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In the 80s it was not unusual for itinerant skilled workers to get paid on Friday, go into town Saturday and buy a new suit, get pissed up, have a fight in a nightclub and wear the same suit to the building site on the Monday.

Right then folks let’s have a whip round for @Onoff and get him a little prezzie ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01H2T4VXS

I think so. Or at least the option is there to do that if you put enough energy in to it.

A tip I got from another forum from a passive house builder (who was nearly as tight as me ?) was to let the bath water sit there after a bath till it was at room temp, it helped heat the house, better than some fancy heat recovery system in the drains,!!!

Do this around the outside of the bath too. The wife won't complain about it. I wonder if you could arrange for a 2 compartment airing cupboard? Although it might be too difficult at a late stage in the build... Something I could think about though.

I a similar one in the solar thermal thread. If I used twice as much water, solar thermal became cost effective in my DHW model... But let's not open that one up again. Nice plan with the E7 use. I was looking at writing a control system that looked at what the likely morning water use would be, took a guess at how much sun there would be and then heated the tank accordingly. If it was wrong then it would correct itself by using high cost electricity to support the evening water use.

T'will be shitted up with the scale, and the seal will likely give up. Change the seal at the very least, but they're not expensive tbh. If you've no PV and don't use it then fit the existing one back in. New seal though, as a leak would be 'not nice'.

Tanking paste under it, then use a squeegee or plastic scraper to press the cuff on. Then let it dry and add another coat on top.

Yes to the first question and 'sort of' to the second. We have various tickets for chainsaw work, but we also paid people to do the bits we couldn't (mainly aerial work and extraction).

I do appear to have a resolution with the fitment of a different style of sill. For anyone getting a Hormann Thermo65 i'd suggest raising the sill choice question with your supplier and hope they're experienced enough to advise well. Hormann approve the S11 and S12 sills for this door. The S12 was fastidiously refitted numerous times but plain failed to provide adequate sealing to keep rain out. The S11 appears to have worked. My fitters (acknowledged by Hormann to be amongst the most experienced in the uk with their products) actually said "if the S11 resolves the excessive water issue this will undoubtedly highlight a problem with the S12 to Hörmann!" Hopefully Hormann will modify their compatibility charts etc..meanwhile i'd advise not to buy this door with a S12.

If I could have my way I'd quite happily leave cabling and pipework etc exposed - I hate covering it all up when I've spent so long installing it neatly! Better still, I'd use transparent pipes (soil pipes excepted!).

It was non global, just a local event. There wasn't one, never was. It was misinformation by climate change deniers. This was more a wet period rather than a warm period. Quite often done before the data is released, but can easily be checked up on. Rather a clutching at straws argument as we have satellite data as well as many more weather stations. It does if it has already been answered. I had a girlfriend that would keep asking the same question, but with different words, until she got the answer she wanted. The final answer to her was 'I think we should go our separate ways'.

This is an eve; simpler suggestion. Shower off hall where it should be. Your existing walls left alone to save cost save for one. Kitchen able to be bigger since no one up is transiting through it. Patio doors. Decent light to central space. And you have a big flexible semi-divided space, and can put your study area wherever you want. The only fly in the ointment is that the shower is still rather large. I would consider putting a false all in, and making the K side of the shower room a storage wall accessed through holes made in the brick wall from the kitchen. A unique feature.

The underlying stuff you need to answer here is the question: How do we want to live? Ie do you want divided rooms and lots of spaces, or more modern open plan? Perhaps keep a 7 day diary of activities and use that to help reflect on the next version you come up with. Also, this artlcle may be useful where we talked about terrace plans: Ferdinand

in short, the shower room is 2 or 2.5 times bigger than it needs to be. If it is just a shower room rather than somewhere to spend time relaxing or ironing etc then eg 1.8 x 1.4 or smaller can be doable and give a very generous shower space, though it is quite compact. If you need disabled access etc then it needs to be larger. The more significant issues with this plan are, for a start 1 Room arrangement and connection. Eg consider how far the loo is away if you need a wee whilst boiling an egg. It is an expedition. 2 Light. Both your middle lounge and your office have virtually no natural light. 3 There’s far too much circulation space .. hallway, walking between doors through rooms etc. I think’ what has perhaps happened is cross-purposes with the designer. You perhaps have not the background to be an informed client,and your designer has not challenged you enough beyond your immediate expressed requirements. The particular thing to me is the potential opportunities for improvement which have not been addressed. On the positive side, this is a nice wide terrace with heaps of potential, and that could be 95% done within the existing PP footprint which should only require a minor or non-material amendment, or even a phone call. One simple way to change it would be 1 Make the kitchen diner office right across the back. 2 Take a narrower-than-the-hall corridor straight through the LHS of the office to the kitchen. 3 Put the shower room lengthways roughly where the store and the first part of the office are on the RHS behind the stairs. 4 Put a small utility for washing machines etc behind that. 5 Incorporate a study area into where the part of your shower is currently proposed. So on the RHS of that cross-room. 6 Replace those 2 outside doors with patio doors in the single kitchen space. 7 Include a serious amount of roof glazing in your extension to light the middle lounge. 8 The middle lounge would imo be better with the biggest arch you can make to the kitchen. And that room could be whatever you want. That should not require major planning, but it will need input from Building Control, who you would eg dealing with anyway. The principle is better access to the back, simplify layout without major disturbance to existing, and give light to rooms where you spend time rather than services and machines. Other things are possible, and could give major extra benefit, but that is a simple one. or you could do simpler things. But either this or your original proposal are well Into in the 30k-40k+ area imo cost wise unless you do a lot of DIY, and/or Phase it, which is entirely possible. Ferdinand

