ETC

“Architecht has sugested a Topo While the site is 3 acres it’s very flat.” 3 acre flat site - I wouldn’t get a topological survey done unless you’re building a shed load of houses or roads or if there are services above and below that you need to accurately plot.

I wouldn’t touch D&B with a barge pole - especially not for a small domestic project. The advantage of D&B is having a single organisation deliver your project and it can be quicker to deliver than a standard procurement method. However the quality of the build and cost could be compromised and changes can be expensive. As for architects who underestimate costs and exclude their own and other fees - avoid them like the plague - get someone you trust and go through the design, all costs, the specifications and schedules with a very fine tooth comb. Treat your build like your shopping - make a list of everything you need including fees and VAT and put costs against them. Then check them again.

600mm or more of a drop needs guarding. Drops more than 600mm and more than 3000mm from a building don’t need guarding. Check with your BCO.

Check with BC to see if they have approved the drawings and specification. I’d go with blocks and mortar. A timber frame will need an engineer or specialist to design the frame and BC will more than likely require a structural certificate for the design and possibly the as-built frame and perhaps the roof trusses. They will more than likely need you to submit additional detail in relation to the timber frame. Check with them. I don’t see the problem moving the boiler. You’ll need a Gas Safe engineer to move it for you and you’ll need a CO alarm and somewhere to drain the condensate.

Have the drawings and speciation document received BC approval? The reason I ask is that some of the notes in relation to sound to the intermediate floor may need looked at again. What changes do you want to make? The plan form looks like it’s trying to be as cost effective as possible. The documents uploaded seem comprehensive enough and it looks like a simple build - your architect seems to have designed you something that appears to be inexpensive to build. You’ll probably need a SHS post at the front LHS corner and the rear wall panel and opening might need a couple of SHS posts in it. I also don’t see any smoke or heat alarms or an emergency egress window from the new bedroom although the specification has the EEW notes in it. I presume the store is for storing your bins? Where’s your boiler?

…………Or just go to your local Building Control Department who will more than likely have records of foundations of neighbouring houses that you can access as a starting point……

Take a look at the Lead Sheet Association details.

Cavity trays plus flashing required at the roof/wall junction. Keystone lintel and post system to support the roof. Yes a Keystone bay window lintel.

Easier to do once the roof is on and windows in. No mucking about trying to keep the DPM clean and tear free plus it’s easier to connect the DPC in the walls to the DPM in the floor.

If this is a new build check your SAP for the thicknesses of roof insulation to be used. Your SAP assessor will have used certain thicknesses of insulation to calculate the TER and DER. However for 175mm deep joists I would normally expect to see 125mm Kingspan between the rafters giving a 50mm air gap behind the insulation and anything from 32.2mm to 82.5mm Kingspan insulated plasterboard across the face of the rafters giving U-Values ranging from 0.16Wm2K to 0.11Wm2K. 0.18W/m2K is required by TBF1 for extensions. Don’t forget that you can always batten down the rafters to achieve a larger rafter depth if your design calls for insulation that is thicker than the rafters.

Cavity trays plus flashing required at the roof/wall junction. Keystone lintel and post system to support the roof.

Put the DPM above the floor slab.

Looks lovely but I’d have preferred it painted red - a deep blood red not the post box red - to make it stand out more. Looks a bit too deferential for my taste.

Personally I feel the original elevations are a bit too twee - very 80’s looking and the revised elevations will look dated and be a nightmare to maintain in a couple of years. Personally I’d steer well away from the timber cladding and would take a closer look at the form of the house so that the plan generated the elevations rather than sticking a wracking great pitched roof over the left hand side just to get the roofs to work. It really does look like an 80’s elevation with some “trendy” bits plugged in to try and give it a “contemporary” look making the composition quite fussy with no real base concept - like a pick’n’mix house. Take the elevations back to first principles - use the plan to generate them, use simple geometry for the fenestration, make the entrance “human” scale and use a materials palette that is timeless, contemporary and maintainable.

Simple block work cavity wall with the outer leaf possibly thickened to take any additional load. Speak to Visqueen about a site specific tanking/DPM/DPC detail.

Your BCO will be able to check their records to see what was built. The the records should be in the BCO archive. The BCO will more than likely ask you to excavate your new trenches lower than the existing house foundation and the type of foundation should be determined by the ground conditions. If the BCO thinks you need anything other than a standard strip foundation you will be asked to get a SE to look at the foundation design.

It’s too dangerous. Check out BS 5588-1.

New toilet?

Delays in getting Building Control (Plan) Approval will largely depend on the quality of the information submitted by your agent. Insufficient information, contradictory information and non-compliance with the Building Regulations and Technical Booklets on any submitted application will mean the application is rejected and additional information requested from your agent. Don't blame your BCO. Get the information correct the first time around. And although we are working from home we’re not sunbathing - it’s too hot!

“Look for a recommended Architectural technician (Not Architect) that works closely with a structural engineer.” @Scobbyrex….Why not an architect?…….

Very, very cheap......you’ll probably pay more for a new tv for the new house......

Since I posted this I got in touch with a CDM advisor. Site visit, a chat and set me straight on my legal obligations. It's a little complicated and grey, as under CDM regs I'm considered designer/ contractor, but under employment and workplace law, I'm not considered an employer. But best to cover all bases. I've a few kew bits of paperwork and procedures to have in place, and a load of posters. Hardest part is getting guys to wear their feckin hard hats!!! Her view is that HSE primarily want to help you run a safe site, and their first approach is to advise and improve. Hi...clicked your link....how does the following relate: