ProDave

If it were a (Telford) Tempest the ports would be labelled and I am sure they would have their name on it I can't see it is any use to me as a hot water tank as I really want an UVC not a thermal store (thermal store needs a hotter temperature to get a decent amount of hot water capacity so not really suitable) I am wondering if it has a future as a heating buffer tank. I had been planning an indirect tank for the heating buffer so I only have a small circuit filled with antifreeze circulating water from the heat pump to the cylinder(s) Any thoughts on using this as a heating buffer and using a plate heat exchanger between the small heat pump circuit and the larger thermal store volume? I guess that would need a circulating pump on the thermal store side of the PHE?

I was also reading on another thread of an Economy 2000 tariff, that gives 18 hours of off peak per day at the times of the suppliers choosing but with a guarantee that there would be no more than 2 hours between off peak periods. Aimed at people using electric storage boilers which could easilly be an air source heat pump and decent buffer tank)

So all the various top and bottom ports just connect to the store volume as simple as that? There is also one immersion heater, and 2 thermostat pockets one near the bottom, one half way up. Any idea from the size what volume it might be?

I had a similar question from BC "How am I going to fireproof the walls of my wood shed" It turned out because I had shown the wood shed right up to a boundary it needed fireproofing. I solved it by moving the wood shed 1M from the boundary. I assume they are concerned with fire proofing of doors and windows?

On a job I am working on. This is the hot water tank used on conjunction with a wood pellet stove. The whole system is about to be ripped out and this tank may be going begging. I am trying to work out exactly what it is, and can I do anything useful with it. First off, I cannot find a manufacturers name anywhere on it. It measures 22" diameter and 65" tall It is clearly unvented. Almost all of the ports are not labelled. To the left connects the wood pellet Boiler. Just 2 pipes one top and one bottom go to the boiler and nowhere else. At the back a top and bottom port connect to what I believe is the flow and return to the radiators (via a pump) An additional top port connects to a 50L expansion vessel, an over pressure relief valve and a fill loop. The only 2 ports that are labelled are "hot" and "cold" that appear to be fed with mains cold water and output via a thermal mixing valve. I believe the black thing is a tiny expansion vessel? it has a Schroeder valve on the top. The ONLY label on the tank is this one so I don't even know it's capacity My thinking is it must be a thermal store (the hot / cold and blending valve looks like an output loop to me) or some kind of tank within a tank arrangement? The thing that puzzles me is if it is a thermal store, then it's the first unvented thermal store I have ever seen.

You would definitely need PP to keep that as a holiday let. We "negotiated" to keep ours after the build. Initially the planners were only going to give temporary PP for the static 'van, which is their standard policy. When I pointed out that on the day of completion, I could remove the 'van from the site, and then immediately replace it with an identical one in an identical location, and it would qualify as a garden outbuilding under permitted development, they then changed the planning permission to "habitational use of the caravan shall cease upon occupation of the house" So while I can lawfully keep my static 'van as a studio and workshop, I cannot let it. That would require PP which would be unlikely to be granted.

The 4KW WBS is keeping our static 'van warm, and keep on chopping wood for it is keeping me warm.

If we are only talking of acoustic insulation between floors I would just cut the required hole in it to be safe. It's only where it is heat insulation and a VCL that downloght become a pain.

It looks a bit like this

I thought one of the reasons given for the "golden brick" thing is it was the only way to supply services to the plot VAT free. Personally I would rather have a bit more freedom and pay the VAT on the services.

One thing I noticed in the picture of the HM box is the "boiler demand" is not connected. The boiler demand would in this case normally turn on a circulating pump and possibly open a motorised valve to allow heat to go from the tank tot he UFH.

I have always thought these grants and renewable initiatives only benefit the installers who can charge such a premium because they are the ones holding a special ticket to allow them to claim the subsidy.

I have already said, what will ultimately be our 28 square metre garden workshop and studio cost a shade over £4K

In this case it was shoddy workmanship as well. This was an old lath and plaster house. A section of lath and plaster wall had been taken down in the process of opening 2 rooms into one. I could not believe they had cut down the L&P wall in between studs and butted a bit f PB up to it. As well as asking for the sheet to be left portable I also suggested they cut the L&P back to the stud to make the joint there. So not only did they fix it and skim it before I was ready, they left a joint flapping in mid air and skimmed over it. What's the betting that joint is going to crack. I would not let those particular joiners anywhere near my house.

Give that information to whoever quoted you for a 17KW heat pump and ask them to re think. My max heat input is 2.5KW and I have a 5KW ASHP (not installed yet)

And you will find the same question now on another forum you know. I am reluctant to start stripping it unless someone actually says yes you can do it, even if they say it is a bugger of a job. I am sure it is the inner bearing that has failed, and on that link, that is no longer available, but I am hoping it is just a standard bearing and a bearing supplier like bearing boys would be able to supply it once I can either find a number on it or measure it's sizes. At least the seal is available as a spare part.

I was surprised when I opened the machine to find a date sticker telling me it was made in 2006. I didn't realise we had had it that long, though I knew it was more than 5 years so no hope of any form of guarantee. Unlike any previous washing machine we have had, this one up until now has been totally reliable, and it still looks like new, so I feel it is worth a try, though once I bite the bullet and start stripping it down, if id does prove unrepairable then I have effectively killed it. So I might delay the strip down until it gets somewhat worse. It is still working but now very noisy on it's spin cycle due to the worn bearing.

I can't see why this would be a problem, though I have to ask how is the floor going to be supported? normally the joists get built in as you go up?

I too am awaiting a new EE mast in line if sight to our house. I hope that too does not end up ESN only.

I don't want to lower the tone.

Some tradesmen just cannot work with others. On a recent job I asked for a sheet of plasterboard to be left portable as I still has some wiring to do. 2 hours later I fins it fixes and skimmed. Ignorant twit

Not hired one but my insurance does cover hired plant.

I have a Daewoo direct drive washing machine model DWD-G1441S The drum bearings are on their last legs. Ir replacement feasible or even possible? I have taken the motor rotor off for a look. I can see the outer bearing and the drum shaft. It looks like a bit of a major strip down to gain access to split the drum outer casing. Then what? First thing would be to push the shaft through and withdraw the drum How do I do that? just hit the shaft with a hammer? Then if I manage that how do I get the bearings out? I assume there will be 2. How tight will they be? can I drive them out with a hammer and a bar? I can't see as I can apply heat as the drum outer casing is plastic. Any thoughts as to whether this is possible if somewhat difficult, or not?

Just a thought. If the UFH drains all the heat out od the tank in under 2 hours, then ultimately you want to end up with the boiler AND the UFH only operating when it is on the cheap rate. Tht should leave the store full of hot water for the taps (when you sort out how to get that working) and on the asumption the house is well enough insulated that you won't notice the heating being off for up to 2 hours.

Re the High Ze thing. That is the suppliers responsibility to correct at their expense. It should not normally exceed 0.35 for the type of supply that you have. The high value of Ze you have is directly responsible for one of the fails on the EICR that they had to get around by changing a circuit breaker.