Marvin

Following 1 I try to detail the info so people can check... The bungalow ran on LPG bottled gas for 3 years heating and hot water so I know what was used: I have used the worst 2 years: I am using the conversion rate of one kg of LPG gas giving about 14.091kW hours In 2 years we used about 13277kW of LPG energy for heating and hot water. ( about 10 bottles of 47kg ) If we deduct a modest 2kW for hot water each day ( total 1460kW) that leaves about 11,817 for the 2 years. In summary about 6000kW per year so 60kW per year per square metre of floor was what we were achieving. The target temperature in the house is 21 degrees C generally with 10m2 of rooms at 23C. The MVHR runs at about 6watts an hour or 52kW a year. I have a plug in meter on it. so lets say £20 a year power. It saves masses of heat.

The holistic set I am installing is: ASHP main parts: : Air to water Cool Energy inverTech Air Source Heat Pump CE-iVT9 4.3kW-9.5kW Cool Energy 60L Stainless Buffer Tank CE-B60 MVHR main parts: Domus HRX2-D Heat recovery System with "summer bypass" 125mm and 150mm rigid circular ducting and Domus duct insulation. Electricity Generation main parts: PV Sofar Solar Grid Tied Inverter 6KTLM-G2 16 Longi 320W Mono Solar Panels CT clamp to limit power generation into grid. HOT Water system: 206 litre indirect hot water cylinder. 1kW by 27 inch 240 volt immersion heater Pump to showers Heating system: Panel radiators and two CWH 160-3 VentMatika Circular duct water heaters in the MVHR ducting. Cooling system: Two CWH 160-3 VentMatika Circular duct water heaters in the MVHR ducting. EV charging point: 13 amp plug-in point direct to ring main 13amp plug-in point controlled by PV production via CT clamp. Controls: Dampers to the MVHR. water flow sensors CT clamps

I try to detail the info so people can check... The bungalow ran on LPG bottled gas for 3 years heating and hot water so I know what was used: I have used the worst 2 years: I am using the conversion rate of one kg of LPG gas giving about 14.091kW hours In 2 years we used about 13277kW of LPG energy for heating and hot water. ( about 10 bottles of 47kg ) If we deduct a modest 2kW for hot water each day ( total 1460kW) that leaves about 11,817 for the 2 years. In summary about 6000kW per year so 60kW per year per square metre of floor was what we were achieving. The target temperature in the house is 21 degrees C generally with 10m2 of rooms at 23C. The MVHR runs at about 6watts an hour or 52kW a year. I have a plug in meter on it. so lets say £20 a year power. It saves masses of heat.

Air tightness was followed to a reasonable standard: All external walls sealed with plastic before the electric first fix Plasterboard ceiling to almost floor and then siliconed / masticed to floor. No open fireplaces, cat flaps or tricklevent.

The bungalow has an average of 180mm of PIR under the suspended floor. The cavity walls have an average of 140mm PIR in the walls The loft has an average of 300mm of fluffy. Theflat roof has 200mm PIR. The doors and windows are the latest double glazing.

The bungalow was built in the 1970's and extensively renovated in the last 4 years. It has external block walls and timber suspended floor, timber frame including all internal walls and concrete tiled roof running east/west at a rise of 23 degrees. Having never heard of, or gained knowledge from, buildhub I renovated and extended the bungalow as best as I knew. The garage was converted and has a flat roof. Fortunately the work included insulation, air tightness and a MVHR unit. We ended up with about a 100m2 bungalow.

Confused between zoning and zones, so sorry @Olf I can think of no further reasoning, and you will have to wait for an expert. Perhaps just needing 3 separate runs to rads, ufh and uvc.

Another choice perhaps.. https://coolenergyshop.com/products/cool-energy-60l-stainless-buffer-tank-ce-b60

Is this a help for you: https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg411.pdf You seem to have responsibilities if this information is correct north of the border. Good luck.

I too have looked at this and we don't have anything like enough land, or money to buy batteries, to make this work. Interestingly our system, over a year, will produce enough power for all our demands, just not at the time when we need it....

I’m starting to think that’s the way forward… can you expand on the suggestion of a more efficient system? As @TonyT suggested any opinion would be related to the thermal resistance and airtightness of the house so details of that a must really.... We live in bungalow with no mains gas, which had night storage heaters, but renovated with better airtightness, insulation, MVHR and an LPG boiler but have recently removed the boiler and have recently installed an air to water ASHP, PV on the way, and an electric car charging point. We have kept the indirect cylinder and are looking to use the hot water immersion when we have excessive PV power, or into the EV.

I don't know lots about UFH, however different areas of a house require different amounts of heat to reach the same temperature so zoning sounds sensible. Extension and original house may have different thermal resistance so different amount of heat required to reach the same temperature. Definetly upstairs will be warmer because the upstairs floor is warm.

+1 This the route I'm taking

Well, the limit to the expansion vessel pressure drop is the volume of the red expansion tank. Another possibility is the pressure relief valve is letting some water out. Good luck.

Definetly before changing anything, now is the time to consider the options. As a guess, a direct hot water tank or a sunamp, is not really that much more spread over a few years. How was the old HW tank heated? Electric?

+1 Concentric if possible seems the best to me....

It's very difficult to jump in when you don't know all the history ... In my humble opinion.... Item 0: if radiators cold at top and hot at bottom means top full of air if radiators cold at bottom and hot at top heat coming out of radiator quicker than the hot water is replacing the cold water. Possibly a pump issue but water flow not travelling fast enough. Item 1: don't know about Zilmets but all in loft? I would insulate the pipes as thick as possible and all other items I could. Item 2: our 215 litre indirect tank can loose the same amount of temp in a day, but we are working on insulating it more. We have it in our bungalow in the utility room. Item 3: the expansion vessel is not leaking otherwise there would be a puddle on the floor. You have a leak or the air in the system is still draining out. Last item: Sorry to hear of the positioning. The further away the better. Good luck Marvin

Surely the three pin round socket for the museum?

Do you have a manual with it? In the manual it talks about an interface on the internal unit: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.daikin.co.uk/content/dam/document-library/operation-manuals/heat/air-to-water-heat-pump-low-temperature/EHVH-CBV,%20EHBH-CBV_4PEN449973-1-2016-06_Operation%20manual_English.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwibpe-DoYT0AhV1QkEAHahuDuMQFnoECCwQAQ&usg=AOvVaw15it6mvGhTdBC9MrbQtSqM

Hi @richo106 We renovated and extended our bungalow. We have no mains gas. Originally the bungalow had night storage heaters. We insulated with 200 pir in the floor, 150 in the walls and 400mm fluffy in the loft, improved the air tightness, added a LPG boiler and a MVHR. Since then we have revised our plans and have replaced the LPG with an ASHP and are adding PV for the electric vehicle and general power. After reflecting on the systems available for us the best synergy for comfort and efficency is the ASHP, MVHR, PV and EV combo. I know others will be different.. Assuming you are not thinking of moving for a long time: In my humble opinion you pay for the building works once, you pay for the heating/cooling costs every year: Consider the thermal resistance of the bungalow very carefully. Lots of people here have learnt the hard way including me. Best of luck Marvin. P.S. and had I thought (known) about it I would have installed a SunAmp.

I am still hoping that someone will Contact me regarding my request as above.

Good question. Well if it's a small problem access is required. If it's a big problem and it has to come down then it would either have to be dismantled or down the same way it went up which was via a scaffold, even though its only on a ground floor roof.

Is that a quote from Yes Prime Minister?

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Concrete blocks? Galvanised bolts if you can get the length required.