ProDave

A quick google found this, which will fit in 9 metres, so your 12 metres will be plenty. https://www.suffolk.gov.uk/assets/suffolk.gov.uk/Business/Planning and Design Advice/DC Standard Drawings/DM05_A-SCC SCD.pdf

The trouble with rock, is transport costs. When we were down south we wanted some for a garden project. Could not find any locally, and refused to pay garden centre prices. We solved it when visiting relatives in Northumberland where it was abundant, and brought back as much as I thought the car could carry, distributed around all the footwells etc to spread the weight rather than pile it all in the boot.

I knew I should not have read this thread. DIY Beer can UFH spreader plates anyone?

Ever thought of buying your own digger?

I know it's a big house. easily twice the size of mine so of the order of 300 square metres floor area. 2.7 metre ceilings downstairs, and vaulted ceilings to most bedrooms.

Just to add to this. A nearby self builder (who's house I am wiring at the moment) is going to great pains to make it airtight but is not fitting mvhr. He has a central extract system for wet rooms and trickle vents in the windows. Today he tells me he has had the air tightness test done today. The figure is 1.7 I don't know what units that is other than it's not ACH. He has been told that is "too good" so me must now introduce positive input ventilation as well now. I kept telling him to fit an mvhr unit, now he will have mechanical ventilation, but without the benefit of the heat recovery.

No It will syphon over the top bit.

The Barriar does not have the reinforcing webbing that the Intello has, but it still seems pretty strong. Another plus for the Barriair is that it has a built in double sided air tightness tape along the length of a roll, so that saves a lot of air tightness tape. I only found out about the Barriar from another local self builder who is using it. I got it from Jewson's but it has to be ordered.

Re the electric. You need to get a quote from your DNO to move the supply out of the house, to an outside meter box of some sort (which you must provide). The actual connection must be done by your DNO but you can do some of the work, e.g trenching. You can either take the view this outside meter box is temporary, then pay again to have the supply moved into the new house. Or do as several on here have done, make the outside meter box a permanent thing and when the house is build just run a SWA submain into the house from there. Once you have the meter in a box, any electrician will connect a supply to the static caravan and a site socket or two, both of which must be connected to a TT earth, not the DNO's earth. Likewise your water. when you have located the pipe, all you need is a plumber to divert it to a standpipe and into the caravan. If you find an old rusty steel pipe, now is the time to replace it with mdpe back to the stopcock. P.S where in South Oxfordshire? that is my old stomping ground.

I was wondering if anyone would mention those diagonals. That is me just over engineering things as usual. This is a timber framed house with wood fibre cladding so no blockwork shell. So all the strength is in the timber frame. The structrtal engineer specified two layers of OSB on the skin of the frame to give it sufficient racking strength, which I have done. But I had a load of 6 by 1 left over that had been temporary bracing during the build, so I thought no harm in having a bit more bracing to the frame that will be hidden in the service void.

I have found the problem. It's a know issue with some sites miss reading the "user agent" of the browser. There's a fairly easy fix which I will try when I am next on the other PC.

Thanks all. There must be something strange about PaleMoon identifying itself as a mobile device, clearly I need to delve deeper into the settings. Fine on this PC on either chromium or firefox

I nave added a new entry in my blog at the usual place http://www.willowburn.net detailing the airtighness membrane. Look for the recent entry called "Airtightness detail" This has actually been sitting for several weeks now but lack of internet meant I could not post it sooner. P.S can others confirm the blog is displaying properly. I find on my desktop, that is currently running Pale Moon browser, it serves up what looks to be the mobile version of the blog, and I can't find out why. My other computers display it properly.

I mentioned in another post, there is a Graff unit where I have been working this week, with the pump housed in the garage. My observation was the pump was running 5 minutes on, 10 minutes off.

They all have some form or anchor kit available. I chose the Conder as I though (for DIY install at least) it had the easiest anchoring system, a ring built into the bottom of the unit, and you fill the bottom of the hole with concrete to encompass that ring.

When I was looking, the Vortex, Conder and Biopure were the three that stood way above the others in terms of effluent quality, all having very similar numbers. So you are definitely on the right lines. Before making a final decision, check the figures for the Graff units. These seem to be becoming increasingly popular so I would look to see how they compare.

Regardless of the number of wires, only 2 terminals are in use, so that's just another single pole switch.

So where is a sink on the prohibited list? Try getting a quote from a man with a van on shiply.com

Hi and welcome. If you find my blog interesting, please read JSHarris's blog and many others as well. there is a wealth of information and ideas in all of them. +1 to roughly where are you, that might help with ideas for plots.

I was just thinking demolish the inner skin to floor level, not slab level, and build up from there? I have seen a 145 timber frame built up from 100mm block foundations but am sure that was just a mistake.

The giveaway is you don't hear other parts of the UK referring to a "building warrant" And the trouble with a building warrant, is you must build what the plans show. If you want to change the design e.g for insulated cavity block that will need re submitted drawings. Didn't whoever did the drawings address what to do and how to detail it at the transition where the original wall stops?

To meet building regs these days, you will need a 145mm filled timber frame, AND some sheet insulation over the inside of the frame before plasterboard. Personally I would take down the inner concrete block skin and fit a timber frame from floor level inside. P.S Do I take it you are another from Scotland?

That must be a biggie if a 13t machine won't shift it. Even my little 3t machine lifted this one (that's a 2ft bucket to give some scale)

Does the house you want share the same footprint as the one already approved? If so I would demolish the old, install the foundations (to lock in PP) then apply for the new design.

My thoughts entirely. If you wanted a house with a large flat garden, why would you buy one that has a burn running across the garden with the ground rising steeply the other side? I agree it's a lovely feature to have and I would not want to hide it. What's not to like?