At this point I’d be wondering how deep the patio foundations need to be ...

SWMBO just said; "Oh, that's nice!"...

Reminded by a post in another thread to tidy up some code and partially answer the above. Because, with a little bit of contextual information they'll realise that your “apparently authoritative source” is (at best) an incompetent crank. As I mentioned in a post above, I strongly suspected that Heller/Goddard's data was just a simple average of the readings of the stations around the contiguous US. This is a very poor way of dealing with data from stations which are not evenly spread and come and go at different rates in different parts of the country. What I did was write a little Python script (cannibalising some code I'd already written to plot other data) to read the USHCN data and plot it as simple averages and then as area weighted averages. Since the dataset included the US State of each of the stations I simply used the states as the areas. The areas (in km²) of the states came from copy and pasting a table from Wikipedia (referenced in the code). In my graph the blue line should correspond very closely to Heller's blue line for the unadjusted data. The red line is the same but with area weighting. As you can see the area weighting considerably increases the apparent rate of warming over the 120 or so years involved. If you want to play with the code then remove the .txt filename extension added to bamboozle the forum software. Needs Python 3 and gnuplot. ./ushcn.py --help for command line options. The graph was produced with ./ushcn.py --width 900 --height 500 -s 1895 -O ushcn.png The next thing to do would be a similar exercise with the adjusted data to see how much difference area weighting made to that. Maybe one day. ushcn.py.txt

You are getting mixed up with plumbers. ?

Well there were trees on my plot that needed removing. Since at the time there was nothing to damage by felling them, I felled them myself and used my digger to dig the stumps out. One of the potential plots we looked at, would have needed a tree removed to make room for an entrance, and if we had bought that I would have expected it to be me organising it's removal.

Since changing the location of the bathroom I have looked at the space on offer and feel that there is more value to be had by adding a single bedroom in place of the store room. I can still have a cupboard in there with ironing board, mop, hoover etc. LPG boiler will be relocated to cupboard in the hallway. Water pumping station could be housed underneath the cabin and to be honest is probably better there as when pressurising it's noisy! Garden furniture/cushions can be stored underneath the cabin as there will be a 6m x 8m space with about 1.3m headroom. YAY or NAY?

Planning don't really care too much about internal layout so I do wo see whether this is being over thought? Looking at the issues, I doubt Planning would even care and were it me I'd put these in for non material variation after built. Just my tuppenth.

And there was me thinking it was causing bar fights, moaning about scaffolders and scratching your over-exposed hairy asres. I've got it so wrong......

FGS don't buy a curtain to match that blind!!!

No.1 son has just christened the shower. Verdict was "The only problem is I'll miss it when I'm not here!" Water splash/spread is an issue about 1 tile passed the to falls zone. We could be talking curtain/screen! Pretty sure though the body dryer will cure some of it as for sure will UFH. No ventilation yet either.

Yep, it can be very difficult to visualize. When I was designing my house layout I came up with a bathroom size and decided to check if it was too small by comparing it with my then-current house's small bathroom. Found the current bathroom could fit in the proposed one diagonally - so, no, not too small. One thing you could do is to compare it with the minimum standards in building regulations for accessible facilities, in Scotland start with 3.12.3 in https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-2017-domestic/3-environment/312-sanitary-facilities/

Boy back from uni at the weekend so I'll be able to report how the first test of the wet room corner goes as he gets first try!

Visit some DIY shed e.g. B&Q and sit down with the resident kitchen/bathroom designer. Within an hour your should be able to fly around your proposed bathroom or kitchen on screen. Then buy yourself a handheld laser distance measure and visit a few housing estate showrooms, when you see something you like whip out our laser measure. A minimum wc/shower room should be possible in 2m x 2.5m, the 2.3m x 3.6m example in your plan is ginormous.

Welcome to the forum. Basically agree with @the_r_sole, can you post your brief "requirements" and "constraints" - then we can comment more usefully. F

Only just noticed this. Thanks. Edit: Mine will be better, this doesn't have a motor!