Redoctober

Many thanks guys for an informative and humorous responses ? I shall cobble together the comments and send them onto my friend. Without knowing for sure, I suspect he hasn't "invested" too much in one, so maybe he is reaping the rewards of such a purchase. If I do get any further technical or specific details from him @joe90, I shall update the thread but don't go holding your breath. One thing is for sure mind, I shall be washing my hair should an "invite" arrive for a drinks party !!!???

Hello - Asking for a friend - no, seriously? I am. He has contacted me as he is becoming concerned about the high amount of electricity he seems to be using on a monthly basis. I have asked him for more details but at the moment he says he has an ASHP and a Hot Tub. Does anyone have any experiences at this stage of the two being run and resulting in high levels of energy usage? Last month he used 819kwh and already this month he has used 253kwh. There is only him and his wife at home!! Any thoughts would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

WOW - thankfully you said it was a personal view - There are thousands of self builders / amateurs /experts and no doubt reams of well documented research to suggest otherwise!! Just one question though - How would you tell the difference between a house built to your preferred spec and a house clad in stone / brick but a TF at its heart?

Hi @saveasteading One question I have - regardless of whether or not SEPA need to be contacted regarding the soakaway, do they not need to be contacted in order to "register" the treatment plant? The reason I say this is because when we moved in, having been signed off etc., our Council tax bill came through and it clearly showed that we were being charged for "waste water" services and the such like. When I enquired with the local council and informed them that I am "self contained" etc., they said yes not a problem but they would need to check with SEPA to see if I was registered with them. They did and I was, so a refund was payable and the council tax adjusted accordingly. Perhaps a phone call to SEPA may steer you in the right direction.

@Stones Bringing this thread up to date a touch, as we have finally had our "windbreak" - side awning installed. It was installed today some 8 weeks after the 8 week lead time we were given at the time of the order. As a result, we are unlikely to get much use out of it for what remains of this year but hey ho. The photos show it in place and I had tried to capture the "bellow" - the wind at the time was what I would describe as a gentle breeze.

Flemings. No complaints.?

Hi @Dave_madl and welcome @Thedreamer has provided a link to his blog which is well worth reading as it gives you an insight into one of your options mentioned. For completeness and an example of your other option mentioned, take a look at my blog - there are a number of similarities I suppose, but they do give you an insight into the two different approaches. I used a TF company and sourced many of the materials myself - basically project managing the build which was 100% trades and contractor driven with me "sweeping up " afterwards.?

It is my understanding that a Geo-technician would carry out the tests for you - they can provide details of the soil make up, which in turn will / could determine what type of foundations you require. They can also do percolation tests on the soil - [ although, this can be done by the individual ]. As for costs, well it can be dependent upon which area you are in - but to give you an idea I would say around the £1500 mark. There are lots of useful Blogs and threads on this forum. Spend some time trawling through them as well as hammering the internet - I also found reading various magazines useful, especially as I was starting from such a low base knowledge wise.

The right hand option - glazing with wide doors for me.?

I agree, although no expert, I would not be comfortable or confident that their work is going to improve beyond this standard as the project unfolds. As mentioned, there appears to be insufficient mortar between the blocks and as for the "rubble" used as back filling, I'm afraid it all points to a shoddy and cheap approach by the builder. Tell him so and agree to part ways.

Hi and welcome to the forum - you may get the answers you are looking for but that may depend on members experiences etc. That said, it is not surprising these management companies / solicitors etc are very twitchy when it comes to any external flammable / combustible materials, given recent events! Who's responsibility is the timber framework under the balcony - the apartment owner or the management company - is it considered part of the overall building structure - If there was to be an insurance claim for any reason involving the balcony, who would pick up the tab? I know from my personal experience the front door of our sons apartment was covered by their insurance - not his. As fro the surveys and the likely costs - no idea or advice other than to shop around and maybe consult other occupants - is their a Message group of sorts where this type of issue can be discussed. When was the last apartment sold? Maybe tap into the solicitors / estate agents involved with that to help steer you through your decision making. Whatever you choose, good luck.

Just caught up with this particular episode and I have to say I loved the place. For me, the interior design changed it from being a "sculpture," into a family home. Yes the figures involved are beyond most peoples scope BUT, here was a guy who COULD afford to do things and the project, more or less demanded the fixture and fittings they invested in. Imagine our horror if they had installed a Billy basic kitchen etc. I'm grateful that such a project had the right person behind it - Again so many people set out with grand intentions but unfortunately their budgets don't match their ambitions. Here was a guy who could deliver on all fronts. Fair play I say. That said, why on earth was there no shower room in the gym!!!

