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The term warm roof is ambiguous. Some people use it to mean a warm loft others that the insulation is above the rafters so the rafters are warm. Personally I would encourage people to use the following terms.. Cold loft - insulation is at joist level Warm loft - insulation is at rafter level Cold roof - rafters are on the cold side of the insulation (eg the insulation is between or under the rafters or at joist level. Warm roof - rafters are on the warm side of the insulation (eg the insulation is mainly above, but possibly some between, the rafters). The above also effects how/if the loft is ventilated. Are there any drawings available to show what was intended? Building Control might have a set?

Yeh some fool whose done a self build ?

And....... Granted, after 27.6 weeks, not that I am counting ? Not even a request for an extension with the decision. Massive thank you to the buildhub community for the help getting this through! Can't quite believe it's actually got permission after the sites history of refusals and us asking for more than those! Today feels like a win!

A lot of companies that sell the retro-stuff sail very close the wind with regards to their suitability for a house with no/or very little insulation. I nearly went down that very path. I've had issues with digging up all my floors and it's delayed things by far. Then had some cowboy anchor screw up the concrete pour - still rectifying the last few rooms now! But the property is a long term home for us, so I didn't want to heating the local moles and went down the more difficult route by adding 300mm+ of EPS under the slab. You may even be better sticking to radiators than going for retrofit UFH.

Note, @Charlie, @Charley and @Charly are distinct accounts. ?

Yes - the way to look at it is to think of the LED source on the small profile and the whole ceiling area as a luminaire in its own right. So work out the delivered lumens from the ceiling, which in this situation is the reflector. Reflectance of a smooth gypsum plaster painted matt white has a Rho (surface reflectance factor) of 80% - also reflectances are dependent on angle, a direct 0° light source will not reflect light directly back well, but as my ceiling is pitched I gain the benefit of a 30° pitch and therefore enter the better reflectance zone. If there was concern of delivered lumens then I would just increase the lumen package but I am fairly confident that I know what I need to throw at the ceiling to gain the necessary light level. I have several lighting details throughout the kitchen to provide a higher level of illuminance to task areas, and indeed to be independently switched to provide a low level evening ambient light. I'll maybe do a whole post all about how it was designed and calculated when I actually get it installed.

If anybody intends living on site I strongly recommend watching a you tube couple called. PURE LIVING FOR LIFE. look at how they have built an outbuilding in front of the door to their caravan and fitted a woodburner. Be careful not to copy any of their building practices as he is a total dork and cocks everything up, but the shed in front of the caravan is brilliant and will turn a miserable winter into a nice jolly place to be. I actually have the same same situation on our current house, cold miserable bungalow but add a bootroom with wood burner and it’s transformed, dry clothes warm and cosy dogs, non moaning wife.

new or s/h "z" purlins use full length or cut them into short lengths and fix chip board to them --would be a lot cheaper than loft legs to do all your loft I think just a another choice

Sorry for not replying sooner, Onoff I run it into the scrap dealers less than a mile away . It's a fantastic plot or will be after its cleaned up , moving the scrap was a 3 stage process Firstly by hand up a steep slope to where I could load in to dumper ( first time I've used a dumper so settled on a 1 tonne To get used to ) then 2 days loading the dumper and driving 100 mtrs up the hill to where I could get a truck in . Finally loading on to the truck and running 12 loads to the scrap dealers . A few numbers : Tipper truck hire £80pd x 2 + £50 in diesel S&JRomford 1 tonne Thaites Dumper £160 pw +£40 + (diesel not known yet ) Wickham Diggers Scrap 9 Ton this included £58 for 7 old car batteries. Biggin hill Scrap dealers Waterproofs for pampered Son £28 Decathlon sport. Total out going £438 Scrap money received £602 = +£164 ?

To be fair, lighting calculations will be done using software - however, I don't think calcs are necessary here - it is a domestic setting. If I was to offer a lighting design service for a client, I would produce a full set of CAD drawings, with all the details, such as suspension heights or wall mounting heights, it would come with a full luminaire schedule outlining all the product, precise spec, colour temperatures etc. I would also provide some 3D renders and a concept board with imagery and sketches etc. it would be a proper lighting package. I would not probably run any calcs for a domestic property, only maybe to check we could achieve a decent illuminance in areas like a kitchen and to check the combination of lighting specified would work well to deliver a good ambient light level - it also then lets me show a client what it would loosely look like. I would not throw a set of lighting level calculations at you and expect you think you are sorted. Those are there for building design, to ensure lighting complies with the regs - what do they expect you to be able to tell, as an end user, from those calcs? It probably, with all due respect, means very little to most people. What a joke. In my kitchen I am having no down-lights, I am going to use recessed linear details hidden into sections of wall and bulkheads to largely have the lighting almost invisible, the kitchen will just glow with light. There will be a single suspended continuous linear LED product, very low profile, circa 30x7mm - but I will need to mock it up to get the size right in proportion to the rest of the space - and about 4m long, I want it powder-coated burgundy or royal blue or something so it standing out as an object, but not as a light, it will be indirect light only (i.e. uplight only) - this will wash the vaulted ceiling section with light which will provide reflected light and the general lighting to the space.

