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I agree with this wholeheartedly with what @Declan52 said. I have been building little walls and structures fairly successfully for 20-25 years, and last year when we kicked off the building works with the garage I approached a brickie and got him to work - he worked FT for a firm so did it for me on weekends on his own (my whole build has been like this - he was good, very good so I was happy for it to take significantly longer) so the deal was I would labour for him. I told him just to order me about and I would get on with it. Most of the time my setup time only took an hour or so with a top up every couple of hours so not too bad. On day one I was clearly versed on how to best setup block and brick for the brickie and how to make a really nice mortar by the mixer load more or less by eye. Not rocket science but how he wanted the site setup made a lot of sense to a pro doing a large structure and meant he only had to move a foot or two to grab block and lay it. The mortar was also laid out on boards spread along the wall - I have always used a bucket or barrow and end up moving it along with me which actually just costs time and hassle. Then the actual brick/block laying, I watched him lay 1000's of blocks and when doing lintels and things I helped. I learnt so much just by watching, little tricks to lift a block up above your head and place it in square and level by basically balancing an edge on your thumbnail and holding the other end with your hand - daft things like that. About a week after he left I needed to build a small wall maybe 5 blocks high, I kid you not, I was so impressed with my work I didn't want to have it dry dashed and was sad to see it all covered up. It was the straightest, most level block work I have ever done and I can attribute the vast improvement to watching and learning on the job and that was only over about a 12 months period when he has been on and off our site. I would honestly happily build a garage now - the cost would be the time for me, it would take me much much longer. Imagine what you could learn doing it constantly.

Blimey some kudos.. I'm gonna fall off my perch. Thanks RO.. I thought I dealt with this (a v. heavy call) pretty fkn well tbh: kept him happy but showed I was aware of mistake gaining a bit of a bargaining position. The fact I didn't kick up a fuss over this AND the dumper-in-forest police fiasco.. as any other client would.. = some respect from him. Yes- understood: thread's drifted off topic from concrete/ rain > to the build > to police matters > & on to this tricky & stressful situation/ mistake opening a can of worms & hence the many replies. Right time to draw a line.. hope the build can progress A+ from here. The fact I vented some stress out on here, rather than at my builder, has been extremely beneficial in the end.. so thx alot for reading my bllx & apologies if I got a bit shirty. zoot.

You can get similar tiles that are, for want of a better word, "smoother" to use on shallower angle roofs. Check the Marley ones are as suitable as the Redland for your angle.

Yes I’ve got one. mach3 is the software - G-code converter for the CNC board. You can get just USB boards but they tend to be a bit slow as they can’t transmit as fast as you basically have a massive USB DAC overhead so the actual G-Code translation is slow. Not ideal for plasma as that needs very fast and precise control. A router can go slow, a plasma going slow just creates a dripping mess ...

@Onoff, I have a USB CNC driver here somewhere, a Mk1 Smoothstepper: https://warp9td.com/ It's yours if you want it. I bought it but never got around to using it, as I opted to use a stand-alone system.

That's the clipped direct mechanical support requirement. All the 18th has to say about the fire cable droop prevention requirement is this:

This is 17th Edition, still up-to-date on the spacing? Applicable to firefighter safety as well as just cable support? https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/clips-maximum-spacing-distance.4153/ osg table 4a < 9 250 horizontal 400 vertical

Yeh got one ... uses a parallel port connector though ..!! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254328587377

Ok, it’s pretty much a single standard for clipping ( banding ) but as I said you can cheat if there are pozi joists and you run through the points where the two metal webs converted on the lower chord. ?. Now the 18th Ed refreshers are out and most sparks have sat it and are fluent, it’s things like this which are now getting reiterated whereas before most sparks treated it as ‘optional’ or done to attain a gold star. My lead electrician has just done his 18th / peripheral refreshers and is now ‘on point’ in all these matters of elastictrickery. ?

I'd only use trunking (or cable tray for that matter) where there are long runs and lots of cables to support, just because it makes life a bit easier when laying the cables. It's easy enough to just route short runs of cable out of the trunking to devices, sensors etc, just clipping the wires directly.

The regs just say this, so not much help! : The intention is to prevent cables being able to droop down and cause a snagging hazard for firefighters, so I'd guess that fitting clips every 300 to 500mm or so in trunking is probably OK.

The metal fire clips stop the cables from falling. Before the changes to the regs, PVC trunking on it's own was fine for most applications, after the changes you just need to add the metal fire clips when fixing the trunking in place, so these can hold the cables up when the trunking melts.

No - it's a water pipe. Only need to worry if you are actually working on oil or gas lines or the appliances themselves. I could go and install a whole DHW/CH system right now and only have the gas man do the gas and the flue - in fact, I could lay in the pipes, solder them together but just not connect at the gas meter or the appliance - gas fitter does that and does the pressure test and at that can certify your work - many would not do this for obvious reasons but it is not illegal.

It's normal with conduit to fit junctions that allow access, both in long straight runs and at corners: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Conduit_Pvc_Index/20mm_Conduit_and_Fittings_Black/index.html With trunking you don't need these, as the lid comes off, so everything is just laid in the U section of the trunking, then when all the cables are in, the fire clips are bent over and the lid clipped on. Trunking still needs corner fittings, tees etc, but like the trunking itself the top comes off for access.

Just fitted lots of Regents but on a 18 degree pitch - if you are going to use the eaves clips as the second method of fixing the perimeter tiles, best order them now. The half tiles are very good if you want to avoid small cuts around windows etc (not cheap though)

If it were me, then I'd run the data cable in trunking, with the trunking secured with fire resistant clips.. Take a look at something like the D Line trunking system, as they include fire rated clips. Makes the installation a fair bit easier if you're just feeding cables into trunking. Trunking: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/index.html D Line fire rated clips: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Dline_SD_CLIPS/index.html More details from D Line: https://www.d-line-it.com/safed-clips/

nope - just follow the Manufacturers instructions, use a decent underlay and install that with decent laps (min 300mm) and make sure you don’t puncture it.

