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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/24/19 in all areas
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@Sue B will ask. @Dreadnaught I think (and he may correct me!) that conservation area restrictions are superior to PD anyway. I didn't have PD restriction on last house but I did live in a conservation area so had to get permission.2 points
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One is very firmly avoiding enquiring as to whether this curiously and suspiciously unspecified Coronation was Lillibet or George...2 points
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Oh..... looks like I need to give this some more thought then dunnit?2 points
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Noooo bite the bullet and get some help please......hospitals are not nice places!2 points
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I’m not absolutely clear on what the issue is but if I have it right its the gap between first and second floor windows? I’m single storey but think the same priciples apply. At the top I have a metal header to match the windows and the vertical cladding comes down flush to that, have a matching piece of cladding across sitting under the header to make it look neat. At the bottom it is just cut off in a straight line all around and sits off the griund.2 points
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I thought it would be the benefit of the buildhub clan to let you know about my (ongoing) experiences with Logix ICF. I will keep the details of this post a statement of fact. Logix management is aware that I'm going to post. If they decide to respond on this forum please everyone watch out for BS! On 27th Nov I made my order with Logix, confirming with BACS deposit to tune of £4.5k. The stated lead time on the quotation is 4-6weeks. As Christmas fell just before the 4 week mark I expected delivery would be not be until new year. Fine with me, more time for mince pies and cheer. On the 28th Dec, I was informed by email due to 'reorganisation, moving of equipment etc' delivery would be delayed until beginning/middle of Feb. Oh well bang goes January, so I drag the family to Cape Verde for some winter sun. Fri 25th Jan I start hearing some worrying information through the buildhub grapevine that LogixUK are not in a good place financially. Administration is mentioned. Im immediately set into a mild state of panic and although I cannot reach the management by telephone I do receive an email reassuring me that my order is safe. Several days pass and I am able to get some information from the horse's mouth. -Logix manufacturing equipment has not been sold -Manufacturing equipment for Logix not currently operating. Not certain of the reason so I shall not speculate. -Manufacturing scheduled to restart week commencing 25th Feb It was established that there are many other people awaiting delivery of their Logix blocks but I was near the top of the queue. Discount was discussed but no figure agreed. I argued that discount should be arranged now for the current delay and then if there were to be any further delays we could revisit the discount and adjust. This was not accepted. So bang goes another month. This time I'm mad and I'm wondering if I'm being led along. But I try my best to execute some zen like patience! I also tweet the new Vice President for Marketing of Logix based in Canada and hear naff all. Andy Lennox 27/02 I visit Logix office unannounced and find everything closed and post piling up on the door mat. On the phone to management, I'm told manufacturing not yet started, but it is imminent and delivery to be expected early next week. Also told that the blocks will be made in Arundel in Sussex. An easy bit of detective work and I'm on the phone with Styropak who confirm they will manufacturing the blocks in their factory. They tell me that the first trial blocks have yet to come off the production line. I assume delivery will not be 'early next week' after all. I'm getting used to the lies now. The first week of March comes and goes. Unsurprisingly no ICF blocks arrive, but more irritating is no explanation or apology from management as to why the 'early next week' delivery did not materialise. I am informed through a Buildhub member that a Logix customer has been having issues with the quality of blocks received. I speak to this guy and he tells me that many blocks have the inner leaf shorter than the outer leaf. It has affected his build considerably. So much so that he is switching to Nudura to complete the rest of the build. 11/03 find out by calling Styropak that some manufacturing was started on 08/03. I've found the quality of information to be much more accurate when speaking to Styropak directly. I now have a delivery date scheduled for 20th March, I did push this back by two days to suit my own work commitments. The delivery will not include the bracing props, that is scheduled for 3rd April along with the first floor ICF. So there we have it. If all goes to plan I will have waited 18 weeks for enough ICF blocks to build a moderately sized semi-detached cottage. If other builders are currently deciding which ICF manufacturer to use I would recommend proceeding with caution. It's unlikely that anyone else would have to endure similar delays now that the manufacturing equipment is set up in Arandel. However the fact that management has allowed this to happen speaks volumes. Nudura for instance will import product from North America, delivery 4 weeks! I have contacted Logix head office in the States to make them aware of what is going on in the UK and twice been told that someone will call me back. I can only assume their customer service is just as effective as here in the UK.1 point