Yeah loft legs are brilliant, i've just done half of my loft out with loft leg XL which allows me to get 400mm in there, they're a small premium over the standard legs.

Welcome Have you applied for your CIL exemption?

There's various options but as far as I know loft legs are the easiest/most thermally efficient solution

It'd be interesting to know what the temperature of the rafters is. It seems to me that if the loft is only a few degrees cooler than the house then there must be massive thermal bypass of the insulation between the ceiling joists (assuming it's actually there - has that been verified or it just a matter of assumption which can't be checked because of the chipboard?). Most likely that's down to air leakage through the ceiling in which case it seems likely there's warm moist house air in direct contact with chilly rafters which seems like a poor idea. It'd be worth checking the temperatures of the tops of the rafters with an IR thermometer.

Sure @Moonshine. I'll send you a PM.

have a look to the comments here:

Well nobody shouted at me not to do it, so I have done it. And here it is with the shelf in place There were a few other things that constrained me, like the position of the main stop tap, otherwise I could have put the shelf a bit higher still. For those pondering the details, in effect I was intercepting and modifying the "inner workings" of a waste trap system. That presents a few difficulties. The main one being the pipe used withing the trap is 40mm, yes real 40mm outside diameter pipe. Unlike the "40mm" waste pipe we all buy and use that is something like 43mm outside diameter. So standard "40mm" waste pipe and fittings are no good for modifying an intermediate bit of a waste system. The solution. 40mm compression waste fittings have enough give to compress down onto real 40mm pipe so that is what I used for the 2 elbows. That means the extra horizontal bit is 43mm pipe. That just meant I needed an extra bit of real 40mm pipe, which of course you cannot easily buy. The solution to that is my washing machine stand pipe is now 6" shorter than it was this morning to donate the 6" of 40mm pipe I needed. Have I ever mentioned I hate waste pipe and fittings and the fact not all bits fit together as one might hope? More on this thread to come when I have made more progress on the job in hand and taken some more pictures.

The Siga Sicrall sticks well enough to pull individual beads out of the EPS.

You can stick it down with Ardex Just make sure the flooring is solid and clean We hardly ever use backer on floors now I wouldn’t use the six mill on anything of any size

Just out of curiosity are we talking a full UFH type of manifold or just a old school micro bore type manifold? We are using a ufh type manifold on our upstairs rads so we can control flow temp from thermal store and no TRV's just room stats via phone app. I dont like painted copper pipes as it's very rarely painted nice (always paint over the valve nuts etc). I do like plain copper or chrome pipe especially to towel rails etc. I would not have push fit fittings on show either as the pretty bulky. Most of our jobs we took the white mlcp (uponor) plastic pipe rite to the radiator valve and used a chrome nut. Never had any customers complain. Ps carpet had yet to be fitted at that job.

An update from the original poster here. Following my request on 15 November, and with just a little prompting, my local planning department has today confirmed that my planning fee will be refunded (via the Planning Portal). Thanks again everyone for your advice! What happened was that after I had received planning approval (I spoke at the planning meeting and witnessed the unanimous vote in favour) but before receiving the formal letter from the head of the planning department, my planning officer emailed as follows: Following your collective advice, I of course politely declined to confirm any such thing. And as soon as I received the decision letter, I emailed asking for my fee to be refunded.

Get it approved first, then reflect.

I've done this, scattered a friends ashes from the air. It's far, far harder than it seems. I made up a length of plastic soil pipe, with a lanyard to stop it falling out of the aeroplane, and poked this out through the partially opened door. When you get the ashes from the crem they are usually inside a plastic bag that's inside the pot they give you. Luckily I decided to do a practice run, using some ash from a bonfire, first. I rigged up an elastic band tied to a bit of cord as a way of sealing the end of the plastic bag, and arranged it so the plastic bag of ashes was inside the bit of pipe, with the open end (sealed with the rubber band) facing downwards. We flew over the practice area, I pulled the string, and the inside of the aircraft filled with ash... When we landed we were both covered from head to foot in ash, and had to spend an hour cleaning the stuff out of the inside of the aeroplane. We did two more practice runs, and found that we needed a really long bit of pipe to get the ash to fall away, and not get blown back. The other problem was that the ash tended to come out as a massive "bomb" in one big lump, rather than as the gentle scatter we'd envisaged. The final version of the ash dispenser used a smaller pipe (a bit of drain pipe) and had holes about 12mm in diameter drilled around the lower edge. We also transferred the ashes into a narrower bag, and added a taped restriction just before the neck of the bag, to limit the flow rate. This worked OK, although the reports we had from our friends gathered on the hill to see our friend scattered to the wind were that they didn't really see the ashes come out at all. I should add that what we did was an offence - it's against the Air Navigation Order to drop stuff from a civilian aircraft. We may also have been in breach of the 500ft rule, too, as we wanted to get as close as we could to the mourners.

Birmingham