No, it's a type of luminaire often used in plant areas, damp/dusty or potentially impact zones, tunnels, shed, garages, warehouses and sites. It's good on sites where dust and mechanical impact may be an issue - was more of an issue when we used T12/8/5 lamps but the luminaire style is still very common. Made entirely of non-corrosive materials, often all plastics - sometimes metal with paint finishes but not common. The 180° diffuser also helps with ligt distribution and on good model incorporates a micro-prismatic or Fresnel optic to aid in light distribution while reducing glariness such as is found on opal diffuser models.

You should keep data and power cables well separated, but that's really the only restriction, other than the previously mentioned one of fire resistance of cable clips and supports. Personally I like to make sure cables are clipped to a batten or board, in a location where they aren't likely to get damaged and also where they can be seen easily for inspection, etc. Doing this in neat lines also makes it easier to identify circuits later if there's a need to change anything. There's also a max spacing between cable fixings in the regs, plus I'd not use potentially sharp edged banding as cable clips.

just use some big chunky cable ties as your temp fixing. Once you’ve run all your cables use the band as a final fix. Simples.

No, a LLH doesn't provide any separation.

Try this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F290952966223

Two things, don’t like those gallows brackets, I would look at the angle iron version available from most builders merchants. I would look at the brickwork and find how stable it is to take fixings that bit under the bay window looks a bit suspect, according to this it may pay to get a couple of brackets fabbed up so you can get fixings lower down to pick up better brickwork. I have just just had a couple of posts fabbed by a local steel company and they where cheaper than expected.

you say the intention was always to multipanel the enclosure so you must have thought about the gap at the top?? what i would be doing is fitting a 1300 tray, battening out 1 wall then fitting the panels with a straight joint at the top with a 300mm bit of plasterboard at the top, you will have to fill in this gap with something whether the wall as strapped out 50mm or the multipanel is just stuck straight onto the plaster, these photos show what it looks like to have the plasterboard and multipanel flush with each other

When I suggested that approach, all I heard was many reasons why it would not happen. I find it best to get these things sorted out before purchase. If the vendor is unwilling/unable, then find someone that can accommodate it.

First step is read the other threads on this forum! Then buy a lot of plastic inserts for ring binders to put reciepts in (or similar storage that keeps them in date order.) Labor - zero rated to you, VAT paid in error cannot be reclaimed. Materials you buy - VAT can be reclaimed. Mixed (supply and fit) both materials and labour must be zero rated to you. Tool hire - VAT is charged and cannot be reclaimed. Any doubt ask here before you accept a quote.

Also, you can't reclaim on labour but you should be able to get it zero rated so if you hire scaffolding and have the company erect and dismantle it you can usefully get them to split the invoice out into labour (zero rate) and hire (full VAT).

I don't have plans to chase the whole wall just to allow the tray in, hence my concern about how much of the tray will end up covered up. My pipes and all are in the walls already. Building out isn't that simple as I have high ceilings and therefore will have some exposed wall above the multipanel, think shower enclosure style, not sure how I would deal with that if I build out. As I wasn't planning to tile the whole en-suite how would I deal with the small return on the built out wall.

Depends if you want to be able to claim on your SE's indemnity insurance later because if you go against their instructions and something goes wrong you're in a tricky position. Have you approached the SE with the BCO's view to see what his thoughts are?

Just don't go washing her overalls for her @Lift span

Fingers crossed I win at least a tenner then!

Hey! I’m praying for planning permission so I can use that walk on glazing on a house that I have no idea how we are going to pay for yet. ??

I promise if I win big I'll buy that glazing!

Not likely ! I already have plenty to keep him busy......for about a year lol ?

Yes but I don't know if it will solve your problem. (any of them).

Edit: Whoops thought you we talking boilers then noticed the forum topic. Is that just a strange way of saying "we don't deal direct with retail customers thinking of buying a single boiler".

You’ve drained the chuffing thing so many times it’ll be like Evian by now ?. +1. Contamination is moot afaic if there’s a filter in place and the water is correctly chemically treated. LLH all the way for me. Hydraulic separation is way OTT here sorry.

The issue really is one of what laws, if any, have been breached. There's a possible misuse of copyright material, in that the copyright holder hasn't given consent for publication of their material for a purpose other than that for which they granted a limited licence to the LA. This needs to be checked, as it may well be that the publication licence implicitly granted to the LA when submitting plans is broader than just publication relating to the copyright holders specific application (this should be buried in the small print somewhere, either in the Planning Portal or the LA terms and conditions). It's well worth reading the law regarding libel, as there is a specific public interest clause that allows information to be published that may, possibly, otherwise be considered libellous if it is in the public interest to do so. There would seem to be a very strong argument here that the LA considered that including this information to give context to another application was in the public interest. The key point is whether or not it was appropriate to include the signature box, identifying the author. It could be argued that this part should have been redacted, but equally it could be argued that the LA are required to identify the copyright holder, as they are using material under the terms of the licence granted by that copyright holder, which may require them to include the attribution. That seems a wholly unreasonable comment, as it implies that a group of people are acting in concert, when I know beyond any doubt whatsoever that this is not the case. Of course, it may be that those to whom you have falsely referred in this statement consider that comment to be defamation of their good character, simply because the comment is demonstrably false and harmful to their reputation. That is indeed libel...