove each piece. Eventually going to replace a few boards that have bad splits but there is not many. I did the window head like this:

Looking at the first floor, there has to be a way to position the top two en-suites in one line on top of each other, thus squaring off both bedrooms.

You could try the WC to where the door to the lounge is, then it would have a small window and you could do a double door into the kitchen The door to the lounge would be where storage is marked and storage would be just under the stairs. I am not sure which would be better and it may not work to access the storage, this might be an issue anyway as the height of the stairs all still be quite low where the lounge wall is. If the utility room is just for laundry and you don't mind tumble drying I think you could rejig things and make it a cupboard upstairs, I think you are getting there ?

If it is so dark, I would be more inclined to go for white, or light (eg cream or pale yellow or blue or pink), render. Or stainless. Or even mirror. Done carfully, you could make it look like a secret garden through a doorway. Though plenty of plants grow in complete absence of sunlight. A photo would probably help us. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/design/lideas/mirrors-in-garden-design.htm https://empressofdirt.net/garden-mirrors/ https://www.gardenbuildingsdirect.co.uk/blog/11-amazing-ways-to-use-garden-mirrors/

Septic tanks are still legal as long as you're not discharging directly into a watercourse, however I installed a sewage treatment plant as I wanted to future-proof. The output from a sewage treatment plant is much higher quality so your drainage/leach field will last much longer before it clogs up. the downside of most sewage treatment plants is that they are noisy. Septic tanks are silent. The air blower on our sewage treatment plant costs about £25/year to run. Septic tanks have no running cost.

What us grockel, overners would call "minging" then! ?

I'd carry an American fridge freezer up stairs on my back for a crack at that Kaley Cuoco! ? Edit: Not that I'd impress her before, during or after!