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If plasterers were musicians, mine would be Elvis (except my plasterer is still alive, obvs!) or some arena-filling brain-melting rock god, because that's how good his plastering is. Others have been trying to coax Ian to work away for the last 3 weeks and they've had to accept failure as he doesn't travel (far). Anyhow, Ian the Plasterer has now left the building apart from a teensy last bit in the hallway that can't be done until the new stairs arrive, so 99% there. The week just gone saw the most challenging part of the plastering, which was the drop down the stairwell and the box section along the floor/upper ceiling run, which isn't one for a person with the slightest touch of vertigo. To get this done, the temporary staircase had to be removed and a compact but tall scaffold hired in to allow access. A youngman board was run across from the landing to the scaffold stage so that the width of the area could be accessed. As the last of the plasterboard was going up, we packed in as many of those pesky offcuts as we possibly could as this was our last chance to dispose of this within the walls of the house. It looked like some random form of plasterboard modern art as it was going up. Clearly, you can see that the stairs have been removed. Also moved temporarily was the UFH manifold that's been sitting comfortably under the stairs, as we didn't want any damage to come to that whilst Ian the Plasterer was doing his thing. Here's a not very good shot of the boarded stairwell and a peek at the edge of the PB lifter putting the board onto the hallway ceiling. The stairs are now on the floor in the lounge. Whether they will return to their original position depends on how long the permanent staircase takes to arrive, which is unknown right now as I need to have a chat with a couple of people about a couple of things, but I should be ordering it early next week. In the meantime, here's the stairway to nowhere. Back to the plastering, things are looking very different now that it's all done and drying out. The building instantly feels more solid and less like a construction site. The utility room is all done now and I intend to get in there next week with Jeremy's trust paint sprayer and then emulsion. There isn't that much going in the way of units going into the utility - just 4 in total. It will house a fridge, freezer and washing machine, then the units will continue along the same wall and have a work surface running above them. I've deliberately kept it less full as it's useful to have some empty space for all the things that fill up dumping grounds voids that most households naturally have. This is the other end of the utility, going through to the garage. Lying on the utility floor there, you can see my Howdens primed MDF doors, which are destined for upstairs and one between the utility and the main house. I hope to get started on painting these soon. The doors for most of the downstairs are currently in production over in the Netherlands, due to arrive around the 5th April, and these will be fully finished so no need to paint or anything, just add hardware and hang. After some research and a little back and forth, it turns out that the Netherlands is a great place to go for over-height doors. This is because what we consider to be over-height is entirely standard to them and you can get pretty much any size up to 2300 with no bother at all. Very handy for those large doorways of mine downstairs. We've planned to have low level lights in the hallway for some time now and I've copied ones that can be put in flush with the plasterboard and then plastered in (thanks, Barney12!). It sounded like a good idea so I ordered them and they arrived a few days later. Cue panic on my part as they appeared enormous and were way deeper than I was expecting. I had to measure them several times and be convinced that they wouldn't come out of the wall behind them. As it was, only a screwdriver point did that. The lights weigh a tonne - they are moulded plaster of Paris and very odd looking things, but look good once they go in. Here's the side view of the light that needs to be lost in the cavity of the stud wall. What a whopper! And here they are once they've been plastered in. Finishing off on the plastering, here's a view of the bottom part of the scaffold tower that I've hired for the occasion. Even though the stairwell is plastered, I've kept the tower as I need to paint the stairwell and the prep for this means masking the long window, so I need the extra height for this. Ian the Plasterer was cursing the weather that day as the sun was beating in and that long