ProDave

Strictly speaking you should have applied for temporary PP for the caravan at the same time as doing the full PP for the house. They usually insert a clause that the 'van must be removed when the house is completed. Up here they didn't start charging us council tax for the 'van until we actually moved in. It was sat there nearly 2 years empty before that. We want to keep the 'van as a workshop and studio once the house is complete. I argued that with the planners at the planning application stage, pointing out to them that on the day of completion I could remove the 'van from site, then immediately put an identical one back in the identical position and it would be a garden outbuilding under permitted development. They accepted that argument so modified the condition to habitational use of the 'van will cease when the house is completed. If we have any issued with council tax on it after the house is finished I will be arguing that it's no longer habitable (as the PP forbids it) and it's just a garden outbuilding and not subject to council tax.

Change the sign to Firewood £5 I'll bet it then mysteriously disappears.

Like many here I bought my own Kwikstage. I bought a job lot on auction on ebay from a private seller completing a self build. I then had to hire a 7.5 ton flat bed and make a 600 mile round trip to collect it on a weekend hire. After the main build, I sold half of it, and got back just over half what it cost me to buy even including the truck hire and fuel cost. The rest I intend to keep so I have enough to scaffold one wall at a time for maintenance. It was some time between buying it and using it and I found some planks had gone rotten (poor storage) but I managed to buy some more from a local hire company. I prefer Kwikstage to cuplock, I think it's easier to erect short handed. The way cuplock works, when you undo a "cup" it loosens all the fittings at that layer, so needs more hands to get an initial stage erected. If you are really lucky there is a little galvanised kwikstage about but it's rare. It really was a godsend not being stuck with someone elses timescale and not having a weekly hire cost to worry about. Mine was up for well over a year, imagine the hire cost of that?. And when you need to alter it you don't feel naughty like you might if it was hired. Plenty of dealers selling packaged kits on ebay so I don't understand what your problem was.

That does look bonkers and would leave the poor thing trying to deliver water at 55 degrees for a lot of the winter here. Once you have set your chosen (straight line?) compensation curve is it remembered for good (i.e if you can't buy a controller could you borrow one just to set it up then return it?_

The tiles are all fixes width with interlocking tiles. There is about 1 or 2mm "play" in the interlocking joint, so over the width of a typical roof you cam get a bit of adjustment. Half width tiles are also available to get you closer. But you wont get much movement at one joint. The tiles should by current standards be hailed at the top and clipped at the bottom, but in years gone by it was common practice not to nail them.

Not my bid. But before I do bid, what do thee units normally retail for?

The tile is almost certainly nailed down and there won't be that much movement in a nail hole. Also if you could move it, you would be parting the interlocking joint to the next tile. I echo the suggestions above to use aluminium which I am sure would slip between the tile and fascia.

I have never understood the need for weather compensation. Presumably this is done with a temperature sensor built into the unit? If it were an accessible sensor then I would be inclined to remove it and replace it with something fixed / adjustable as a n easy way to set the flow temperature.

Do you need the command unit? Is the 6KW the electrical input rating, or the heat output rating?

Do you have particularly short runs of duct? My shortest inlet duct is about 6 mertres and I cannot hear the fan noise even if I get on a stepladder and put my ear to the terminal.

Only just starting to play with ours. It's been running now since yesterday afternoon. At the moment with no terminals fitted, just the bare ceiling "plenum" units. No silencer fitted yet and really the only noise is from the mvhr unit itself. Even on boost there's not much noise to speak of from the terminals, just the noise from the unit in the plant room. There's no door on the plant room yes so whether it would be audible in the adjacent bedroom is unknown. I wonder how much difference fitting the teminals make? anything that restricts the flow and causes turbulance can create noise. My thinking is to start with all the terminals almost fully open and work from there to try and ballance the system with as little obstruction to airflow as possible.

Well I have not found the manual, but I have been doing some experimenting, which might help others with this version of the Lossnay mvhr units: The unmarked right hand terminal of TM3 activates the summer bypass mode. The DIP switch has different functions to that described in the LGH version manual. So far I have discovered SW1 is the same test mode.and SW5-8 do the same fan speed fine tuning that Dip Switch bank 2 does on the LGH version. Not yet worked out what switches 2-4 do. I also found this table about the unit on a website where someone was advertising one. This information is not in the manual so worth knowing. Ventilation mode Lossnay Bypass Fan speed 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 Power Consumption W 225 125 57 19 228 126 57 19 Air volume m3/h 468 360 252 144 468 360 252 144 l/s 130 100 70 40 130 100 70 40 Ext static pressure Pa 124 73 36 12 124 73 36 12 Heat exchange efficiency % 75.5 79.5 84 88 Enthalpy exchange Heating % 68 72.5 77.5 82 efficiency Cooling % 65 70 75 81 Sound Level dB 36 33.5 29 23 37 34.5 30 24 (sorry about the poor formatting) I will have to investigate what these heating and cooling modes are all about and what that means in that table?

