ETC

Sounds like a licence to print money to me.....

Any better?

What has the RICS got to do with architects fees?.....

“Our architect produced a great design but way over the original budget. To minimise cost keep it simple.. Avoid roof complications like dormer window or 1.5 storey houses with rooms in the roof. Stick to a 2 storey house with simple roof. Even making the house L shape adds a bit although how much is debatable. Do you really need a chimney? A working chimney? Avoid anything needing steel beams or posts if possible. (eg windows that wrap around the corner of a house). Architects tend to like charging a fixed % of the final build cost. Sometimes as much as 10%. So if you splurge on a kitchen just remember to add 10% for your architect who may not have had anything to do with the kitchen. Better still find a builder you trust so you dont need an architect involved during construction other than perhaps a few hours to sort out design problems that might come up.” I agree with most of this. Keep the design simple. Rectangle house plan with short floor spans and a trussed rafter roof with a slate roof. No steelwork (SE required), no great expanses of glass, no masonry chimneys (stove if required with Selkirk flue), no steps in internal floor level (tanking required), no basements and render painted external walls. Don’t skimp on the insulation - go above and beyond the requirements. If you want to go with a timber frame talk to a timber frame supplier - they will do whatever you need and will design the wall panels and roof trusses based on the design you present to them. You need to balance the cost and erection speed of a timber frame with a traditional masonry build. Both have advantages and disadvantages which only you can decide upon. In relation to architects fees - many do base this on a percentage cost of the build. Many others will be happy to agree a fixed cost fee based on providing a particular service to you. You are the only person to decide if you are getting value for money but you may wish to shop around. Many architects will be more than happy to have a chat with you about what you need, what they can provide and what the cost is likely to be. My own suggestion would be to agree a fixed price fee - not one based on a (possibly fluctuating) build cost - for their services. The fee should include all expenses (excluding statutory fees) and a list of your requirements - a shopping list of what you want. An architect should provide you with a written agreement of what you require including the fee to be charged. Fees are a very emotive topic for many architects and can mean a certain amount of crystal ball gazing in relation to the amount of work they will have to do.

“Unfortunately I don't think this is the case. A good architect will design you a house that looks nice and gets planning permission. That is their main skillset. Some know about designing for low running costs but not many. Very few seem to consider buildability/build costs in their designs. Massive spans, lots of glass, bespoke features you cannot buy off the shelf etc. They also will not liven the house and could have a very different idea how to layout a house relative to how you will use. Don't be afraid to tell them what you are after and if they won't do that then look elsewhere.” I’m very sorry - but I do not agree. A good architect will always design the home that you want not what they want. Their skill set is taking your requirements and turning it into a workable solution within a budget set by you. Unfortunately this may not always be the case but you as the client should always drive the solution - you are after all paying his or her fees. I do agree that If an architect fails to come up with what you want you should tell him/her and revisit the design solution or look elsewhere.

In all seriousness - a good architect will save you money in the long run by designing you a home that is cost effective to build, run and maintain.

“Sack architect, they will spend all your contingency, and more.” Lol.

Attic trusses?

I would have thought a 4” duct through the external cavity wall into the room with the stove would be fine depending on the size of the stove. Just need to work out the ventilation requirement for the stove and ensure the duct gives sufficient air. If a 4” duct isn’t big enough go for a 6” duct. Need to fit a non-adjustable vent to both sides though.

Other way around........DPC (in the external wall) to be 150mm above FGL.....same difference........

It currently doesn’t look like you could ventilate the flat roof anyway so doing a warm roof is the answer. Insulation above the flat roof joists - no need to ventilate the flat roof. As the previous poster said take a couple of rows of the bottom of the existing roof and take the flat roof covering up the slope of the roof minimum 150mm vertically - standard flat roof detail. Don’t forget to install tile vents to the existing roof at low level.

Just make sure the DPM and all DPCs are continuous. Difficult to do if the (internal wall) DPC is at slab level.

Not necessarily. Depends if you are an area where radon protection is required which I’m sure your architect has checked out. You may wish to check out the Accredited Construction Details. Looking at the detail - it looks fine. As other posters have pointed out the DPM can either go above or below the slab (below if there is a risk of the hardcore being contaminated) as long as the DPM is overlapped and continuous with all wall DPCs. Having said that I would normally expect to see a DPM above the slab/below the floor insulation overlapped and continuous with all wall DPCs, perimeter insulation and a VCL above the floor insulation. PS - Have faith in your architect. If in doubt ask him/her and raise your concerns. You are after all the client and paying fees.

Perimeter insulation?

Radon?

What about a VCL?

Renders look great......house.....hmmmmm.....?

Can we now take the engineer and the architect off the rack.....??

I agree wholeheartedly. Quoting the contract every time something goes wrong doesn’t necessarily lead to a good working relationship and you are the only one who can weigh up the pros and cons of accepting or not accepting works that you aren’t happy with. Setting aside the bravado about firing the builder you may wish to sit down with him and voice your concerns about his communication with you. I also agree with many sentiments on here in relation to the delay in getting drawings from the engineer to the builder in good time. In my opinion the time scale was too long and although I understand the contractor’s frustration I cannot in all honesty condone him proceeding with the works without your express consent. As I am sure you are fully aware there are contractual avenues open to him in relation to delays and these routes need not necessarily be contentious and can be dealt with quickly and amicably by both parties. In any case good luck with the build. ETC. I’ve been many things but never a PM.

Lol.....good one Big Jimbo....close but no cigar.....

Let’s face it - there are good builders and not so good builders and there are good architects and not so good architects and it can be pot luck who you get and what level and type of service or build you get. It can be frustrating for all concerned especially a lay client who relies on the advice and guidance from the professionals he/she employs and from the builder who does the work. I have met some very good contractors and I have met some not so good contractors and in most if not all instances differences on site were resolved amicably. It’s always the best way but if this isn’t possible it’s always better to start afresh.

Not great T......should’ve been a couple hour’s work and an emailed PDF....doesn’t excuse the contractor from ignoring the clients request to delay starting the works without a site meeting though....if I was the contractor I’d have claimed for the delay....

No Jimbo - I’m not a PM - I work for a living and have had plenty of experience on sites and dealing with both contractors and design teams..... I’ve also met plenty of armchair “experts” who wouldn’t know one end of a construction project from another....

If a builder can’t follow simple drawings he shouldn’t be doing the job....plus he could always lift the phone and ask the engineer for a detail.....it’s not rocket science....and yes I’d get rid of any builder who can’t take simple instructions or who can’t read a drawing....if he doesn’t have the patience to wait and discuss a detail with a client or an engineer or an architect I’d determine the contract in a flash.....