Jump to content

ProDave

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    30741

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    426

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ProDave

  1. ProDave
    With no live load (just dead load) mine at 4.8 metres are dead flat as far as I can tell. I don't know if they were pre cambered or not. I have to say, yours look very thin. Mine are 100mm wide each, probably more like the two either side of your fireplace that are presumably thicker to take the extra weight of the pair in front of the fireplace.
  2. ProDave
    Wasn't there a thread about putting these through a garden shredder to make your own "blown in" insulation?
  3. ProDave
    We have a concrete parking slab next to the garage (which will eventually be covered with a car port) The builders were concerned rainwater might end up sitting against the garage wall. So they made a cast in place drain "groove" by setting a piece of pvc gutter into the concrete while it was still wet, weighted down with stones, and tapered so it was deeper at the back where it will drain off. There was no need for plastic sheet or anything. Once the compo had set, the pvc gutter lifted out leaving a very neat channel. I can't post a picture as it's currently under 4" of snow.
  4. ProDave
    Since we got PP and put the static caravan on site, I think the Council tax valuer visited almost every month. When we did finally move into the 'van and phone him, he said "let me get the file. Ah I see I have photographs of your 'van, and I have visited the site 17 times" It would not surprise me if he is still visiting every month to look through the windows and see if the house is "ready" to start charging council tax on that.
  5. ProDave
    You would be paying a lot for extra blockwork and labour and a thicker than needed block wall adds very little extra to the insulation. What is the wall make up in this proposed build? i.e. what goes on the inside of the blocks or is it "plaster on the hard" and what goes on the outside? Where and what type of insulation?
  6. ProDave
    This any good? http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00324/tool-cart-300kg/dp/TL1058087?ost=tl1058087&ddkey=http%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch Or a bit cheaper but more lightweight http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d01982/plastic-dolly/dp/TL1489787?ost=tl1489787&ddkey=http%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch If you really must make your own, it won't be a lot cheaper http://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=castor
  7. ProDave
    Hi and welcome The only thing I would caution against is designing the house before you have a plot. You need to know the size and shape, orientation, views, restrictions, not overlooking neighbours etc before you can design what will work for that site. But of course fill a scrap book with ideas while looking.
  8. ProDave
    That's about spot on @recoveringacademic All I would add is the type that SBS sells, with a dual busbar is better as you don't have the flying neutral lead from each rcbo to terminate. Point your sparky to SBS so he can see for himself. Having said that my board is all Hager rcbo's with the flying lead.
  9. ProDave
    I think you would struggle to get airtight tape down into that narrow gap. I would stick the vcl down and stick the hood in place with something like "sticks like...." then foam around the hood with expanding foam, leaving the top of the hood exposed. Assuming LED lamps no heat problems. Make sure you seal the cable entry into the hood.
  10. ProDave
    I have stated my view several times, that I think it is worth it as a cheap DIY install and not claiming the FIT. I am no longer convinced it is worth paying the premium for an MCS registered company to install them in order to claim the FIT. My model relies on you being able to use near 100% of what you generate, be that gig appliances in the daytime, excess dumped to water heating or even battery storage.
  11. ProDave
    How "textured" I would be interested to see that exact definition. Do the planners want a sample of the finish? I know Rationel offer a slightly textured finish and gave us some samples that could be shown to the planners to ensure their acceptance? You would have to ask them though if they do curves.
  12. ProDave
    I don't think the fire is the issue. It's simply providing the required room ventilation depending on it's size. If you employ a FENSA supplier to self certify you do not even need to notify BC.
  13. ProDave
    Yes it's normal for your electrician to issue an EIC before they will give a temporary habitation certificate.
  14. ProDave
    Looking again those strong backs look a bit small. Ours just abut fill the gap between the top and bottom chord.
  15. ProDave
    Up here, you can get a "certificate of temporary habitation" that legally allows you to move into an unfinished house as long as it is basically functional. That also qualified it to be accepted for a normal insurance policy, and is also valid proof of completion for a VAT refund. Do English BC not offer something similar?
  16. ProDave
    I suspect in that picture they are not yet fixed. You have to slot them in at that stage as it will be impossible later, but mine were not actually fixed to the joists until some time later. Is it possible that someone forgot to attach them?
  17. ProDave
    Katzbeck was one that I got a quote from. Others were Internorm, Rationel,. Russel Timbertech, Nordan and a local supplier Treecraft. For me, Rationel were the cheapest and second best by a very small margin. Only Internorm offered slightly better Uw values but were twice the price of Rationel. There was at least one other supplier who's name I forget that others here have used, but they only do supply and fit, and they didn't cover Scotland.
  18. ProDave
    I would run that past the structural engineer. Take the lid off and fill with concrete or just compacted hardccore in layers thus not disturbing any more ground than you have to?
  19. ProDave
    Unless you are needing to put a new treatment plant in exactly the same place, I would just get it pumped out (deslusged) and fill it in with something.
  20. ProDave
    Point me to a reg that says the isolator for a cooker hood has to be accessible in the same way as the isolator for an under unit dishwasher. 99.9% of cooker hood isolators I find are above the wall units off to one side. Most customers don't want switch clutter. They moan enough about having a DW switch, a hood switch joining the row would go down like a lead balloon. My question is where does that hood extract to?
  21. ProDave
    ^^ I was going to ask that. It also looks like the one sided joists are spanning the same gap as the rest of the normal ones. I know I am no expert, but I have never seen posi joists with the metal webs only fitted to one side. Is the floor bounce the ones in the corner that are one sided? or the ones in line with the chimney?
  22. ProDave
    You don't "need" to. But I just like us all having an ermail address myname@housename
  23. ProDave
    Registered that domain name yet? it was a part of the name decision for both the new and previous house that a sensible domain name was available for it and several potential names were ruled out for that reason.
  24. ProDave
    Mine was "free" The structural engineer paid a site visit, I dug a number of test pits with my own digger, with the SE stopping me at various points (whenever the soil type changed) to take measurements of depth and have a look and feel of what was coming out of the hole.
  25. ProDave

    Hi

    ProDave replied to tilpol's topic in Introduce Yourself

    LPG cylinders are expensive enough here on the mainland. I expect add the transport cost and they will be eye watering on the island. What do most do for heating? I expect solid fuel to play a big part but doubt there are enough trees to provide much wood?
×
×
  • Create New...