ProDave

Sounds good to me.

Just use the small size wago's as good as anything. It's not like you will want to unplug it often is it? If trying to remove that, the tip is a really hot soldering iron as you have to heat the mass of the board and the plated through hole. Heat the solder that's there and one leg at a time pull the component out. Only then use a solder sucker or solder wick to clean the hole out. If it's lead free solder, a little drop of 60/40 applied will make it flow a lot better. If you can't desolder it without messing up the board, just snip the wires as close to the board as you can. Solder the new wires onto the board and there should still be enough on the sensor to solder onto.

The DHT11 is a 4 pin digital sensor but only 3 pins are used.. The datasheet is here http://www.micropik.com/PDF/dht11.pdf If you can desolder it and rewire it in the exhaust duct, I can't see why it won't work. The data sheet mentions cable lengths up to and over 20 metres so I can't see why it would not work.

A quick scan of that lot reveals a manual barely adequate ro connect it an use it, even less so for understanding the technicalities of how it works or how to do anything fancy with it. When using the controller you have, it appears to use the terminals HF, LF and MF (high medium and low fan?) to select the speed. There is also mention of a manual 3 speed control using the terminals L(1) M(1) and H(1) * Are these in fact the same terminals,. just referred to by a different name to put us off the scent? * (I am not entirely sure what's in the brackets, you zoom in and the resolution of the image is too poor to be certain) I think it's going to be a case of stick with the controller you have, or forget it (at least as control goes, perhaps just keep it as a display) and configure your own controller. I doubt you will ever need 3 speeds. you will need a trickle speed and a boost speed. Once you know which one is going to be your boost speed then a changeover relay contact will switch speed for you. you then need either a boost timer or your own humidistat system to command the relay.

Do you have an electronic copy of the manual you can upload? I have to say it seems bonkers to put the humidistat in the controller. I have always heard of the humidistat going in the extract duct so it senses the humidity of the air it is extracting. If you can find a manual we can look at, we might be able to suggest something.

25 metre run to the kitchen worries me. Old house, the kitchen was a long way from the tank, and part of the run in 22mm. Result it took an age for the hot water to arrive. I was constantly being told off for rinsing stuff in cold water, and my reply was I didn't want the time, or wasted hot water, just to purge the long run of pipe to get the tiny bit of hot I needed. I would seriously see if you can shorten that. Otherwise, seriously, I would buy a length of 10mm pipe and try it to see if it gives enough flow at a kitchen tap over that distance. Our new house I have changed the layout a bit specifically to get the HW tank closer to the kitchen, where is is (or should be!) used most often. I recall this argument with my father who was an old school plumber. When he plumbed my first house, he insisted on a long run of 22mm to the bath, and the basin fed from that. I argued for a separate 10 or 15mm for the basin, but he just could not see the smaller volume of water in the pipe would make it quicker to deliver hot water.

At the top you can get a proper angle piece to form a drip bead. Was that window £75 including the glass?

Print that reply and archive it. Just in case the issue comes up later.

It's a perception thing. We are having UFH in the two bathrooms. Not because I think it's needed, but because SWMBO thinks it's needed. In my case it's only short runs using left over pipe from the last house, so all it is going to cost is some spreader plates and a small manifold.

I will be interested in your reasoning. The 18mm OSB seems pointless. It's no good as a final floor for carpet, use 18mm chipboard floor panels for that, and it's pointless for a wooden floor as you can just use a structural floor straight onto the battens instead to minimise build up thickness.

Is this where your bins live in the week, or where they go for bin emptying day? At the moment our bins are next to the raised deck step into the static 'van. We find we like that arrangement as it places then right next to the kitchen door and places the lids low down in relation to the floor level of the entrance platt, at about handrail level. We are almost certainly going to replicate that when we move into the house.

If it's a 9" solid brick wall, then I would think the bond would make it pretty impossible to just remove the inner layer. What about external wall insulation?

The main thing that jumped out at me was things like nhbc are NOT about improving standards. And those that have had problems have had great difficulty getting nhbc or others to pay to fix them. Thankfully we don't need (or want) a mortgage, and don't intend to sell within 10 years, so have saved ourselves the cost of such a white elephant.

