Marvin

Well @LSB, stepping back from the situation, the depth to me seems odd. As I understand it, foundations are used to ensure the weight of the building is dispersed over a ground surface area capable of supporting the structure plus a factor of safety. So larger surfaced than usual foundations usually indicate either a heavier building or dodgy ground or a point load - say a pad foundation for a steel. Deeper foundations point to poor ground or tree roots. The only time I've known 2.4m deep underpinning was because the roots from a mature oak tree 10 meters away were undermining the foundations of a house. If there isn't anything indicating tree root potential then it has to be poor ground and the only way to tell how far to go down is to dig a trial hole or bore down to see where the good ground starts. Other things of note are sites with steep sloping ground or near other properties or your going for a basement. This is the limit of my knowledge so I leave it to others to point out my failings. You need to get to the bottom of this. (Sorry I couldn't resist) All is not lost! Hang in there. Best of luck Marvin.

If you stand under the inlet valve and you have as much hair as me, then yes in about 50 seconds.

That makes me a nobody. ?

Don't know whether to laugh or cry!

Remember reading 40 years ago in Mad (the one with Alfred E Neuman) about changes to come: People in the future having to wear head covers on the beach and put gallons of sun cream on to protect them from the sun. Who's laughing now? Back on topic... I think that the calculations for heat pumps will be superseded by calculations for cooling pumps as we go forward. Even with limited glazing in our house (no south facing) the peak solar gain almost equals the peak demand for heating! Never did like being cold...

A nice little storey on cause and effect (or is it the other way round?) is Joseph Conrad's short story Typhoon....

Put a tissue on the window board and leave over night to see if it's running off the window...

Its a mathematics thing! You don't learn it you can't use it! The two most important subjects to be learnt to a good level: Communication and mathematics. And the other one I recommend is Yard Sticks - the ability to stand back and view the probable outcome.

Yes I thought as much

Well this calculation is getting worse by the minute! ???

Also not sure of basin, bath waste pipes or where the water supply pipes are or any heating pipes, so lots to consider.

Yes but cut carefully and packed out between the ridges on the panel side. You would have to choose a thin cat flap, and this assumes the door is not open to the elements, otherwise you will need to seal all around the outside edge using something like frame sealant. Avoid cutting the bottom thick part of the door, or the door structure will be weakened. Good luck M

This is what I am installing but a 5.12kWp roof mounted self installed system which will cost about 3k. 1kW immersion with adjustable CT clamp on PV 240v output cable and the same for EV charging set at 2kW after. Also the higher PV power produced in the summer will be used for cooling via the ASHP air to water coils in MVHR system. We will see what happens. M

This indicates to me that the floor in the shower room was taken up to change the design and this will have to be done again to reverse the layout.

This is posted during the design and installation phase during the winter 2021/2022. The cooling side results are not expected to be known until Summer 2022. As the air passes through the water coil it changes temperature depending on the coil water temperature. If the coil is going to be used for heating only it can be used without a condensate trap. However as this is going to be used for cooling as well I have constructed a drain in the bottom. Coil with lid off. Air flow from top of picture to bottom. Drain in bottom side of coil where air would be coldest. This is a picture looking down into the bottom side of the coil. I have added water to test that it runs away which it does. Because the coil is on the push side of the system ( inlet to rooms ) the condensate pipe requires a set of bends to form a sort of trap that the air would not escape from but water would. The air pressure in my system is very low as an MVHR pushes in and pulls out air in the building at the same time, so quite balanced.

Any pictures? Sometimes the fiber washers crack. Try undoing the heater a couple of turns and wrap a whole roll of PTFE on the exposed thread and then do it back up. Plumbers mate and gutter sealant no good. Clean these all off.

Nothing wrong with 150mm in one go. If you have 2 layers it's thought a good thing to stagger the joints, a bit like 2 layers of plasterboard or loft insulation.

Better prey not.

If you can take some photos it would really help. How big is the ceiling? The plasterboard dot and dabbed on to the existing ceiling will definitely require screws. All edges of the new plasterboard on the ceiling will require fixing with screws through the existing plasterboard and into the ceiling joists. What size are the small pieces. All joints where the edges of plasterboard meet will need taping. You can sometimes find the joists by looking at the floor above. Once you have the centre of one at both ends, you can usually measure and find the others as thy are generally set out a regular width apart. Good luck Marvin

+1. Didn't know they existed until I read all this. About to replace the old one so now going for the heat pump version!!! Thank you everyone!

Foam in the gap. Leave to dry. Remove excess. on The foam will shrink slowly unless covered so now is the time to put sealant on top! The skill using the foam is to foam enough to join the window to the walls but not run it too much into the cavity. I try to run about 25mm on the sides and between the top and bottom of the frame fill any gaps. Seal all 8 edges. Don't forget to seal under the cill where it meets the external wall!

MVHR drying is ok but a condensing dryer is a backup I would recomend. We usually use MVHR drying in the utility room as its quite warm in there. Its a small room so the air is replaced quite quickly. We have a Beko which works ok. The water is collected in a holder in the bottom, although most condensing dryers can be plumbed into the waste to save emptying them all the time.

@dpmillerI will look into this. Thanks.

From experience may I suggest that you consider the installation and running cost of what ever you temporarily install. Also which system will give you the most parts pluggable in to the perminant system of the future. We were lucky to have a LPG boiler and radiator system and have converted it to ASHP. However we have had to increase the amount of heat emitters because of the lower temp of the ASHP..... Good luck Marvin

Thanks for this info. In order to stop the flow reducing would not a bypass valve overcome this issue?