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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/20 in all areas
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The capacitor has just arrived and the pump works ! Might have saved me £300! Thanks very much !2 points
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Which brings into question is it really worth paying an MCS company to install a complete system so you can claim the RHI? Many of us have found it way cheaper to source the parts ourselves and self install and forget all about the RHI. Personally I have long concluded that with the inflated MCS prices often charged, the only winners are the MCS companies. My heating cost is a little over £200 per year via the ASHP. So assuming a COP of 3, that would me more like £600 with resistance heating. So saving £400 per year. The price I paid for my ASHP by the end of this year, the saving in heating costs will have paid for it.1 point
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Take it you need something to go over that bracket in the photo and allow a screw to go through it? If so what about spire clips?1 point
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When you have had mains pressure water from all taps, hot and cold, you would never ever want to go back to 19th century plumbing. Beware of finding leaks in the pipework that has been fine for the last 40 years at low pressure.1 point
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Hi, We built a 190m2 ICF house with triple glazing, 300mm eps underfloor, 600+mm insulation in loft, MVHR Our house is all electric but we do have a wood burning stove. Our heating and hotwater come from E7, heating by direct imersion a 500L thermal store, wet underfloor heating downstairs. No heating upstairs. Total electricity demand in the last 12 months has been 7200 kWHr. E7 overnight useage = 3800 kWHr, if you assume that the background load for all the usual bits and bobs is 250w, then the energy to provide heating and hot water is around 3100kWHr/year. 1 kWHr of E7 electricity costs around 7.2p, therefore we provide heating and hot water for about £230/yr. If we did it all with an ASHP @ a COP of 4, then this bill would drop to around £60/yr. This means an ASHP would save about £170/yr - and that assumes no breakdowns or maintenance. By the time an ASHP has paid itself back, it is in the scrap bin and you need to buy a new one. Stick to an imersion heater, much cheaper in the short term, long term, and less to go wrong.1 point
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cut a piece of solvent pipe about an inch long. split the back and take 10mm out using a multi-tool or hacksaw. Scrub the inside with sandpaper, same on the pipe and a quick spread of glue over the joint and clip the repair over - it will spring on and try and hold itself on anyway, glue is there to seal the hole1 point
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Just glue a patch on it. As long as it’s the top and not the bottom.1 point
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Yes - so the door comes down onto the edge of the rubber ramp1 point
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If it's solvent weld pipe then it's no big deal tbh. Expose the pipe, clean it and solvent weld a curved sliver of the same pipe onto it.1 point
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@ProDaveis a yachtsman, so going backwards down a companionway ladder is natural to him.1 point
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You need to take action against NHBC. Their tolerances for floors are poor and there is a fair bit of allowable deflection. If they are acknowledging it as defective, the remedy will be very disruptive or impossible depending on the ground floor walls / first floor joist layouts. Explain that you are unwilling to accept a cash settlement. You need to go in hard with them and keep going. Come back to us as many times as you like until you get it resolved to your complete satisfaction.1 point
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As you can see from my photos, my slab is flat and the transition to the ACO drainage channel and drive is also flat/level. It is SUDS drive which gently slopes way from the garage and house. I have a 4877mm x 2125mm HORMANN electrical operated garage door, which incorporates a substantial rubber seal on the bottom of the door , which compresses slightly as the door closes.. We have never experienced any water ingress, even from driving rain, and no leaves or dirt blow in when the door is closed.1 point
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Dimensions are about right.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07Z67Y9MG/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Says brass but is it all brass or part plastic? Ask?1 point
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Based on the First Minister's latest address it looks like Scottish builders will be able to start stages 0-2 the restart plan as of 28th May. I had a job finding what the restart plan actually is so I've pasted it below for others. Phase 0: Planning Phase 1: Covid-19 Pre-start Site prep Phase 2: ‘Soft start’ to site works (only where physical distancing can be maintained) Phase 3: Steady state operation (only where physical distancing can be maintained) Phase 4: Steady state operation (where physical distancing can be maintained and/or with PPE use) Phase 5: Increasing density/productivity with experience1 point
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Hi, I'm new to this, and have never built a self-build before. I've put an offer on some land with some planning, got a mortgage in principle and off I go! I've used a lot of advice from the forums to look at all the pros and cons, and am leaning towards an ICF build. From what I've gleaned getting an experience Build Contractor is 90% of the battle, and near Glasgow - all the builders are joiners by trade, so naturally want to build stuff out of wood. Has anyone imported services in this area, or looked into it? I'm looking at Amvic, but i'm open to any quality ICF system. Thanks, Tim1 point
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Whenever i've had any Gas or Electric work done, and its been registered with the relevant authorities, it gets sent automatically to building control. But yes, you won't get completion cert without them.1 point
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I am sure you do, just as you need an electrical installation certificate for the wiring. My gas safe certificate was done about 3 weeks ago.1 point
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Can you get into the modem status pages? Things like signal to noise ratios. How long you have been connected for etc1 point
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@SteamyTea I've got that script running now. I will see if it picks up any outages. Also got the pi music box streaming radio Caroline so I will know when it next drops out as it will all go quiet.1 point
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go for it. Before skimming I also record where the joist run - just in case....1 point
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You just pick whatever tap complies for bregs then fit whatever you like. That's what I do anyway. Just put a grohe mints in today and was very Dissapointed. Flow rate is terrible as the tap is on tiny flexi s to fit all 4 pipes within the tap body. I can't fault wayfair customer services. Full refund without having to return tap. I have had poor customer service from Victoria plum lately.1 point
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I'm now considering using a 10x40mm steel bar with countersunk screws backed off by 30mm from the door and then use a standard rubber ramp in front of it. Behind will get a flow finish flooring compound1 point
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I haven't gotten around to doing anything with this yet, although it's only one or two tasks away at the moment. Currently, I think I'll use plastic tiles like what you've done, but still pondering how to get an outward slope to the slab. I've thought of a few ways, but none of them is perfect.1 point
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We made a 'pond' to which we added bit by over-ordered bit. That base has been used by everyone as a dry, flat conveniently placed work area. Very useful indeed. Didn't have the choice of improving a garage. I decided to do that as creative way of coping with the flash of anger and rage I experienced when one tradesman tipped large material handler bucket's worth of concrete down some banking of ours. Man I was annoyed. Getting on for £300 worth of C30 just tipped down a bank. Furious doesn't cover it. Now, we plan to crack it open with 'feather wedges' and see if we can grow Sea Pinks.... Still mad just thinking about it.?1 point
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There is a start capacitor, probably inside the terminal box, a big cylinder with 2 wires emerging. That has probably failed. Turn the power off and lift the lid off the terminal box and post a picture.1 point
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I guess at least if I did that I'd need less Type 1 this time as SWMBO would be quite happy to compact me into the hole... ?0 points
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cost of screed £2.5K, cost of tiles £2.5k, cost of tiler £2.5k. Cost for removing lattice £120.0 points
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I remember using one of the inflating bungs, it’s like a balloon that you pump up and it grows inside the pipe. So I had the pipe full of water and it’s time to remove the bung, I pushed the little button to deflate it but forgot to hold on tight, the water pressure ripped it from my fingers and I never saw it again. I guess some poor sod a few houses away wondered what this funny ball thing was doing blocking his poo pipe.0 points
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I am afraid that one has failed as well. It was giving 100% packet loss for every test. It suggested it might be a router firewall issue. I looked at their router setup guide only to find BT Home Hub is not supported.0 points
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