ProDave

Up here, an "accessible entrance" needs to be 1 metre wide So that would leave you 5 metres to build on.

The "West Wing" extends further south than the main south elevation. This will mean the living room looses direct sunlight earlier in the day. I would "flatten out" the south elevation, though that is a radical re design. The garage is too short for a car. You need to combine the utility room to make the garage big enough and find somewhere else for the utility room.

Just to add another perspective. If you hit financial issues run out of money, don't just throw in the towel and give up. We were banking on the sale of out old house to complete the new one, but that never happened. As soon as I realised that was unlikely to happen I laid off the builder (amicably I am glad to say). Since then I have been doing all the work myself, to make what remained of the pot go as far as possible without spending it paying for labour. We are now down to just spending as we earn though some more funds should become available soon. The end result is the new house will have cost a lot less, but taken a lot longer, and when the old house eventually sells we will be better off.

That's a bit of a bugger. One way you could reduce the cost would be for the cable to come off the road into the front garden of your existing bungalow and from there across the front garden close to the road. You (or your chosen contractor) could dig the trench for that bit, and it would reduce the length of road or path to be dug up.

I did my roof with fibreglass valleys. Another cost missing from the estimates above, is stripping off some tiles to expose the valley, replacing any rotten battens, and putting the tiles back.

Hi and welcome to the forum. If you want to start a blog, you need @recoveringacademic or @PeterW to enable that for you. Otherwise just to ask questions, start a new thread in the relevant section of the forum.

Your problem is the amount of road to dig up, very expensive (I paid £1K just for the road crossing across a 3 metre wide single track road) You need to find out WHY they need to run the cable so far. If it is capacity issues ask just what rating supply they can give you from the existing infrastructure. It's not a matter of the condition od the existing cables, but their size.

Chip away from the inside to enlarge the hole. Drop a rope out through the hole. attach the face plate, with copious amounts of sealant applied. Pull rope, face plate pulls up to hole. Retain tension until sealant dried. Cut rope and push the end out.

Can you get to speak to the surveyor that made up the quote. It could be the existing cable is at full capacity? Or did you tick the wrong box and and ask for 3 phase, or an unusually high capacity supply? (I was "offered" a 12KVA supply and chose to accept that, as I just knew if I wanted more I would be hit with a cost for upgrading the local transformer)

The DL is in 2 parts now, the paper bit (that seems to last forever) and the plastic bit with your photo that needs renewing every few years. Which bit did you send off for the change of address? Would the hire firm not have accepted the other bit?

The controls are indeed different. For a system boiler you would expect a couple of motorised valves, a pump, a programmer a wiring centre and you would connect it the way you always had, and it would work. I think the trouble with heat pumps, is they are all so individual, not much cominality between makes. My own, the control box lives inside, connected to the heat pump with a 4 core cable. As well as plumbing in the usual valves and pumps, mine has a flow switch to connect (it will refuse to run if there is no flow detected) It also wants control of the immersoin heater in the HW tank, and a few other details. Nothing complicated but it needs a bit of reading of the manual and applying that.

Connecting a monoblock ASHP is really no different to connecting an outside system boiler. Most plumbers would be more confident pricing for that.

The planning can be locked in once you have "started" the development. there is then usually no rime limit on completing it. What constitutes "starting" will be individual to each site, but in our case we had a planning condition that the entrance to the site must be formed prior to building work started. I had a letter confirming that once I had created that entrance, the development had "started" so If I wanted to bail out, I could have sold it then with no fear of the planning lapsing. I suspect in any scenario where you are selling a part built house, you would be lucky if the sale price recovered the plot price plus what you had spent.

My only though, is if you bring to the attention of BC that there might be "voids" in the concrete fill of the blocks, then you re opening a huge can of worms, if Mr BC wants to be picky? Find a solution without him?

Buy a digger, learn to drive it and dig your own foundations. Go on, you know you want to......

Scotframe were the company that refused to talk to me when I started mentioning getting one of their standard offerings and increasing the amount of insulation...... Their exact waffle was "there is no synergy between what we offer and what you want"

Tell him I'll give him £600 for the SB

I am pretty sure this was the one I bought from Germany https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-Rollen-proclima-TESCON-VANA-All-round-Kle-be-band-30-Mtr-x-60-mm/381452848613?hash=item58d05c8de5:g:DG0AAOSwwbdWMxxx Be careful when comparing roll prices between one manufacturer and another. The Tescon is 30 metre rolls, some others are only 20 metre.

Originally the design was for the OSB joints to be taped and the OSB to be the airtight layer, but I decided a proper air tight membrane was better. Some of the OSB did get taped first before I made that decision but I consder that a waste of tape.

Mine is between the OSB and the batten that forms the service void.

Check it's weight. If less than 200Kg per square metre, buy some of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EX-DEMO-Versadock-Low-Profile-Floating-Pontoon-2m-x-1-5m-VERSADOCK-APPROVED/292409877779?hash=item4414fca513:g:aIcAAOSwxKBZisXi Do you need PP to have a cabin / houseboat floating on your lake?

Hi and welcome to the forum. It sounds like an interesting project, probably best not to divulge the exact location until you have secured it, if not done so already.

If you go to one of the established TF suppliers, chances are they will do the building warrant submission for a very reasonable price. If you are happy with a "standard" timber frame construction that may well be the best approach to this. We wanted something a bit better and none of the standard TF companies would do anything other than their standard make up, one even refused to talk to us. So we employed an archtectural technician and structural engineer to design it all and then got a local firm of builders to build it. Building control are a whole lot easier to deal with than planning. If they encounter an issue they will talk to you and work out a resolution, they will not normally just reject it. They will hapily give you a list of items that need to be altered and you just work at it until that list all gets ticked off. You will need to know the heating system for the design SAP assesment but you can change it later as long as the as built SAP is still a pass. If you make too many changes as you build it, then BC may want an amended "as built" set of drawings at the end.

My wood shed at the old house has those (from B&Q perhaps theirs are better?) and after nearly 10 years they are still fine (outlived the roof felt on the other shed) with no sag. Supported horizontally every 2ft.

Ah rack and pinion or lead screw?