Marvin

Thanks for this.The buffer section was very interesting! I am going to insulate a bit more the buffer terminals and my hot water tank.

Nobody wants it to happen, you hope it don't happen, and when it happens, it happens, I've had it happen, I am not happy when it happens. Thank goodness you'd popped out and you weren't out out.??? Progress can be painful, but at least its progress.

4 core cable between all smoke alarms= live, nutral, earth, switch live

@Ahmiccc My understanding of your problem is a bit like a foot pump used to blow up a car tyre: It will achieve the pressure but not all in one go! So like the foot pump the mains water will supply over time and the pump would slowly build up pressure. However when you let go of the pressure by opening a tap it will slowly drop. I think the pressure is fine at 2 Bar its the rate the water is flowing along the pipe (just like a small foot pump for a car tyre) In order to over come this in my humble opinion I would recommend a storage tank. The real test is the flow rate. Go to the fastest running tap with a bucket run the tap whilst timing, until full. measure the contents and divide the result by the minutes it took to fill this will tell you HOW FAST the water is in litres per minute. A typical shower needs between 12 and 16 litres per minute. Compare the result. If you put the big pump on the mains, sure it will suck the water but only to a maximum of one bar negative pressure otherwise a vacuum will form in the pipe. I hope this helps. Sorry if you know all this... Marvin

Hang on!! Perhaps you should think about putting the PRV AFTER the pump as suggested in the manual: unless your happy for your pipework to handle 6bar?

We don't have a big information system on our ASHP. I decided just to add electric meters as a way of seeing what is going on. Our home is just about 100m2 floor plan bungalow. Decided to run the water coils in the MVHR ducts just to draw out any air. Left them on by mistake until we realised we were too hot but all the radiators were off! After this I fiddled with the ASHP heating temperature. Decided to set the ASHP heating water temp to 31C last evening for the hell of it. Last night's outside temperature was about 8 degrees. Got up this morning it was 20.5 in the bungalow. Running an ASHP system is very different from a gas boiler! Is it ok to run the ASHP at 31C? Presently I am finishing off the insulation in the loft and working on finishing all the pipe and duct insulation. Once done I am going to record the results of the MVHR efficiency. Once this is done I am going to record the effect the coils are having on the inlet air temperature. Good luck with your project M

+1 however the volume of the grey water compared with the volume of rain water off the property are 2 completely different volumes and then you need to ask yourself if the cost value makes sense, and whilst I am pro grey water use I don't think running off the odd m3 when it's tipping down is going to make any significant difference to the flow down the drain. Example: Say 100m2 roof 25mm rain = 25m3.. We also use ours for the garden watering....

Absolutely the right thing to do if you want to keep an eye on the costs. It's at this stage that Cost Engineering comes into its own. You know the structure. (Ground works and services is another thing altogether) I would not give the QS an indication as to what you are hoping for. If its too much change the design BEFORE you start work. Also have a list of cheaper alternatives up your sleeve for the finishes in case. Study's have shown that if by the time you have paid out for 10% of the work if you have spent 10% more than budget, unless you change the attitude, when you get to the end the costs will continue at that same sort of rate. M

In my humble opinion it's worth checking info on A J McCormack paving expert site before you start. look up "sandstone paving", "patio drainage" and so on for tips

Hi @Bitpipe and @LA3222 , and poor old @ToughButterCup having worked over the years, as self employed builder all the way to multimillion pound property, in roles from quoting, as an estimator, planner, cost engineer, site manager, surveyor and clients project manager, form pre-tender estimates through to final accounts I can safely say that every build is different. I know of no "One size fits all" answer. There are lots and lots of variables, far too many to list. For the avoidance of doubt I am not mocking anyone. Its neigh on bloody impossible to estimate the final cost. Having been paid to do just that day in day out for a few years .........

Could it be there using them by heating with PV electricity during the day?

Hi Mike. Don't think most people would want bird poo water for anything but flushing the loo. Certainly not for showering and clothes washing uses about 150 litres a week depending on family. and then there's the cost of filtering if you want to improve the bacterial content.... As my brother says, its not if but how much. Yes recycling is good but when you do the maths of using 70 litres a day grey water for toilets and, say 100m2 of roof catching say 25mm of rain in one day, this gives you 2500 litres which is over 70 days of water. I could go on about getting lots of rain some weeks and none other weeks but basically it will only really save the additional use of mains water and not really change the rainwater volume when raining heavily because you would need it empty every time it rained.

Not knowing all the circumstances and having been involved is some attenuation works the only thing I can come up with is suggestions: One job we produced a "dry" attenuation pond which a bit like the tank reduces the flow. Another we made a massive store under an entire tennis court. Another we delayed the runoff from roofs with sedum. It really depends on the volumes involved. What are the ground conditions? So do I understand correctly that you are in the middle of putting 2 new properties on a site. Up hill is always worse than downhill as you rely on pumps so I would ask what is down hill. assuming your not at the bottom of the hill... My brother-in-law is involved in roads and services designs including housing estates, motorways and so on, and he may know someone. What part of the world are you in?

Pictures. Here we go..... particulary visible on corners.. Next is the top... Sort of rusty spots... Back grill where each bar crosses: Going to have fun trying to paint that..

Yes I knew that and I think this is low grade.We live about 800 meters from the sea and I think that's effecting it, but it's only taken 6 months...

No it's stainless steel ?

Hi Has anyone had experience painting stainless steel? I have some external stainless steel that's begining to corrode and I wanted to protect it from further damage. Does anyone have any advice on how to do this / which products to use? Thanks M

So @nod was correct with the action required: Bleed the rad (Well remove water from radiator). But not quite the reason IMHO. @PeterW was correct about the lack of circulation but not the reason. IMHO (the towel rails ALWAYS circulated to the top in the last 2 years). And @dpmiller had the most way out thought which I think makes @dpmiller a great solutionist! But my conclusion are: 1. The towel rails don't circulate as well as the radiators. 2. The antifreeze effects this problem even worse (did I mention I added it yesterday?) 3. I was too mean to want to drain loads out the radiator thereby diluting the antifreeze mix when refilling, so my plan of isolating the tower rails, emptying into a bucket, and refilling worked.

You are far closer to the truth than you know. I fixed the small one: Time to catch the water.... notice the colour.... : and the results: Wait! What's this?: The water in the top of the radiator was clear, but the water running below is rich with antifreeze...

This is the other one: If no one else has had this problem then I must be wrong? Yes it full to the top. Yes the lower half is running freely and hot.

I believe that the solution is to lock off both sides of the radiator, drain the contents from the bottom and pour it back in the top. If I am right surely someone with a heat pump has had to do this before. Hi @dpmiller But you would think it was a possibility.. . No. It worked perfectly fine for 2 years. Both of the towel rails.

The radiator has been running for 12 hours in its present condition. It is the first time in my life I have seen this happen. I can only guess the reason and no one has come up with (possibly) the right answer yet. You have to think of something completely different. I am waiting for someone who has had this happen to respond so no-one thinks I'm mad.

Hi @ToughButterCup No. And I confirm that there is no air in the top of the radiator.

Hi @joe90. Thanks but I understood exactly what @nod was saying and usually he would be right. Having been corgi registered in my time I would know all about air locks.... There is no air lock.

One of the aformentioned. and yes I am supposed to be decorating the room for Christmas ?