You need to send a PM to one of the administrators and ask them, and they will set it up for you @TerryE @PeterW or @recoveringacademic

Suggest the battens on their side with reduced insulation. space them 400mm apart and then you can use 18mm chipboard as the final floor straight onto the battens, then carpet.Total thickness 54mm plus carpet plus air gap. If fitting a wooden floor, find an engineered floor that can span 400mm and fit that direct to the battens. forget any OSB underlay sheet.

When he's finished the electric wacker plate.

Your house is on stilts on a slope. Put a meter box underneath round the back somewhere where it's hardly visible. Just build an extra bit of wall underneath to put it in. Agree that SSE will fit an internal meter. The house I am wiring at the moment has the new meter inside in the garage, and the one I did at the back end of last year had it inside in the plant room

If taking a SINGLE phase supply out of a 3 phase board, you use a single pole MCB. I would not advise using a 3 pole mcb and only using 1 pole. Maximum of 80A for your 16mm cable. Have fun finding the right mcb for it. CEF have a 63A single pole https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4553645-63a-single-pole-10ka-type-b-mcb?q=Lewden+single+pole That might be the largest you can get for that board, which is fine as long as your maximum demand does not exceed 63A

There's a French one you can buy in kit form.

What spec are you looking at? basic double glazed or good triple glazed? When I was looking for good windows I was pleasantly surprised to find Rationel were the cheapest, and almost the best, so it was an easy decision. A lot of folk up here seem to find the same thing. But the question above needs answering. Do you have free choice of any window supplier, or just the few your TF company uses? As to longevity, I chose aluminium clad timber, as painting windows every few years is not on my list of retirement hobbies.

I couldn't find a drawing that showed it well, so pictures and a description is better. It's a cut roof framed on site, hung from a bog Kurto ridge beam, using 195 by 45mm timbers for the rafters. That then got clad with 100mm wood fibre board acting as a sarking board (a BR requirement in Scotland) and then a non tenting breathable membrane, counter battens then tile battens then tiles. Later It was insulated from the inside using Frametherm 35 fitted from below, then a layer of OSB Finally it will get covered in airtight membrane, battens to form a service void, then plasterboard. That's what I am working on at the moment. Originally I was going to use blown in insulation, until I found out the cost. I then worked out Earthwool Frametherm 35 had the same insulation U value, was less than half the price, and was a DIY job rather than having to get someone in to blow in the insulation, so I could do it at my own pace bit by bit. Regarding timber floors. What is it you don't like. Mine are 300mm JJI I beams with 300mm of Frametherm 35 in them. They will have UFH before the final flooring. My builder did his best to convince me to have a sold floor but it would have been a lot of material to import and pay for to build up the ground, and it would have forced me to make decisions on the exact layout of some rooms to lay in the drainage at that stage, again I preferred to leave those decisions until I was ready, something you have the luxury of being able to do with a timber floor.

As you own the land, why any cost at all? Or is it a case of you "should" pay for it, so you will be paying yourself £500? Our old house has a deed of Servitude (Scottish name for the same thing) to have to soakaway under an adjacent farmers field. I don't recall any money changing hands for that, just some solicitor time.

There is always conventional strip foundations and an insulated timber floor, like we have. Re insulation types and decrement delay. We have a timber vaulted warm roof covered in 100mm wood fibre board, and then 200mm of Earthwoll between the rafters. I have been working today right up in the top of the vaulted roof on the mezanine floor. The sun has been shining on it all day. It was not overheating up there at all, and my IR thermometer could not detect any difference in the internal temperature of the part of the roof compared to any other part of the structure. In fact the only solar gain I could detect was the considerable warming of the floor where the sun was shining on it through the windows.

Not me personally, but my plumber friend who has just built his own house, had an 11KV single phase overhead line re routed and buried.They buried the section between 3 poles and routed it around the outside of his plot. I don't know the exact cost but it was in the region of £10K, and the cost was shared between the buyer and the vendor of the plot. They did all the digging and laying of ducts to get the cost down to that. DNO here is SSE. There is another potential plot on our road but it not only has 11KV overhead lines, it has the pole mounted transformer that feeds half the street. Rumour has it, the cost to get that moved would be in the region of £50K, making the land effectively worthless.

This is written into the local policy up here. There is a general presumption against building in the hinterland around towns. the exeptions are: It is an infill plot between existing houses. It is in an established development or group of houses It is garden ground to an existing house. So it's clearly written into the local planning policy here that you can reasonably expect to get PP to build a new house in an existing garden. P.S our plot got permission because it met both of the first 2 tests.