ProDave

I was going to ask how do you insert the glass? Surely you have to insert the glass as you assemble the stairs? The newel posts won't now pull apart to get the glass in, and the slot does not go all the way to the top of the post to allow the glass to simply drop in. You have left the bottom newel post off for that reason but what about the rest?

My guess is there is a boost switch wired in somewhere but rather unhelpfully they have not labelled it. Search doe a switch somewhere, possibly lookinh like a light switch that appears to do nothing (i.e. not turn a light on or off) and try that. Or ask the landlord to show you where the boost switch is.

Is this interior or exterior cladding? I too may have this issue. I have opted to leave my plant room in bare OSB. I have a feeling the BCO will want something painted on it. I know such a "something" exists as I wired whole house finished in OSB and that was passed once "something" was painted on it, that still left it looking like plain OSB.

Beware before buying any programable room stat. Read the instructions. We didn't and got lumbered with two that were battery powered, and forgot their programing every time the battery went flat.

I think you mean leeward? Windward means you are upwind of it so it won't fall on you. It won't immediately fall down when it dies and a responsible land owner would fell a dead tree long before it rots and becomes unsafe.

Chances are Ash Die back will see to that in due course. There's barely an Ash tree left alive up here now.

If you are going to do this, use crates to contain the stone and only do it on a straight run. My first house the developer (or the planners) decided resin bonded stones on the private road and parking spaces would be a good idea. At the point where the road turned, the stones just got scuffed off in no time leaving two bare strips where the car wheels went. The builder re did it twice and both time it did the same. I would have MUCH rather just had a tarmac road.

Replace it

As much as I like Aico, for the ease of installation and termination, if I can find another make that has a CO alarm to match the heat and smoke alarms I will be choosing that instead. (if anyone knows such a make....?)

the only mains powered aico CO alarms I can find are these https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei261enrc-mains-powered-co-alarm/ https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei225en-carbon-monoxide-alarm/ Neither are what I would describe as round. the only round one seems to be this https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei208dw-carbon-monoxide-alarm/ which is battery powered

Hi and welcome to the forum. Sounds like an ideal project. Start at the basics of what you want, and work from there.

What annoys me though, is you can't find a CO and a smoke detector that look the same, i.e Aico smoke and heat detectors re round, but their CO detectors are rectangular. WHY?

Call me old fashioned, but to me, a flexi is only for a situation where there is movement between the two items, e.g a heat pump t avoid vibration. they are not a means to join 2 fixed items. People use them all the time to connect to sat a WC cistern, but they use them to avoid accurate fixed plumbing?

In the old days, it was a function built into a sky box. the later versions of the sky HD box dropped it, but it was still available as a plug in option. It would not surprise me to find it's gone completely from the Sky Q box. I use a Powermid. I bought it many year ago from CPC. years ago but it does not seem to be available any more. All they have is this one http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg03706/infrared-extender/dp/AV21827?ost=remote+control+extender&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch The great thing about the powermid is you can have any number f transmitters and one receiver. The receiver sat in the room with all the AV kit and I had 3 transmitters in 3 different rooms. Some Powermid's still available on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xpowermid.TRS0&_nkw=powermid&_sacat=0

My satellite tv box will live in my media cupboard under the stairs and will connect to the tv with a 10 metre long hdmi cable, and a wireless IR remote control extender so all the stuff in the cupboard can be controlled from both living rooms.

Contest it with your building inspector and ask him to show you where it says it needs to be accessible. Are they classing your games room as an "apartment"? I had an issue with the last house where they tried to tell me the landing must have an 1100mm high handrail. I contested it so my BC inspector said they would clarify it with the Scottish Government. Many weeks later they confirmed it indeed did only need to be 900mm high.

I believe each floor needs an "accessible" bathroom, hence the door width.

One use for spare Cat5/6 cables is to cater for "unknown" cable types. e.g when I wired my last house, hdmi had not been invented, but two cat5's and an adaptor would do that.

This question is a bit like "do you like marmite"? I am definitely a "copper" man.

Commissioning = turn it on. Well that's all I did. Make sure the air blower is blowing bubbles and when "waste" enters, a corresponding amount comes out the other end. Mine has been in proper use now since April and still discharging nice clean water. I take it you have at least filled it with fresh water?

It does not mention Scotland, but I KNOW prices here are still not back to 2007 levels, let alone those levels allowing for inflation. And I have said before, a self builder here would do very well indeed to sell his house and just get back what he has spent.

The reason I asked is to do with ease of fitting. If they made the frame with the PIR insulation it would likely be machine cut and a good fit. If you are fitting it, then it is a lot harder to cut by hand and get a perfect fit. So for DIY fit, the frametherm has many advantages. It is flexible enough to compress a little, so cut a few mm over size and push it in. It is then stiff enough to stay put. As already noted the frametherm will have a better decrement delay. My own build has 190mm of frametherm 35 and 100mm of wood fibre board over the outside of the frame. Adding it all up, render, wood fibre, frametherm filled frame, OSB, service void, plasterboard gives a U value of 0.14.

Use 75 owm satellite coax, something like RG6. But be warned it comes in many variants. The best being copper foil and copper braid. the cheaper ones are aluminium foil. You don't want a "booster" you want a "distribution amplifier" that adds very little gain, other than to ensure the signal does not get weaker by being split several times

Are you buying a package of frame with insulation fitted, or buying the frame and fitting the insulation yourself?

I paid my builders to supply materials, build the frame, and erect it. They also did the foundations (though I did the digging, they just poured the concrete and did all the under building) I wanted an all in package so they could do the job VAT free. If I had supplied the materials, I would not have been able to reclaim the VAT until the end. I never did actually get a price from any other firm as there were not many that would do the insulation levels I wanted. But based on several on here that have used MBC, I probably paid a little more than they would have charged. I suspect my frame and erect price was higher than that estimate, but I am pretty sure my total cost will be less. I am still expecting to complete for £1000 per square metre.