window faces almost due south. He was bemoaning the fact that you could see every single ripple in the plasterboard and even the slightest imperfection stuck out like a sore thumb. Overly critical of his own work as he is, he was very relieved when it was pointed out to him that there will be a brise soleil in front of that window eventually, which will smooth out his ripples in a jiffy. The last bit of plastering is a slight change of plan in the bathroom. Originally, the slanted wall opposite the door was going to be tiled all the way to the top and the MVHR extract hidden with a false panel covered by a tile. After some discussion, it was decided that this would look horrible as the side walls are only going to be tiled part way up. We still needed a work around for where the wall protrudes to house the cistern for the wall mounted loo and decided that continuing the theme of niches in the bathroom, a large portrait-style one above the loo would look good. I suggested that the MVHR outlet could then come down via the 'ceiling' of the niche, but a further move was made and it will be on the right hand side of the niche wall, above the bath, and so be virtually invisible (once the vents are covered!). As ever, a sharp bit of plastering from Ian. Plenty more has been going on inside, but let's step outside for a breath of air as it was busy there, too. The next set of groundworks have started. These comprise the surface water and foul water drainage, the driveway between the garage and the lane and the hard standing to the side of the garage. In addition, the surface water will now all be diverted to the pond, which overcomes the potential issue of how to deal with this on our heavy clay site. I've swapped groundworkers for this stage of the works. Sadly, my previous groundworker came through with a ridiculously inflated quote for the drainage work and as I already had another firm waiting in the wings as I have to install a dropped curb between my drive and the lane, I decided to use them for all the work as they were far more reasonable. I'm afraid there are no thrilling photos of the groundworks as it looks very similar to how the site has looked since the onset of winter - wet and boggy, with a few trenches here and there. However, I'm delighted that the drainage works are progressing, albeit with being called off for a few days due to the awful storms we've been having, as it means that as soon as they are done we can press on with the cladding and get the building properly watertight. As well as the groundworks, the balustrades for the balconies started going in last week. The east balcony is completed and the supports and railings are in on the west with the glass to follow shortly. There was a problem with a couple of panels not being the right size so I'm waiting on those, then the guys will be back to finish the installation. When I first ordered the balustrade, I had a minor panic shortly afterwards. I had requested that all the metal work should be powder coated in RAL 7016 to match the windows and be close to the colour of the slate. The panic was due to my wondering whether I should have gone for brushed steel or something a bit brighter. Come the day, however, the darker shade of anthracite grey was the right choice as it blends seamlessly with the windows and slate cladding on the upper storey, so much so that standing in the lane, the railings disappear and only the glass is obvious. Phew! Here's the balustrade viewed from the balcony. The same from the top of a pile of wood chippings in what will be the garden: And, finally, from the lane. The building looks very austere at the moment, but once the stone cladding goes on, it will be transformed again. It's a bit chilly outside, so let's go back indoors. Work has been continuing on the kitchen and the laminate worktop is in situ now, as well as the sink. Photos on that to follow next week once the clamps are off. I had been pondering the support post for the overhang on the island worksurface, and how to overcome my dislike for most of the ready made options out there. I really didn't want a metal post as it would look incongruous against everything else in the kitchen and so in one of those late night flashes of inspiration that occasionally come along, I decided to ask Harry the Carpenter to clad some timber with the laminate splashback to make a post that matched the underside of the breakfast bar part of the island. Harry did his thing, and I'm pleased with the result. Much as with the balustrade against the slates, it largely disappears into the background of the recess under the walnut worktop. I've been busy sanding and painting and all things decorating. The snug has now had its 2 coats of vinyl emulsion and I'm working my way through the prep for painting my ready-primed MDF skirting and architrave. I hate prep. Tedious, boring, and there's no way to get out of it. However, it will be worth it once all the 'woodwork' is all white and pristine. One thing that has become apparent since I painted the snug is the difference a paint base makes. The neutral colour that I'm using everywhere is called Borrowash, from Brewer's Albany paint range. In the snug and low traffic areas, I'm using standard vinyl