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A risky request...

All that needs is a soft lit glass display case over it to show it off!

I've never seen this topic before but you are looking to see if any other person see's any ambiquity. I do detailing all day, the images you supplied on page 1 and 2 of this topic are not clear at all, they have not hatched the enamel on the glass unit and they have not defined the clear glass area. To be honest, if that's the drawing from the supplier, it's actually p*** poor. I would have hatched the enamel which clearly defines this area, I would have dimensioned the enamel all round the glass unit, I would have dimensioned the clear glass area to avoid any confusion as well supply an installation detail on fixing. I think the onous is on the supplier, although blame may exist on both sides and the sizes signed off, the supplier are the "experts" in this area.

Returning to this thread - I have the new car. The car he is here: And the house door she fits: There's a snazzy underfloor storage method for that luggage cover that I have not yet got to grips with, and apparently some sort of divider net too. I need a couple of protective products for when I am carrying things: Protector for the top side of the rear bumber. Come sort of robust boot liner. Protection for the passenger seat when folded flat. And I need to give a little thought to a stronger 'variable boot floor', as the OEM item is limited to 75kg. A couple of battens sat underneath might do it, but I want a decent answer for the long term. Ferdinand

Original poster here. Thanks for all your replies, especially @lizzie's above! Armed with your all your advice I successfully negotiated for the light tubes that I am planning to be permitted in the design .

So it didn't set like concrete then ? ??

The system works! A ASHP feeds a PCM34 Sunamp that acts as a preheat for a PCM58 Sunamp and also a ufh buffer. The PCM58 has an electric immersion element to charged it ( to be solar PV at some point in future) Though the late addition of a back up pair of Willis units added some complications: @Nickfromwales can explain it in detail if anyone wants to know more.

Correct on all counts ..! Beads are blown in using a special machine and they did 15 cubic metres in less than 3 hours. The beads are blown in and coated in a film of glue that sets and keeps them from moving in the wall.

No reason not to other than cost and complexity. 25mm fits perfectly between standard roofing battens which were fitted to the walls at 400mm centres and the insulation cut to be a push fit. If you go to 50mm then you will need double the timber thickness plus the insulation will be more expensive.

Yes it’s about 40% increase on the equivalent value.

Buildhub ‘after hours’ sub-forum for self confessed gutter-monkeys ? Count me in !

The 25mm PIR helped with two things - the uValue is increased by a fair bit and it made the wiring really easy - we chased 3 back boxes in total. Cavity bead is blown from the inside after it’s watertight as you need the cavity closers in.

Bloody hell, you'd better not take 8 years putting that lot back together when the time comes!

All I will say is ask for referrals and visit existing clients if possible. We try our best to have site visits to customers, not all of our installations have went perfect and we will have clients attend those customers. Things go wrong when you try new teams/suppliers for example. It’s not always about how good the supplier or installer is, sometimes it’s about how good they are when things do go wrong. We are not all perfect and mistakes do happen. Expect to pay a deposit but not 100% at point of order and another before delivery - always have a retention.

Living the dream here tonight! Could only pull the carpet (if you can call it that) back so much: Sod's Law I missed doing a clear hole and hit the threshold. Still theres a gap down into the void: For some of this! Galvanised cover plate on and hoovered up! Back to the telly! Discussed with my mate and when it happens well just open the patio doors and have a "gut it" weekend. Ceilings down, walls to bare brick / block and floors, inc joists out. Got to sort the play room as a temporary lounge before that!

I believe the expansion vessel can go anywhere on the sealed loop that it's protecting. So could even be on a different floor. Some may have to be in the right orientation?

Google found.. https://www.french-property.com/news/money_france/heating_costs_2017/

Had a similar thing here. Sounded like a scratching herd of elephants above the services room ceiling (was likely a single mouse ?). Made a hole in said ceiling and chucked a bag of poison up there. All quiet on the Western Front now. Can't be dealing with dead things in traps so poison it is. No smell either thank God so it must have taken itself off to die somewhere else.

Forget Brexit fiasco ! . Dec 3rd where’s it at !

BU - Bu**ered up ba5*ard upstand? Oh that’s double BU ?

You need to be clear on the professional indemnity insurance position here as, if it all falls down, you need someone to pick up the tab.

I thought this was just the frame underneath, not enamel applied to the glass. If enamel was applied to the top surface of the glass I agree that it should have been shown on the plan view.

Our landscaping chap always refers to nails he finds around as "puncture seeds". Must have pulled hundreds off our plot with the aid of my home-made "magnet broom".

Yes it does but it does not show any of the enamelled glass, the shading of the lamination is not required here, what is needed is the positioning of the enamel and where the clear glass is located. The section drawing is a little clearer but lacks installation detail information and the enamel location being shown which should have help their client understand the drawing and detail better imho.

