Marvin

Hi @nod. I can quite catogorically say there is no issue with either water circulation or air in the radiiator. I confirm the towel rail rad is full of water from the top to the bottom. The hot water enters the rad on one side and exits on the other but only heats up about half way. I know you think it's a air issue but it is not.

Nope radiator completely bled.

Nope. Full of water bottom half fully functional as a radiator.

My Towel radiators are definitely full of water. They are quite hot up to about half way up. Why?

Ok, insulated how? Loft insulation - how thick? Cavity wall insulation? Floor insulation - how thick? Do you have trickle vents in the windows. What is the approximate floor area (upstairs and downstairs) in square meters. What emitters (radiators or underfloor heating?) are you thinking of using? A lot of people who contribute on build hub have masses of experience so its good to listen to it all. @TW9 has one of the answers which would save you space, but its as my brother says, its not if, but how much. Good luck M

Not if the beading is big no. As usual @ProDave really points out the big picture..

Our 80-20 twist up against skirting sealed to the floor for air tightness. No concerns from fitters.

This is what I am working towards...

Hi Adam We completely renovated our bungalow in 2018, but with no mains gas ran an LPG bottled gas boiler. We know exactly how much we used and pretty much when as the bottles needed changing. We oversized our radiators at the time because we were not sure how good our insulation and airtightness would be. We have about 100 square meters of floor and used about 35kWh per m2 for heating and we estimate about 2 to 3 kWh a day hot water. I have a 206 litre vented hot water tank, with a salamander CT50XTRA pump (1.5 bar) giving middle power water to two showers in the bungalow. often sold with) unvented cylinders. The ASHP uses a coil in the cylinder so it would not effect your hot water pressure. 22mm copper all the way up with as few bends as possible , and the hot pipe insulated all the way. Having now run the ASHP for about a month, I would say that there is a lot of understanding required to know how to get the best out of a system. We have not finished playing with the emitters (radiators and coils) yet as were running it through coils in the MVHR as well. I believe the first two most important things when considering ASHPs are the thermal resistance and airtightness of the building and correct calculation of the heat loss. Once you have this then you can move on. Good luck Marvin

Not really having much information to go on when installing an ASHP on my flat roof, we decided to go ahead anyway. Questions that arose were about things like will it blow over, can the warm roof take the weight, can the warm roof take all the vibration, will it wear away the EDPM, is the condensation OK to go into the soakaway, is there much maintenance required, how heavy is the ASHP, can we get it up there, can we get the power up there, will the control cables reach where we want them, can we drill through the roof to get the pipes into the utility room without going through any services, can we waterproof the water and cable pipes to the EDPM, can the pipes be insulated. Well we couldn't find definitive answers to all these questions but we decided to do it anyway. So far, if we were to install it again, I would add to the list auto vents to both the flow and return pipes just before the ASHP as one has not been enough, and fitting later is a pain in the ... M.

Hi Mike. 1. This raises lots of questions as to the suitability of your property to have an ASHP and or separate hot water. Whilst none of our business it might be good to share some details. There are so many alternatives for secondary hot water that without knowing things like what you want it to do - showers? Baths? 8 people? and so on that you could end up putting the wrong thing in. 2. Sure, you can use ASHP for heating only. 3. No. Good luck Marvin

Thanks everyone. I already have a good coat of insulation. I think that I will use some of the offcut edpm from the flat roof and cable ties as I may need access later. Thanks @Russell griffiths Never heard of self amalgamating tape before. Looked it up - definetly going play with some of that! Oh another day, and another thing I didn't know I didn't know. ?

Hi Has anybody any recommendations for an external sticky tape to fix to further lagging to external ASHP pipes? the only ones I have used doesn't "stick like the aforementioned" but is "the aforementioned" In full sun in summer. Thanks Marvin

The coils have been positioned as near to the room inlet valves as practical so the heating/cooling from the coil is not effected by the loft temperature too much. I expect to get results from the heating side in a week or so. Still messing about in the loft. M

Ok @ProDaveI'll let you know in May.

Agree totally @epsilonGreedy. However as part of a group of various electric producers it should be included. Also with several tidal installations around our coast line, it would be a more balanced supply because, as I'm sure you know, the tide doesn't rise at the same time of the day all around our coast.

Well it would except for the mains

At least there looking at tidal power generation, the most constant and reliable "Green Energy" available. Every time it goes dark here my lights go out...

kW hour now 3.

I set up a 0.5 watt led night light that is on when the bright main lights in the windowless en-suite are off, as a movement sensor used a lot more power, and she didn't want to click a switch at night (also the light is a nice dim yellowy orange so it disturbs the sleeping patterns less).

I'm sure we will get over it but we just had our first kW of PV. ???

With that I usually run silicone along where the 2 parts touch and screw up in the cill recess. On mine I filled the cill under the window with insulation....

I'm surprised more people don't.

Permission received from my DNO to install and connect to the grid 6kW PVs! (Distribution Network Operator = Scottish and Southern Electricity = SSE) All I have to do is accept SSE's quotation for the "Non-Contestable Works" and pay the fee. (there are no additional works required).For my £360.00 including Vat SSE will complete a site inspection. The checking of the network system has already been completed and there is no additional work to be carried out. For your information; Although I applied stating I would use a CT clamp to limit the PV power to Main Grid, SSE will not take the CT clamp restriction into account and have taken the inverter limit as the worst case scenario. @Wil was right. ???? The inverter maximum wattage is 6kW. the panels will supply up to 5.12kW Time line: Application submitted in full 29th September 2020, quotation received 26th November 2020, so about 2 months at present. IF we had other works, the SSE would need to do, they estimate they would have got back to me about the works in about 6 months after paying the quote. Good luck with your project. Marvin