emulsion but for the hallway and lounge, I'm using durable vinyl. All in the same shade, just a different base. So what, you may ask. Well, here's the thing. They come out different colours. I chose the colour on the basis of the standard vinyl - this is how it appears in the colour chart and sample pots, and it's a warm grey/beige, more beige than grey. The durable version, however, is much cooler and more grey than beige. I painted the lounge first with the durable stuff and a little while back did one of the bedrooms with the standard emulsion. I commented at the time how the light made them appear to be different colours except, as I now know, they really are different. It's not a problem as I like them both and they aren't next to each other in the same room, but it's worth bearing in mind if you plan to use the same colour in different bases. Here's the snug all painted up, looking out to the hallway. And another of the same. Finally, as I started the blog with Elvis, it seems appropriate to finish it with a bit of a light show. Team Blackmore worked hard on the ceiling feature in the lounge but up until now, it's been uncertain just how well (or not) it would work out with lights. Patience isn't always a virtue and so some LED strip lights on the feature were temporarily rigged up. All I can say is that Team Blackmore had a smile on its face when it saw this. Ladies and gentlemen, may I present the ceiling lights. p.s. I was on site to do a clean up today whilst it was nice and quiet there. There had been plenty of cursing during the week as work on the en suite shower for the master bedroom finally started. Foul things were coming out of both ends of the plumber the day after his curry night and the recalcitrant shower wasn't doing much to improve his mood. I noticed this today, written on a piece of board in the base of the shower recess.1 point
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Hi We are coming towards the end of our selfbuild, probably 2.5 months left. Im currently also doing up our existing cottage to sell, hopefully they will be ready at the same time. Would it be of use or intrest to anyone if i give a run down of what we encountered from planning permission to the end result and best way to post if i do. Thanks John1 point
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@Dreadnaught mmm possibly it seems it may. Not able to get a definitive from HWMBO at mo sorry, he is bogged down in something. Will try and remind him during the week.1 point
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@jpinthehouse always nice to hear others stories........mine would be like war and peace won't go there!! Look forward to reading yours.1 point
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I was born the day after the coronation..... my parents carried me round on a sheet of plasterboard, Im told. ?1 point
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Afraid I'm with the majority on this one. Buy the board lifter anyway because it will make everything a lot easier, But you will need help on this and unless Debbie is deceptively strong. Ideally you need someone that can lift the board from the pile and put it on the lifter alone. Annoyingly your height means that with the extension you won't be able to load the lifter from the ground. So you will need to grab the board from a small scaffold to load it. Then climb back up to the top and screw it while the other person winds the lifter and adjusts it. There's no sugar coating it. This will not be fun. The lifter and scaffold will have to be constantly moved and there will be a lot of ladder work. Let me know when you plan to start and I'll make sure I'm busy ?1 point
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To be honest Ian Its safer two people on a tower than one with a boardlifter single handed on a slope They can tip Ive a boardlifter that I done use that you can borrow and I could call up and give you a lift to get your slope out of the way if you like We don’t want you to be the first forum death Gary1 point
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@Triassic thank you. It's Siberian Larch and I got it from Vincent Timber. It's a French product Sivalbp and Vincent are the sole supplier in UK. Mine was factory pre coated in new Age Gris It's a sacrificial coating which hopefully means I shouldn't get any uneven weathering. http://www.vincenttimber.co.uk/products/sivalbp/index.html It's very good quality cladding. The trim at ground level a custom fabricated cover in powder coated aluminium. Think a few have picked up on this trim now. It's very smart and easy to fit over the edge of the slab. Local fabricators did ours, they came out and measured up. I had it coated to match windows. Same company did the heads for over the windows.1 point
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Urinal. You clearly have to put a bucket under it though and empty down the loo afterwards1 point
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Get some help in. There's nothing unmanly about having an extra body to help. PBs are large and unwieldy, even with a lifter and if you want to get a good close fit with them, there's ni substitute for manual assistance.1 point