@Big Neil yes we used manifolds. As others have said easy to isolate individual circuits and no joins in pipes.

I am not sure what you mean @craig. The sections look fairly clear and they show upstands, the metal frame, the single pane inside the upstands, an air gap, and the larger laminated glass pane that fits right up to the edge of the frame. The plan view shows the laminated glass shaded and I think that had it also showed the frame underneath it may have caused confusion. Perhaps an additional plan from the underside would have been sensible. I would have liked some annotation on the drawing and some titles and I am not clear on what "B.U" stands for. I am not clear if this drawing was the extent of the information sent out.

Not in detail. Just follow the pipe and see where it connects obi wan.

I have done similar when someone bought the wrong boiler programmer. Simply cut a pcb track with a scalpel, and made an alternative soldered llink

@newhome And there’s me thinking you would give me grief for doing that.!!!! well the good news is that the stat works (not blown up with the board) and I have successfully modified it to be dry contact (no voltages) who,s a clever boy then ?

It goes back a long way to when almost all house wiring was clipped direct to walls, often painted or even papered over. Gradually things changed to bury cables in walls, which then created another set of regs on how deep they needed to be to be protected (the argument being that if you can't see a cable then it's more likely to get drilled through). Safe zones were developed for buried cable runs so that we all know (!) where to expect to find cables buried in walls, too. The only other guidance on where you run cables on the surface is really to do with cable protection from mechanical and heat damage and there's no clearly defined rule as such (AFAIK, there may be something in the 18th I've not seen yet). It's largely a judgement call by the installer as to whether a cable is OK to run on a surface, bearing in mind things like cable max operating temperature, the possibility of something knocking into the cable, etc.

Are you sure? Anhydrous sodium acetate boils at about that temperature but the trihydrate form boils at 122 °C. It's the trihydrate which has a melting point of 58 °C whereas that of the anhydrous is 324 °C so I assume the base material is more like the trihydrate form. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_acetate

Right, my new computherm stat has arrived, but, (am I getting OCD ?), it’s ugly, if it was in a cupboard I would not mind but it’s eye level in the hallway and I like the look of the Wunda stat (that blew up my ASHP main board). SO, I have taken the Wunda stat apart to see if I can make it a dry contact operation and I think I can, ( plus the computherm came with no instructions on fitting or programming???), and boy do I need instructions ?. Wish me luck.

No ; nothing to hide

Did you ask Andrews and Arnold? They were very helpful with getting me connected in the house I'm currently renting when BT had put a stop, for a couple of months, on all new broadband requests while the exchange was being upgraded.

Well you didn’t name them so none of us know who they are. You could ask a mod to hide the thread at least temporarily if you want?

Email sent

Didn’t that get screwed up?

Bit of a bugger as I've recently wired the whole of my workshop with plastic conduit. It's legal as it's only along the walls and was done under the 17th, but would need to be in metal from next year on, it seems. Can't say that I have a problem with that; I'd have used metal if I still had conduit die and bending sets to thread the ends and bend conduit (lent them to someone who never gave it back, years ago)..

The IP for the report you commissioned rests with the author, not the person that paid for it, unless there was a specific grant of rights to you, other than to use the report in support of your application. if the neighbour really has copied a report from the local authority website and submitted it with their application, then that would almost certainly be a breach of copyright, but not related to you, as the person commissioning the report, but with the report's author. This means that the author of the report could choose to pursue the person who has used their work without licence, but not you. Morally I think you have a strong case for telling both the local authority and the author of your report that it has been misused, but whether either choose to do anything about it is doubtful; few people seem to think that copyright misuse is really theft, even though it is, in principle. I had a similar situation in reverse. My neighbour over the other side of the lane had paid around £4,000 for a flood risk report, covering the stretch of stream and the bottom of the valley where our plot is. I was asked to produce a flood risk assessment with my application, and initially argued that they had one from my neighbour, submitted just a few weeks before. The LA said they weren't allowed to use the contents of a separate planning application with regard to ours, and requested that I get another flood risk report. I asked the company that had undertaken our neighbours flood risk assessment if they could provide me with one. Yes, they could, for another £4,000. I declined, on the basis that they had already done all the work and would have been charging me to print off another copy of an existing report with a different client name on it, but respected their right in law to do this. My solution was to request data from the EA and do my own flood risk assessment, quoting only EA derived data. Not hard, took me a day or two, and it was accepted by the LA without a single question.