@SuperJohnG having looked at my paperwork from the TF cit appears company it appears they supplied and fitted the following - 195 x 25mm redwood fascias. 145 x 25mm redwood barge boards 9.5mm OSB eaves tilt boards 9.5mm exterior grade [plywood soffit boards 45 x 45mm soffit bearing timbers T&G lining boards to exposed soffit areas I hope all this helps and makes sense! ?

Sorry @SuperJohnG, I have no idea. I have checked my paperwork relating to the roofer but his quote just stated supply and fit "dry ridge system with bockends". Beyond that I have no idea!! ?

@SuperJohnG the set up in your photos appear to be just like the set up we have on our roof / dormers. Ours is a Scottish build and have had no issues with it at all.

It is all very well people suggesting areas which may be unfamiliar to you but at some point you are going to have to pay a physical visit. The above advice and approach is spot on. It is also very similar to what we undertook in our quest to secure a plot in the Borders. ?

We have multi-panels in our bathrooms but not set up in the manner you are enquiring about. That said, if it were me, having to choose between a horizontal H joint/lock running around the "middle" of the shower area and a 200mm [2cm] gap running along the top, I would be going for the gap at the top every time. I feel it would be aesthetically the better option and also the best option for peace of mind etc., as I would be very surprised if there was to be any water accessing the panels at that height, whereas with a horizontal H joint????????????

Hi @patp I bet you feel better getting that off your chest! ? Are you seeking kitchen manufacturer references or just seeking advice / guidance as to what path you go down? The issues you raise all come down to what suits you I suppose. To try and offer something, could you not set up a "makeshift" kitchen arrangement in the new place pending a final decision as opposed to being forced into one? It is clearly going to be a big investment regardless of whom you go with, so perhaps a couple of hundred quid on a makeshift set up would make economic sense. As for size of fridge/ freezer - all I would say is that we too are just a couple and I would say most weeks the fridge runs at a 60 - 70% capacity BUT it really comes good as soon as we have visitors / special days. I couldn't imagine having a smaller capacity fridge and then coming unstuck once the numbers within the house start to increase.

@Tim Willcocks - this is a fascinating build and I for one am pleased you gave it a "nudge" by your contribution. @Pord67 Any chance of an update? This is certainly one of the most interesting builds on the forum, so would love to hear how it is going [or isn't ☹️] ?

Hi - it seems you need to really tap into the internet and gain a much clearer picture of what the costs are when it comes to embarking on a self build project. For me the basics would start with the plot - how much is it likely to cost in order to get the services connected - Search sites such as @nod suggested or the local energy suppliers. Then what type of build material are you looking for - TF - ICF - SIPS - Block work etc - Then you need to consider the external finish - render - brick - stone - cladding? For a starter take a look at this site via this link - https://www.fleminghomes.co.uk/self-build-resources/cost-calculator/ There are other companies available, so I am not endorsing this company as such - it's just a pointer for you to start gaining a fuller understanding of what the costs are likely to be etc.

Could you not approach the land owner with an offer that is "conditional" upon you receiving all the information you require. Thereby effectively "ring fencing" the land until you are either ready to proceed or pull out depending upon your findings? In addition, if the plot is well sought after, you may wish to agree some sort of "deposit" to secure it during the research period?

WOW - do these plots have planning as well ? What about services? Would love to see your costings etc for a 3 bed detached house to be built for around the £120k mark.

mmm, interesting one - Yew is a slow grower and requires plenty of water in the early years. Laurel has a faster growing rate but I'm not sure it will satisfy your 500 mm thickness requirement without too much maintenance and /or at the cost of it being "see through" in places. Closer knit hedges with a fast growing rate which can be trimmed may include Leylandii but they require a lot of maintenance to keep under control. Take a look at some native hedging such as Hornbeam, Beech or even Hawthorn. These can be purchased at various stages of growth and offer interest all year round. That said, they might not satisfy all your requirements. Sounds like your hedging issues are causing you to choose two options from a hoped for 3 - similar to the most overriding issue self builders have - Time/Budget/Quality - good luck.

? ha, I won't tell Mrs W that! ??

Given that they are for cosmetic purposes, I would say it all adds to the character of the beam. We too have a couple of oak beams which are simply cosmetic and we chose to have them "shaved" / "have the edges rounded off" in places, to reduce the "squareness" of their appearance, if that makes sense. A couple of images might help in understanding what it is I am trying to say!