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We've got living space in our loft as well, with a lot of complaints from neighbours re the ridge height so we went through a lot of similar hassles balancing the build up of the levels to ridge height. Our house works with no complaints, but our ridge height still worked out at 8640, and IIRC this gives us around a 1.6m ridge corridor with head clearance above 1.9m but we also have a rear gable in my son's bedsit and the T head clearance makes the whole space workable. In my previous house we converted a barn extension into a split 1½ storey living area with the other half a kitchen and sleeping area above. The sleeping area was quite spacious (I used it as an office when I still worked), but it was a real PITA only having a ~30cm ridge corridor where I could walk without stooping -- and when we came to sell the property, the estate agents wouldn't classify it as a bedroom because of the head-height. So some points to consider: We had a rise from the road access to the house of ~0.7m. We did a lot of relevelling and removed ~400-500 tonnes of subsoil off site to allow us drop the ground level to road + 0.1m or FFL to road + 0.25m which gave us another 0.45m to play with relative to the street scene profiles. You might consider MMA options to do something similar. Our room heights are 2.4m (ground floor) and 2.3m (1st floor). The 2.3 works fine and doesn't feel limiting. You need to be very careful about ridge height if this is an issue locally. The last thing that you want is for planning enforcement to pick this up and put a stop order on you and force you to do major rework. This is a judgment call but have a look at other enforcement actions and precedent before deciding that an extra 250mm is a cheeky shoe-in. Having a gable in-roof to create a T ridge in the main loft room can significantly increase the effective head-height area. Having interior load bearing walls can allow you to replan your joist layouts and dramatically reduce joist depth. Do a very detailed profile of the roof build-up. In our case we have a passive-class warm roof: I beam ridge, with 300mm rafters and insulation, 25mm service cavity and 15mm pboard on the inside; 18mm sarking, counter battening and battening + slate on the outside -- all × 1.41 in height terms because of the 45% pitch. Add the air breathing ridge capping and this buildup is over 0.5m. If you have (dummy) gable chimneys then consider other options such as having a flattened ridge. The dilemma here is deciding how much to share with the LPA in trying to evaluate options, and this is something that we and your planning consultant will need to evaluate in the local context. We found pre-planning advice extremely useful in getting the LPA support, but other members here can tell nightmare stories.1 point
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@Sjk think your maths may be wrong ... floor depth will be 230mm total with 195+22+12.5 so you could do 2.3m ground and 2.2m first floor and still get 2.4m to the bottom of the ridge board in the upstairs. Issue would be the width and the pitch of the roof that will give you the problem areas - anything less than 1.6m height is only really good for storage.1 point
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You can play with this internally without really anyone noticing. We converted an existing building so the internal height was set. With the room sizes downstairs we wanted more height (room is 10 * 4m) then double height. We wanted to feel high, so we went to 2200mm on the French doors, and 2350 on the front doors. The height here is 2480. The upstairs lounge is 8 * 4 so we wanted to keep a decent height this is 2400. The bedrooms / bathrooms are all around 2340 or so. They all feel right, but I wouldn’t put a big room with a low ceiling. We also focused on taking out all downstands to give an illusion of height, and further to this deleted all the ceiling roses to again drive this illusion.1 point
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I have taken some advice on this from a planning consultant and I thought it may be worth sharing in case it helps others in future. Under the General Order 2015 on permitted development, Part 11 B1 (c) demolition which was permitted development but is included in a planning consent ceases to be permitted development. So once a consent including demolition is approved the right demolish withput consent is lost. I do not know why the law has been constructed this way, but that doesn't really matter as that is what it says. Randomiser.1 point
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You should be supplied with a full set of structural calcs from them. You should also have a spec saying what is included. Make sure the sole plate is completely level, walls are plumb, hangers fully nailed, floor fixed in accordance with spec, roof trusses / rafters mechanically fixed, rafter feet have correct overhang, fascia (if included) fitted at correct height, window / door / rooflight openings correct, thresholds cut out on completion of frame and whole work site left clean and tidy, as these are all things that some erection teams tend to "overlook".1 point