521.10.202 I referred to above; Note 3 "precludes" (the word used) the use of non metallic cable clips as the sole means of support where cables are clipped direct. The inference is that it applies to the whole installation. WTF they don't say that in plain English is beyond me. There is an IET circular somewhere I have that says "whole installation". If I can find I'll scan and post it. EDIT: Sorry, yes, "non metallic" i.e. plastic trunking as the sole means of support is a no no now. EDIT: Saves me finding/scanning the paper copy: https://electrical.theiet.org/bs-7671/18th-edition-changes/

Lots of info at good old Paving Expert: http://www.pavingexpert.com/grano_01.htm

I'll get the popcorn while I wait, this could be fun,

What happened to @Onoff helical hydraulic sex toy shower head ? . Can’t we have photos of that ???

This is exactly what I do. ASHP directly to UFH, radiators & DHW (UVC with immersion top up)... I’ve also got Willis heaters now just in case of another issue with the ASHP or if it’s not man enough in the worst weather. So no storage, no SA, no PV. So significantly more basic system than most people on here, but cost me about £1k (plus UFH of about £250) in total so difficult to justify more expensive options as the payback would be significantly longer. My view is keep it simple, unless you enjoy it as a hobby - as that’s the only way of keeping the costs from being prohibitive.

We did a comparison between a number of systems and the Pex-A systems were not a patch on the JG or Hep2O systems for a number of reasons. The key ones were : - hot water (above 30c) pressure capability is significantly lower than established systems - warranty of 10/25 years depending on systems vs 50 years (from Wavin) - interconnects between new / old requiring specialist fittings - cost of installation / tooling and skills to install were more complex - ability to decouple or remake joints or change layouts was restricted with press or weld systems. - long term availability of spares / replacement parts were not locally available. - standard vs non standard pipe dimensions meant increased number of interconnects and increased price. The key reason for sticking with a 15/22/28 standard was that it was immediately available and did not require any specialist skills or tooling to install, along with a simple method to connect with existing installations or indtustry standard fittings. In terms of flow rates and restrictions, neither system (Pex-A or Hep2O) provide any significant restriction to flow as whilst Pex-A uses expanded pipe around a full bore fitting, the Hep2O sleeve is now stainless and does not impede water flow at all. There are also a whole host of issues around the actual design of the fittings and what happens if you apply lateral stress to them which are based on the material they are made from which makes them susceptible to low flex failure but that’s beyond this discussion I expect....

It's currently a typical Victorian/Edwardian house, where the kitchen extends into the garden, but not at the full house width, giving you a side return. We want to knock down the existing kitchen walls (rear wall, as side wall), and extend into the side return, and also further into the garden (there is currently a conservatory into the garden, but for the sake of understanding the plans, we can ignore that). Quicker and cheaper sounds great to me So you mean steels with a cross section of 254x146x43, and putting timber joists between them? That would be fine at the back of the extension, but we'd still need something big to support the existing first floor and roof (a 320kg steel sounds reasonable, I was concerned it would be more). I'm hoping we'll be ok with flat ceilings. The existing kitchen ceiling is around 3.15 / 3.2m high, and we're after a finished ceiling of 2.76m, so there should be room for the steel. Thank you for the help

As an update to this, I've been looking at ways to retain the switched boost functionality that we have at the moment, and add energy metering for both the PV diverted energy and the grid boost energy, so that I can get a feel for just how much grid energy we use. This has been prompted by the discussion in this thread: I already had a spare 4 module DIN enclosure ( less than £7 from eBay), so I've decided to replace the time switch in my set up with a DIN rail mounted 16 A time switch, plus two single module DIN rail energy meters. I'll post photos of the set up here, as soon as I've finished it. The idea is to have one energy meter recording the diverted PV total energy to the Sunamp and the other recording the grid boost energy to the Sunamp. I'm going to retain the separate boost enable/disable switch, as the neon indicator is a useful guide to show that the system is in boost mode. The 2 module wide time switch is one like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIN-Rail-Digital-LCD-Power-Programmable-Timer-AC-220V-16A-Time-Switch-RelayBI117/153187211217?epid=850258809&hash=item23aaab57d1:g:9iAAAOSwSflbopYN:rk:1:pf:1 The energy meters needed a bit of thought, as the LCD ones that I've used for other energy monitoring purposes would have the disadvantage of not being able to be read when not energised, which would be the case for a fair bit of the time. Instead I've opted to use 1 module wide ones like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-5-30-A-50Hz-Single-Phase-DIN-Rail-Type-Electric-Kilowatt-Hour-KWH-Meter-BI041/163042593097?epid=8019867926&hash=item25f6188949:g:YDIAAOSwCLVbvsIt:rk:1:pf:1 that have an electromechanical counter, so can be read at any time. It's a bit simplistic, and relies on my taking meter readings from time to time, but is pretty foolproof and should give a good indication as to just how much DHW energy we get from PV and how much comes from the grid. More details and photos to follow, once I've got it up and running.

You guys all need skylights - trust me . i think I’ve got some around here somewhere ....