This is my controller pcb the TM2 and TM3 connectors are at the bottom of the board and have a slightly different function to the LGH version. Also m board has only one DIP switch with different functions to the LGH version.

I am trying to find the installation / operating manual for my Lossnay MVHR unit model KAR-50RSDC I have the manual already for the LGH-50RSDC which seems easy to find and download, but it is different, with a different type of controller PCB. The issue I am having is I cannot manually select summer bypass mode. My unit has two inputs called "heat" and "cool" (which the connection diagram says refer to bypass condition select) and it does not matter which I select, the bypass mode does not turn on. I have just finished the ducting and giving the unit a basic operational check and frustrated I can't operate the bypass mode. Anyone have the manual for the KAR unit or have one working please?

A lot of tv's store a different set of brightness, colour, contrast etc settings for each input, so just adjust the settings to get the freesat picture correct, and I'll bet it does not affect the freeview picture settings.

I tried a UK supplier, Tree Craft who are very close to use. Very disappointed that their ex vat and ex delivery price was higher than Rational's price inclusive of vat and delivery. Don't rule out the foreign suppliers, get several quotes.

If the aerial is low down, try moving it horizontally to a different location to find the sweet spot, it can make a huge difference. I use a masthead amplifier, primarily to boost the signal before it passes down quite a long cable, then a distribution amplifier to feed multiple points. Definitely consider freesat as well, it slightly expands your choice of channels but is much more robust in bad weather.

Impedance only becomes an issue in regards to voltage drop over it's length, which in the case of an inverter actually means voltage RISE The impedance at the supply point will be so low that in practical purposes very little volt drop or rise will occur, but add a significant length of cable and you will vet volt drop (rise) The issue for an inverter is when the voltage that it sees approaches it's maximum limit. It will either throttle back the generation or shut down completely. This is exacerbated if your supply voltage is high to start with. Don't for one moment be led to believe we work on a 230V supply in the UK. Most places it is still 240V and 245V is pretty normal here. The limit for the inverter is 253V so here we only have 8V of "volt drop" to play with. This is the volt drop on the ac side I am talking about. Long runs of dc cable from the panels to the inverter won't result in tripping or power limiting, just a bit of wasted power in the cables.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I am sure your knowledge will be most welcome.

They had 100 blokes on site for 9 days, = 900 man days of work. Allowing for weekends and other work, I bet you have not spent 900 man days on the job yet. At least that's the answer I have for "that question"

I think a lot of thought went into the layout and design of the house to suit their needs and I really liked it. Yes incredible people to take on the challenges they have, they deserve to be rewarded.

I don't normally watch this program, but last night it caught my attention as they were doing their first new build. In 9 days. Slightly cheated as the 9 days did not include demolition of the old bungalow and preparing the foundations. But with 100 or so builders on site, they went from bare foundations to completed 160 sq Metre timber framed bungalow complete and decorated ready to move into in 9 days. They even fitted MVHR with a fancy air quality monitoring system to control the air flow rates. One thing that struck me was the size of the treatment plant they fitted. It was branded Kingspan / Karglester. Do Kingspan put their name of everything now? They said the hole it went in was 3 metres square and 6 metres deep?

Personally I would hang onto it in the short term until you are absolutely sure the new life abroad is right for you and she is a "keeper" If it has gained permission now, even if it lapses, it would be very unusual for it not to get permission again unless there is a drastic change in the local policy.

Our house, 2 houses back was a bit similar, with the whole garden on a bank a few feet higher than the road (actually a very good example of a sunken road) What we found was a 5ft high garden fence was perfect. It completely screened the garden, and us to anyone walking or driving along the road looking up, but was low enough if we walked up to it, we could see over and look down at the road and whoever was there. It won't solve the overlooking window issue but would give the privacy you want from the road.

The Sun amp was featured on the STV news this evening. They did a very good job of making it look silly and a gimick without even telling you what it was, an efficient heat store. They featured a "low energy house" and showed this magic box that can save you money, then compared it to the chemistry of a phase change hand warmer. Had I not known what it was, I would be none the wiser, and would not be wanting to find out more. A dreadful bit of journalism and I hope the MD of sun amp cringed when he saw it.