ProDave

SLOAP to me at least = a lawn, or what most people want from a garden, a flat space to do stuff. i don't see the point in a garden so planted up there is no space to actually do anything. Or have I got the wrong end of what "space" you are referring to?

I too was shafted by a lender in the past. We previously had a buy to let flat with small mortgage from Lloyds. Had been a customer of theirs for years, had a mortgage for 20 years with no arrears. We wanted to update the flat, new windows, new doors, new kithchen and bathroom. Applied for an extra measly £5K on the mortgage. Yes sir that will be fine. It doesn't take long, about 2 weeks, come back when you need the money. We ordered the windows, paid the deposit. The window company called to say 3 weeks, so we went to Lloyds to make the arrangements. The computer blew a raspberry. "You no longer meet out lending criterea" Long story short, we borrowed the money instead on a 0% credit card. Rolled it over onto another. It was paid off in 4 years with no interest charges (but a small admin fee for each advance) So it in fact cost us less in the end. But if they were the last bank standing, I would not give ANY of my banking business to any of the Lloyds group again. Absolutely shocking way to treat a long standing customer with a good trading history with them over such a small amount.

The angle beads are for corners, I don't think that relates to the render thickness, but how much the bead goes round the corner each way. The 10mm stop beads yes I think that is the render thickness where it stops. The bell cast beads, it's normal for the render to thicken at the bottom to cause the water to drip off away from the wall. The expansion bead, that it the thickness of the expansion gap I believe.

Ar the time, I discussed it with the BC officer. Yes his opinion was the flat bit would have to be 600mm wide, otherwise the detector would be less than 300mm from a "corner" That's when he agreed it could go on the gable wall, as long as the manufacturer also said that was okay, which Aico did. I suspect it is very much open to interpretation between different BC inspectors.

It's more complicated than that. Also more than 300mm from a corner. In my case and the one I did previously, the flat bit at the top of the vaulted ceiling was not wide enough to put it 300mm from a corner. We could have put it on one side, but that would have looked silly, hence why we decided on the upright gable wall.

Any room with a combustion appliance, e.g. WBS or boiler and any room the flue passes through must have a CO detector.

+1 to that. You also get the ludicrous situation where an item is listed, with postage specified as "Royal Mail" then you click the button to buy it, only to be told "Does not post to Scottish Highlands" I have even tried arguing "but you are using Royal Mail" to no avail.

Buy Aico alarms, and the remote test / silence button station. An alternative that I will be doing on a room with a vaulted ceiling, is to fit the smoke alarm on the vertical gable wall rather than a ceiling. Aico approve this and building control passed this in a house I wired a few years ago where we did this.

Here is my thoughts. All terminal vents want to be as wide open as possible, the theory being anything that restricts flow, could create noise. Although I have not done mine yet, that will be my starting point, all vents wide open, with perhaps those feeding the small bedroom closed down a bit to start with, and perhaps the second biggest bedroom closed down just a little because it has a very short run. A question that will affect balance no doubt. Do you balance the system with all doors closed, relying on the air gap under the doors, or do you balance it with all doors open?

That's looking very tidy indeed.

We chose top hung, so they only open outwards. You can open them all the way so the inside faces out, and the outside in, so you can clean the upstairs windows from inside. As I understand it, tilt / turn open inwards. Not the best idea when you have left a window open and a rain shower comes by? In the previous house we chose side hung, as that's what we had always had, and the idea of top hung to us back then just sounded odd, but now I would not choose anything else other than top hung. Again @JamesP Interesting how the prices vary so much. The quote we had, Internorm had a very slightly better Uw value than Rationel so if the prices are near identical that might sway it for Internorm?

Keep the weather out. While waiting for windows, all my openings were boarded up with OSB sheets

Another criticism with tape and fill, is you rely on the plasterboard being GOOD. One wall in our previous house, when the sun was just right (wrong?) you could see slight ripples in the board finish, which had I noticed I would have rejected that board. Plastering covers such imperfections.

Scrim tape is used at joints, which is a self adhesive sort of open woven tape. External corners are done with either metal or plastic beads. I have sort of come to a deal with him that I will pay for the upstairs, and we will then do a trade swap when it comes to the downstairs (he will be building a new house soon and will need an electrician. Yes it's the better finish we are wanting, this is supposed to be the long term house. It's not so much that taping and filling gives a poor initial finish, it just does not seem to last with screw head fills poping and corner joints having a habit of the tape lifting.

Plasterers are like hen's teeth round here. everyone just tapes and fills.

That's easy. Choose your door sizes, and allow for door liners each side. I think my door openings are 10mm bigger than that theoretical size to allow for packers to get it all square, which will be covered by the architrave.

I have my own scaffold. I have discussed that and all he wants is a small tower up the stairwell. All other rooms he will work from planks and trestles or hop ups. I have just had a look back in my book at the last house. We had that one taped and filled. That cost us £1290 to have the whole house taped and filled, that house used about 230 sheets of plasterboard, so £5.60 per sheet for taping. The price I have at the moment for plastering equates to £17 per board, so 3 times as much as taping (the taping cost would no doubt be higher now as this was 12 years ago)

Just to be clear, the boards are on. I am just comparing prices to get it plastered. And in my case that's not the floor area, that's the wall and ceiling area that needs plastering.

This all reminds me when I used to have a trade account at the Electric Centre. I went in for a load of lighting, mostly downlights and lamps. They didn't have half what I wanted, and when asked the price for what they had, I was gob smacked. I walked out the door, into toolstation accross the road, they had the whole lot I wanted for less than I was quoted at electric centre for half of it. Not been back to Electric centre since and my account with them has lapsed.

79 boards in fact. Allowing for wastage (very small actually) I arrived at 225 square metres. This is most of the upstairs only, less than half the total of the whole house. We want to get the bedrooms operational first so we don't have to sleep in the static caravan over winter. The price I have been quoted is nearly twice that per metre cost you mention. That's for one man and his mate. There are not many plasterers around these parts, 99% just tape and fill. He didn't say how long it would take, just the cost to do that much.

In a perfect world you are right. In my imperfect world I simply cannot afford doors and liners now, but need to get on. What do you mean by "messy edge"? The architrave will cover most sins? As long as he can lay down an even thickness skim I don't see an issue. If the lack of an "edge" means the skim changes thickness drastically and undulates, then I see a problem but would hope a good spread would get an even thickness coat.

I have 225 square metres of wall and ceiling plasterboarded. I am looking to get it plastered rather than taped and filled. What should I expect to pay labour only for that (I will disclose the price I was quoted later)

I hope you are over thinking. I am on the verge of getting plastered before the door liners are in (I can't afford the doors and liners at the moment) The plasterer didn't say "oh I can't do it until the door liners are in"

Different insulation I know, but nobody has come close to the prices I got from SIS

I must admit I am seeing a room that has so many angles and bits jutting out, I don't know where I would put the bed. Is a solution to the overbearing wall to not take it all the way to the vaulted ceiling, instead finish it at a normal 2.4 metres and create a flat mezanine space above the en-suite?